need input on ticking noise when cold??

glowbug · Post by **glowbug** » 22 Jan 2010, 18:37

thanks, I just swaped the oil today with full synthetic, 10w30 and I will keep an eye on it, I did notice today it got into the high 30's degrees outside and I did not hear the ticking as I normally do?? but this is Michigan and it will get cold again, I will keep and eye out and thanks for all the great info.

glowbug · Post by **glowbug** » 27 Jan 2010, 17:14

KAY! it is beyond cold, and it is doing it again, it almost souinds like the ticking is coming from the fuel rail/injectors, but again after it warms up or I accelarate it a bit it subsides.

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Jan 2010, 17:50

IS the noise you're hearing the injectors? They're extremely noisy on these cars, and sound almost like a ticking valve.

code-man850 · Post by **code-man850** » 28 Jan 2010, 08:59

Mine makes the same noise. I've been told that these motors have hydraulic valve lifters and it can take a little bit for the oil to reach them after the car has sat for some time.

Post by **phils94850** » 28 Jan 2010, 11:04

My 94 ticks pretty loud after its started and idleing for about 30sec. Id say i have some clogged lifters. After i start driving and the motor warms up the tick goes away completely.

Im planning on running a bottle of dexron thru it and see if i can get the lifters unclogged. ( old mechanics trick ). About the same as buying that engine flush stuff before you do an oil change.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Jan 2010, 11:06

Ever heard of the "Italian tune-up"?

Plus it gives you an excuse to drive like a maniac.

glowbug · Post by **glowbug** » 29 Jan 2010, 22:44

jablackburn wrote:IS the noise you're hearing the injectors? They're extremely noisy on these cars, and sound almost like a ticking valve.

Yes? possibly, or like the other post it might just be the lifters????
but I thought that it had over head cams? do they still utilise lifters?
it almost sounds like a lifter that has not yet been fully pressurized/filled with oil, and if it is a injector that it is causing it, it better not be a diesel one cause it sure sounds like one, I know this is not a 2010 Maybach but it is just really anoying, I will keep you posted as this car has sat some prior to me purchasing it, I have started taking it on 50 mile daily commutes, so hopefully it will strech it's legs a bit.
I also am feeling pretty confident and am going to attempt to take it on a trip to Florida, before I do ATF is in need of replacment, I have never done this, Swede shop in town wants $200 for it, anyone done one yet????

Post by **jblackburn** » 29 Jan 2010, 23:07

Changing the ATF is really a pretty easy process. You can do a full flush yourself for about $40-50 of fluid. I've done it on 3 separate occasions, I did a drain-and-fill twice, and a flush once. Once it warms up outside, I'll be flushing it again.

Take a look at this:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... php?t=8767

If you don't know the past history of whether this was done on the transmission, it is probably better to pull the plug, let all the fluid drain out, and then refill what came out of it. Drive for 50-100 miles, and then repeat the process again once or twice more until the fluid begins to look a pretty clear red color.

Definately use the Mann filter on it.

Let it warm up, then go floor the heck out of it...get the RPM's well into the 4-6 range for like 10 minutes and let it loosen up.

My car clicks a lot under very light acceleration between idle-1500 rpms, and it goes away after that. If you're still hearing ticking after that, the O-rings on the pickup lines in the oil pan may need replacing. They will clog and starve the lifters for oil a little bit at idle.

deltajets · Post by **deltajets** » 30 Jan 2010, 09:08

My car was doing the same thing when i first got it.After reading several posts on this subject I decided to check the oil pick up tube seals in the sump.The seals did not look bad but when I removed the bolts securing the pick up tube to the eng block the tube just fell out.there are several good write ups on how to do this job on this and other sites,just do a search.replacing these seals and the seals to the oil cooler(they are under the pan lip and come with the seal kit from fcp groton) solved my problem.As a side note if you do this job yourself you will find on the rt side of the car frame an "ear" or tab that gets in the way.most posts say to bend it out of the way,I just cut it off with a wheel and painted the exposed metal,as far as I can see it serves no purpose and dropping the pan is easier if its not there.Good luck.One last thing,I've also heard that in the area ofthe nmb 5 cylinder on these cars the oil passages can become gunked up.I don't know about sea foam but I've had good luck with a product called CD-4 in the past.I had a dodge wit noisy lifters and this fixed it for good(over 100,000 miles when I sold the car).

need input on ticking noise when cold??

Re: need input on ticking noise when cold??