Where to wire? 96- 854 GLT

Post by **RobTheModd** » 23 Feb 2010, 14:05

Hey guys im looking to wire up a few smaller features,
Where can I wire in order to preserve my battery, and have some form of control over these objects.
Im installing some leds into my headlights...
and would like to be able to turn them off when I want to, and turn them on when I want to.

Can I just run them to the switch that determines my day time running lights?
and if so, how can I do that?

If I can get them to turn on while my day time running lights are on... aka. the turn signals and sidemarkers are on that would be lovely.

Actually.... Can I splice into the wires for my side markers?
Then they would be controlled by the switch i want to..

And would actually work pretty nicely, doubling as turn signals...
although it makes no sense to run the leds while my headlights are on...
so is there a way to make it so they are ONLY on when JUST my turn sigs and side markers are on?
I have to head off to college, but I will post a photo of a possible wiring diagram i have in mind for something like this... once I get to a computer after-wards.

Essentually it would either hook up to the wires used for my side markers, or directly to the switch that controls my running lights.
That would work without killing my battery right?

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Feb 2010, 14:16

so is there a way to make it so they are ONLY on when JUST my turn sigs and side markers are on?

I don't think you can do that on one of these cars. When the running lights are on, ALL lights are on except the dash lights. They don't have separate bulbs for the running lights alone. As far as I know, that's just the way it's wired.

You could probably splice into the side marker wires, but it might do funky things to the rate of the turn signals themselves.

Your best bet for running the LEDs without the lights on would be to run 12V directly in to some kind of dash switch, and then back out to the lights that you can trigger yourself. All of the Volvo dash switches are rocker switches that trigger relays, but you might be able to find something similar that will fit in one of the empty sockets. My Saab had several buttons that clicked in and clicked off (I wonder if old 80's Volvos are similar?), while the rear defroster button pushed in and triggered a relay. Something like one of those would work...that employs the same concept as a basic wall light switch rather than sending a signal to a relay when it is pressed. It might be a good idea to run it through an empty fuse socket first with, oh, say a 10 or 15A fuse in place just as a precaution.

Post by **RobTheModd** » 23 Feb 2010, 17:51

Hmmm, so im thinking about going the opposite route as that I went with the sidemarkers.
Side Markers light according to the turn signals, blink with turn signals and are on when they are on.

But I see what your saying.
Running the leds from the battery to the switch and to the led.
Like you would wire a simple connection.
Whats the risk on the battery if I do that?

Also.. haha can I use 3m double sided tape inside the headlight housing to hold the LED's onto the headlight? or would that just melt?

Anyways, heres my lame attempt at a wiring diagram.

Post by **jblackburn** » 23 Feb 2010, 22:48

LED's draw next to no current...the effect on the battery will be negligible. Of course the preferred method would be to hook into the ignition switch wiring that the rest of the car runs off of, but that would mean yanking wires out of places you really don't want to mess with. As long as you have a hot wire into an actual switch that you can cut on and off directly, there will be no drain on the battery when that switch is off...you just have to start remembering that

I hope these LEDs you're installing come with some kind of resistor circuit wired into them already? I would think a kit would, but I've never used any such kit myself.

If you put 12V directly through one of the little things, they will light right up and explode with an absolutely terrific smell. I generally start with a 1K-ohm resistor (brown-black-orange and silver or gold bands) as a safe bet in a 12V circuit. It will vary depending on the color, but that should keep you from blowing them up. Here's some good basic reading: http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

Look around at Radio Shack or an electronics store or something. Even something as simple as a click button switch would work, just get something that can handle an amp or two of current through it.

As far as mounting them, I would think that tape would just melt. 55W headlight bulbs get HOT. I've inadvertently burned myself on my desk lamp several times going to adjust the thing. I'm thinking almost some kind of stitching or small mounting clips for those. I'll do some thinking on that.

DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE CABLE BEFORE YOU GO ABOUT DOING ANYTHING! I'm sure you're not an idiot and know that, just warning you from personal experience

. 590 amps or whatever your battery puts out through your body will give you a right good kick to the heart.

Post by **RobTheModd** » 24 Feb 2010, 08:31

Haha yeah a good jolt is no fun at all.

Actually there is no resistor on it, but I did plan on picking one up seeing as how I have tried direct current to a led once and it went poof.
That of course was only a 7v battery. but nonetheless.

Hopefully this will be getting done today with a friend.
I will post photos of the outcome, aswell as perhaps a small walk thru incase anyone else would like that new euro style headlight for the price of ebay... haha.

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 Feb 2010, 09:04

Let us know how it goes

Post by **RobTheModd** » 26 Feb 2010, 07:25

Came out quite nicely. Although very bright.. thinking about throwing a resistor on it to dim. possibly 500ohms to 1k.
Aswell as changing the color to white since blue is illegal. id like to be able to run them more often then just shows.

anyways, heres the photo.
I would have posted earlier but ive been waiting for a re register email due to email change.
Kept getting this...
Could not upload attachment to ./files/22072_3e82ce73d00775a0e8c79d0dd0d42ab8.
so these are hosted on photobucket.

Ran it all to this

Ill post a small write up if anyone wants to do it here later today.
this can be done by one person, but two is faster.

Post by **matthew1** » 26 Feb 2010, 16:08

Upload's fixed.

LEDs look nice, good job. You can get a real 850 switch from ebay or a j/y and use that instead of the red one... MIJ did the antenna down switch mod and used a real switch for it.

Post by **RobTheModd** » 26 Feb 2010, 21:16

matthew1 wrote:Upload's fixed.

LEDs look nice, good job. You can get a real 850 switch from ebay or a j/y and use that instead of the red one... MIJ did the antenna down switch mod and used a real switch for it.

Was thinking about doing something like that.
Any switch that would be perfect for this job?
I like the illum switch because I know its on lol.

I never posted a write up because I need to hide the wiring more, Friend did a great job running it where he did, but I want to hide it. maybe feed it thru the wheel well and up under the battery like I did for side markers.

Post by **RobTheModd** » 01 Mar 2010, 11:17

Ok today's the day.
I'm planing on hiding the wires and running some for a very near future interior lighting system I will be installing.
I ordered a few long pieces for the back seat and such. I'll add that.

This should help if someone wants to run wires in their car and would like to know how. Where. Or just general ideals on where to run the wires threw

I'm going to be hiding my wires an replacing the positive wires with color apporiate wires.
I typically use red for positive black for ground.
But in the case of the blue headlight LEDs. I will use a blue positive to them and a red positive coming from the battery.
For obvious reasons.
I'll get a nice write up tonight posted up for this if it will help anyone.