ABS Pump Motor Failure Questions

[sluhbmet]

My wifes 2005 V70 was giving the "ABS/ANTI-SKID SERVICE REQUIRED" message so I got out my Vadis and interface module to read the codes. Found DTC's BCM-0070 and BCM-0072 indicating a problem with the ABS pump assembly. I removed the BCM electronics module and tested the the two spade pins that provide power to the pump motor. After verifying the bias voltage was present (~9 volts) across the spade pins, I placed a load across them and performed the pump activation procedure using the Vadis software. The reading across the pins went to ~12 volts (battery voltage) and the attached load activated. So it looks like I just need to replace the pump motor itself. However, I do have a couple of questions?

Question #1
When removing the BCM electronics module, I noticed that the spade pins that power the pump motor were saturated in brake fluid clear down to the o-ring seal on the post. Is this normal?

Question #2
What is the newest year of pump motor that will work with my car? Since I just need the pump motor itself, I'd really like to buy a used assembly (valve body and electronics module don't have to be the same) from a newer/low mileage vehicle that will most likely have alot of life left in it. It just needs to have the same motor.

Sluhbmet

[sluhbmet]

Since I didn't get any replies to my questions above, I decided to remove the pump motor to see how brake fluid was getting to the spade pins that supply power to the motor. I've attached a pic that shows the brake fluid pooled up in the pump manifold bearing well and also covering the top surface of the pump manifold. Brake fluid even poured out from inside the motor housing and it also invaded the motor power port hole (as mentioned in previous post). I was able to clean the fluid from the manifold surface and bearing well with a light amount of brake cleaner. I also removed the ABS electronics module from underneath the manifold and cleaned the motor power pins. I had my wife press on the brake pedal several times while I rotated the bearing and actuated the pump pistons inside the bearing well. To my suprise I was unable to see any brake fluid leaking into the well. After most of the fluid was drained out of the pump motor, I sprayed inside the motor housing with contact cleaner until all of the brake fluid was removed. After allowing time for the contact cleaner to evaporate, I connected the motor to a 12 volt battery. Much to my surprise the motor actually ran, and ran well. I re-installed the motor onto the pump manifold and re-assembled the car. After clearing all fault codes using Vadis and activating the pump and valves, I took the car for a 20 minute test drive and all went well. So far the ABS system is functioning normally according to Vadis. I think after a week or two of daily driving, I'll probably remove the pump motor and check for signs of brake fluid leaking into the bearing well again. If so, I'll try to repair (most likely replace) the pump manifold. Until then we'll just drive the car and enjoy the dash "NOT" displaying any ABS\Anti-Skid error messages.

Sluhbmet

[abscate]

Im guessing the brake fluid is spillage from overfilling the reservoir, or just spillage.

Have you had a brake job done my McGilla Tire and Brake in the past few years?

No need to disassemble. Just a put a sharpie marker on your fluid level when stopped and level, and monitor for dropping. It should take months to drop even 1mm.

[oragex]

There should be no trace of brake fluid coming out from that hole of the valve body. Wrong brake fluid may have to do something with the issue, perhaps some seals inside the valve body are worn. Under the pressure of the brake booster, fluid gets his way past the worn seals, out by the two small pistons that press against the bearing, then leak onto the two electric pump contacts and cause a short ? Plus the bearing must have some grease on it which is surely gone by now with the brake fluid leak.

Surely not worth asking Volvo for a price, a used valve body should do the trick. Perhaps matching the numbers, or at least getting it from a car with the same either STC or DSTC system as yours.

While there, I'd make sure the silicone seal at the bottom of the pump is well seated into it's groove (just depress it with a finger nail), it usually pops out when the pump is removed.

[sluhbmet]

I've located a "supposedly" good complete unit (electronics module, pump manifold and pump motor) for $100 from a local import salvage yard. I'll probably just buy it if the numbers match up correctly and the mileage on the car isn't too ridiculous.

After pondering the fluid leak issue overnight, I got to thinking that the only time to realistically have a chance of seeing brake fluid seep back into the bearing well, would be when the motor was turning and building pressure in the hydraulic circuit. Am I correct in my thinking? Either way, it doesn't really matter. At the end of the day the pump manifold will still need to be replaced. Hopefully a good used one will suffice.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience with bleeding the system after replacing the entire abs module? Do you need to use Vadis to open and close valves or run the pump motor? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. It seems like there would be lots of places for air bubbles to get lodged in the abs module. Thanks for any advise.

sluhbmet

[abcdetech]

Hi guys...I'm trying to solve BCM-0070 error. I will be replacing ABS pump motor. I went to a junk yard and picked up one, tested on 12V, seems it's spinning as expected.
On other threads there are a lot of How To info, no question here how to replace the motor.

My question is about part numbers. Do part numbers on the ABS motor should match?
My 2006 Volvo XC70 , sticker on the motor is with PN P30714952
Donor: 2009 (or 08 don't remember exactly) Volvo S60 , ABS pump motor with a sticker with P/N P30793444

I understand that ABS modules can not be swapped easily (programming required). I think P/Ns on ABS motors are matching to P/Ns on ABS unit,...but motors can be swapped easily with no issues. Am I correct?
Thanks

[abscate]

I don’t think ABS modules require software in car to be programmed but they have to match the STC OR DTSC options of course.

Pumps should be swappable.

[abcdetech]

Thank you abscate!

SOLVED

Swapped ABS motors from junk yard and everything is back to normal. ABS error is gone. I'm getting ABS-0103 Pedal position sensor. Faulty signal. I think I touched the connector when was swapping the motor, they are close to each other. But this is a different story, I'm sure I will find a solution on other threads.
Replacing the motor took me about an hour. All procedures explained here are correct. Installing a ring into the ABS is a PITA, but there are many how to videos on youtube. Somehow I managed to insert it.

BTW, dealership quoted me $2200 for ABS module which they don't have in stock, plus programing, plus labor to solve this problem.

I "think" programming is required if you swap entire ABS module; you need to tell ABS the ECU number so they can communicate to each other. But motors yeah are swapable with no problems.

Thanks to this forum and its members.

[Fernandomiguel]

Question
I have the same problem on a 2000 Volvo s70 Base
BCM 0070 Power Failure to the PUMP
in the picture i can see the pump motor removed
How do you remove the bracket that covers the screws to the PUMP
thank you so much
Nice article

[abscate]

You loosen the three Torx screws into the rubber bushings, then drop the whole unit below the bracket to access the screws.

It took me a while to reinstall the pump bearing into the housing when it came out. Try to stop they from happening by pulling the pump up slowly and straight