Today I started the v40 1.9td and reversed. I selected 1st and looked to drive off. There was a big tick tick tick tick sound coming from the central console (to the left of the radio). This stopped when I pressed the recirculating air button. When I released it the ticking started again after 15 seconds or so. This ticking started on the key turn, but did not speed up with the engine. Later in the day, the ticking stopped, but when I got home, I noticed my passenger (left hand) headlights were out. So were the daytime running side lights.
I reckon a relay has died today, the ticking was death throws and then it died and the lights failed.
According to my Haynes comic (petrol cars only), there should be one relay for both headlights- surely both lights should be out?
Anyone else had this?
tick tick tick tick...headlight out...relay
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alfonzobonzo
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 15 February 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Devon
i think the ticking your describing is a faulty recirc air solenoid
do a search on this forum, ive read about this here before
do a search on this forum, ive read about this here before
480 L 1994 2.0 i Metalic Black K&N Panel
V40 W 2000 1.9 T4 Metalic Black
V40 W 2000 1.9 T4 Metalic Black
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JohnP
I have seen this a couple of times in the forum but as yet have seen no solution. I have exactly the same problem - on start up on my S40 T4 there is a loud ticking noise (sounds like a relay) from behind the passenger side of the dash board. It goes for about ten time - stops briefly and then starts again for about ten times. The air circulatin and Air conditioning lights flash as well at this time (not sure if this is linked to the ticking problem). After a few seconds the lights go back to normal. There appears to be no problem with the Air Conditioning or lights - ie every thing seems normal. Any help would be very appreciated. I have also seen a similar post here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... elay+noise
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... elay+noise
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storci
Ticking you hear is the recirc vent motor. The valfe that looks like a trap door is located above the ventilation fan. If you remove the cover under the pasenger glowbox you will gain acces to the fan. (this is also the locaton of the ventilation filter). you culd see the recirc trap door if you would unscrew the 3 screws that hold the fan and pull the fan out. The motor that turns this is located on the front of the fan housing (on the outside). There is very litle place in there since it is located right behind of the dash board (the wall behind the glove compartment). I'm still trying to figure out how to get to it. I dont know if this is normal, but my dashboard is riveted in and I just cant take it off.
If anyone knows how to take it off, please tell me.
If anyone knows how to take it off, please tell me.
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storci
Since my last post I have identifyed the problem more deeply.
The problem is that a snail gear is pulled of the motor and it doasnt engage the gears properly. If you want to save some money you can fix this by yourself. You will have to dril 2 small holes in the dash behind the glove box. They will not be visible at all after you are done.
This is how you can do it:
1. First remove the dash bottom cover on the passenger side (two screws). 2. Unscrew two screws on the hinges of the glove compartment and remove the glove compartment.
3. Unscrew the 3 screws on the wall behind the glove compartment.
4. Pop out the round plastic plug on bottom of the dash on left side. And unscrew the 10mm screw behind it.
5. To gain acces to the same screw on the left of the passenger side you will have to unscrew and remove the lining on the left side of the middle console. Only one screw, it's easy to find.
6. After you have unscrewed the 10mm hex screw on the left side use flat screwdriver to pop off the metal bar you just unscrewed with the hex screws and push it aside or take it out completely. This will give you some extra room for your hands. Trust me, you will need it.
7. Now take a very short philipshead screwdriver, Pull the dash away so much that you can reach in from the right side under the side window air vent.
You should see the servo's plastic housing with a cable coming in from the top right and white plastic arm protrouding from the front left. This motor is secured with 3 screws. One on top right and two on the bottom left.
Find the top screw and unscrew it.
8. There is no room to unscrew the two bottom crews this way. You would have to take out the whole dash to do it properly, but you can do it this way.
Drill two holes in the top right corner of the wall behind the glove compartment. First one about a centimeter from the top and almost tight to the right wall (the only concern is, that you will still need room for the screwdriver handle when unscrewing the crew). Second hole should be about 3 cm to the left and at the same height. For the right possition of both holes, reach behind the dash and feel the screws. I used a 15mm router drilling bit just because it makes clean holes and I had ruber plugs that fitted the holes perfectly plus I was guessing the location of the screws so I figured this way I can get more manuvering space.
9. Now unscrew the two screws
10. Turn the white plastic arm a bit so that it dissengages the metal rod and pull out the servo.
11. On the servo housing you will find plastic clips that hold it together. Carefully pry them away and open the housing as far as you can. (be carefull. they are very easy to break).
12. There are 3 plastic gears in there plus a snal gear on the motor and the part that moves the arm. Try to figure out how they are assembled so that you will be able to put them back after. You might have some trouble getting the housing to open fully. This is because of the partial gear on the arm. it is cought behind another gear wich has to pass by the snail gear on the motor before it will pop open. Try to pry it apart but be carefull not to break anything.
13. After you have opened the housing you will notice, that the snail gear on the motor axle has been pulled off center. This is why the motor was just clicking. Push the gear back on so that it is in center of the gear wich engages it when assembled.
14. Now pull out the metal axels on wich the gears were and stick them in the holes of the lid. Reassemble all the gears and join the top and bottom parts. The clips will lock nicely if you did it properly.
15. reverse all the steps to reassemble.
P.S.: Dont worry about the alighnment of the arm. It will turn to the proper position when you engage the recirc button.
God luck!
The problem is that a snail gear is pulled of the motor and it doasnt engage the gears properly. If you want to save some money you can fix this by yourself. You will have to dril 2 small holes in the dash behind the glove box. They will not be visible at all after you are done.
This is how you can do it:
1. First remove the dash bottom cover on the passenger side (two screws). 2. Unscrew two screws on the hinges of the glove compartment and remove the glove compartment.
3. Unscrew the 3 screws on the wall behind the glove compartment.
4. Pop out the round plastic plug on bottom of the dash on left side. And unscrew the 10mm screw behind it.
5. To gain acces to the same screw on the left of the passenger side you will have to unscrew and remove the lining on the left side of the middle console. Only one screw, it's easy to find.
6. After you have unscrewed the 10mm hex screw on the left side use flat screwdriver to pop off the metal bar you just unscrewed with the hex screws and push it aside or take it out completely. This will give you some extra room for your hands. Trust me, you will need it.
7. Now take a very short philipshead screwdriver, Pull the dash away so much that you can reach in from the right side under the side window air vent.
You should see the servo's plastic housing with a cable coming in from the top right and white plastic arm protrouding from the front left. This motor is secured with 3 screws. One on top right and two on the bottom left.
Find the top screw and unscrew it.
8. There is no room to unscrew the two bottom crews this way. You would have to take out the whole dash to do it properly, but you can do it this way.
Drill two holes in the top right corner of the wall behind the glove compartment. First one about a centimeter from the top and almost tight to the right wall (the only concern is, that you will still need room for the screwdriver handle when unscrewing the crew). Second hole should be about 3 cm to the left and at the same height. For the right possition of both holes, reach behind the dash and feel the screws. I used a 15mm router drilling bit just because it makes clean holes and I had ruber plugs that fitted the holes perfectly plus I was guessing the location of the screws so I figured this way I can get more manuvering space.
9. Now unscrew the two screws
10. Turn the white plastic arm a bit so that it dissengages the metal rod and pull out the servo.
11. On the servo housing you will find plastic clips that hold it together. Carefully pry them away and open the housing as far as you can. (be carefull. they are very easy to break).
12. There are 3 plastic gears in there plus a snal gear on the motor and the part that moves the arm. Try to figure out how they are assembled so that you will be able to put them back after. You might have some trouble getting the housing to open fully. This is because of the partial gear on the arm. it is cought behind another gear wich has to pass by the snail gear on the motor before it will pop open. Try to pry it apart but be carefull not to break anything.
13. After you have opened the housing you will notice, that the snail gear on the motor axle has been pulled off center. This is why the motor was just clicking. Push the gear back on so that it is in center of the gear wich engages it when assembled.
14. Now pull out the metal axels on wich the gears were and stick them in the holes of the lid. Reassemble all the gears and join the top and bottom parts. The clips will lock nicely if you did it properly.
15. reverse all the steps to reassemble.
P.S.: Dont worry about the alighnment of the arm. It will turn to the proper position when you engage the recirc button.
God luck!
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matthew1
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storci, if you have pics email them to me matt at matthewsvolvosite dot com and I'll host them.
Last edited by matthew1 on 01 May 2007, 11:55, edited 1 time in total.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
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How to Thank someone for their post
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
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Sam!
I am going to do this repair myself also, when it started i got as far as the blower motor and well i wasn't expecting it to be so complicated so i stopped and put it back together (the wife was not happy either to see her car all in pieces like that) and specially since i didn't have a clue as to how i was going to get to the problem. Now does Volvo know about this failing part? Do they have a Fix for this?? I guess i'm just going to have to tear in to it myself
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