850 turbo 1996 runs way to rich when cold
Re: 850 turbo 1996 runs way to rich when cold
I'M going to look into that cuz a guy at work says they make a kit that u can hook up to the shrader valve and run cleaner through them I changed them with used ones but that doesn't mean they aren't messed up.I've been around enough cars boats and busses to know that new or used parts can fail right away. I'm also gonna check to see if I'm getting gas in the vacuum hose on my fuel pressure regulator.
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bobsnow100
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If you pull off the vacuum line off the pressure regulator,smell it for gas. There shouldn't be any
I had a ford that had a bad pressure regulator and it sucked raw gas directly into the intake manifold. You would been getting a big white smoke cloud out of your exhaust pipe.
I had a ford that had a bad pressure regulator and it sucked raw gas directly into the intake manifold. You would been getting a big white smoke cloud out of your exhaust pipe.
i noticed today that white smoke was coming out of the exhaust while i was checking the live data on my scanner it was like when a car is warming up in the cold weather. when it gets a little warmer i will pull the fuel rail apart to check the regulator mean while im going to dump fuel injector cleaner in it to try to help it. i still wont rule out changing the throttle body but i will try checking the regulator first.
to bobsnow yes everything seems to point to the injectors doesnt it. i just hate to keep buying used injectors and getting bad ones. and buying new ones and not solving the problem would be a big waste of money maybe ill try the whole fuel rail off of my identical wagon before i buy anymore injectors new or used.
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jblackburn
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Excellent idea. Or pull one out at a time with a bucket in your hand and start the car. They should pulse, not shoot a straight stream of fuel.whole fuel rail off of my identical wagon before i buy anymore injectors new or used.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
You need to get over your fear and change the thermostat..Changing the ECT and not getting a new thermostat just doesn't make good sense..You will need a special torx wrench tool, I forget the size but its big and it has a 1/2 in drive on it...When the bolts break loose you will hear a loud snap, don't wet your pants its just normal..It's a good time to drain and fill your coolant since you may have to add some anyway..alexpia wrote:hi everyone, im new to this site as a member but i have always used it as a good reference for my volvos. anyway my 1996 850 turbo sedan runs really rich the colder it gets outside after sitting overnight and the temp guage takes a long time to get up to temp(3 0clock). i mean it runs so rich it misfires and i can smell raw gas from the exhaust until it gets to operating temp. it runs fine when the weather is warm but not as good as my identical wagon. ive changed the ect, the iac, the cap plugs wires vacuum elbows,tcv did a compession test got 140 lbs in no 1 cyl and 150 in the other five. does anyone think maybe the thermostat could be staying open causing the computer to think the engine is cold? im a bus mechanic by trade so im not stupid and used to work on cars for a living. this car is driving me nuts. its been like this since i bought it. i havent changed the thermostat for the fear of breaking the bolts plus it 25 degrees right now in connecticut the car has 226000 for miles and isnt in too bad of shape any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Wow 226k miles, gotta laugh..I bet there's just a clump of metal sitting where your thermostat used to be.alexpia wrote:hi everyone, im new to this site as a member but i have always used it as a good reference for my volvos. anyway my 1996 850 turbo sedan runs really rich the colder it gets outside after sitting overnight and the temp guage takes a long time to get up to temp(3 0clock). i mean it runs so rich it misfires and i can smell raw gas from the exhaust until it gets to operating temp. it runs fine when the weather is warm but not as good as my identical wagon. ive changed the ect, the iac, the cap plugs wires vacuum elbows,tcv did a compession test got 140 lbs in no 1 cyl and 150 in the other five. does anyone think maybe the thermostat could be staying open causing the computer to think the engine is cold? im a bus mechanic by trade so im not stupid and used to work on cars for a living. this car is driving me nuts. its been like this since i bought it. i havent changed the thermostat for the fear of breaking the bolts plus it 25 degrees right now in connecticut the car has 226000 for miles and isnt in too bad of shape any help would be appreciated. thanks.
I changed the thermostat last week I soaked the bolts in penetrating oil and brake fluid and was surprised that the bolts did not break. I didn't use a Volvo thermostat cuz I got it out on a Sunday. I waited to buy one cuz I wanted to see what one was in it it was a 192 so I replaced it with a 192. Yesterday I put my scan tool on the car when I started it up and watched the the temp. It was 28 degrees on my trip computer the scantool said the engine temp was 32 right when I started it. I let it run and warm up and watched the temp rise as it warmed up. It rose to 192 and stayed there so the computer is reading the right temp so I would believe that the ect and thermostat are giving the computer the right info or it would seem. My next move I think will be to pull the injectors and see if they pulse. Do the injectors recieve their pulse from the cam or crank sensor or straight from the computer? I'm looking at a fuel rail and regulator and injectors from and 850r for 35 bucks just to try the whole system and see if it improves I kind of don't want to dismantle my wagon cuz it ain't broke. But once again I will be taking a chance with used parts and it's hit or miss. Aren't 850r injectors rated at a different pressure? Can they be substituted?
Wow, All I can add is that the ECT and 02 sensors are your main fuel controls..You said you replaced the ECT, If your 02 is dead the computer may be overcompensating and making your car run rich..I didn't see anything saying you have tested your 02 sensor to see if it is dead. Vacuum leaks can cause havok but usually will throw a code..A dead 02 sensor does not always a code unless the heater element fails then it will throw a code every time.alexpia wrote:i finally was able to get the thermostst changed in my car i soaked the bolts for weeks with penetrating oil and brake fluid. they came right out it took awhile to get the job done cuz it was cold here. anyway no change. the car still runs bad the colder it gets outside it was 30 degrees the other day and it ran ok. but today it is 17 degrees and it ran really bad. it used a quarter of a tank of gas to go five miles. after driving it the five miles and shutting it down for about ten minutes the temp guage still read 3 oclock when i restarted, it ran about 80 percent better and was actually drivable it seema as long as i dont let it sit overnight and completely cool down its ok. other than the ect is there something else that senses the outside temp? what controls the cold start on these cars? my other 96 turbo wagon has 287000 miles and has the same identical engine runs like brand new. the one that runs crappy was hit in the front before i owned it but i dont think that would cause a problem. anymore advice would be helpfull before i have to send it to a garage thanks.
i changed the front 02 sensor with an aftermarket direct fit within the the last 4 months. the rear one was changed in 07 by a used volvo dealership. i cant remember how many miles ago. but it wasnt alot cuz the owners of the car sold it to me in 08 and i havent put 7000 miles since i bought it i have the maintenence records with the car. possibly the rear one good be bad? my scantool only shows bank one sensor and the voltage stays pretty much the same until the engine or 02 sensor warms up then it starts fluctuating from high to low or vice versa. ive been told that is how it should operate but when the cel does come on it was for missfires after it warmed up and idled. i discovered that the canister purge valve was stuck wide open though i got no code i could hear it. it was stuck open so i replaced it with a brand new one from fcp groton. the missfire codes stopped. but every once in awhile i will get a front oxygen sensor low voltage input code when it is warmed up and idles. so i changed the 02 sensor with another new one ran it for awhile no change.the cel hasnt come on since i changed the thermostat but it probably will. the old thermostat was hard to push open and it took until 220 degrees to open cuz i put it in water on the stove and checked the temp with a thermometer220 is when it started to open so it was probabably part of the problem. i ended up buying the 850r injectors rail and regulator i saw on ebay. figured ill try it dont have much to lose at this point
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