Warped Rotors

commlend · Post by **commlend** » 08 Mar 2010, 07:06

Whats up guys,
I seem to have warped rotors- significant vibration when braking. Does replacing just the front rotors usually solve problem or when the fronts are warped they usually all are warped?
I believe I've heard someone say putting the front rotors on the back solved the problem. Has anyone tried this successfully? Thanks for any input.

Post by **charlyW** » 08 Mar 2010, 07:15

If your brake discs [rotors] are warped beyond the run out specs then bin them putting the warped ones on the back will not straighten them [unless the law of physics has changed] Make sure its the discs warped and not the wheel buckled

If you continue to use a warped disc you may damage your calipers along with the pads.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 Mar 2010, 07:22

The front and rear rotors are completely different anyway.

The fronts tend to be the ones that warp first but I always wind up changing the rears within 10k miles or so when they warp as well.

...Lee

Post by **charlyW** » 08 Mar 2010, 07:44

Ozark Lee wrote:The front and rear rotors are completely different anyway.

The fronts tend to be the ones that warp first but I always wind up changing the rears within 10k miles or so when they warp as well.

...Lee

Forgot to add that. Rears are 295mm [11.8 inch] fronts are 280 [11.2 inch]

Post by **IVIUSTANG** » 08 Mar 2010, 11:35

Get cross drilled rotors, I have had mine for 40k and they still look brand new. I drive hard to, Akebono Euro ceramic pads are also highly recommended for their noise, longevity and braking power. The pads are more expensive than the rotors, because I feel cross drilled rotors can be made of cheap metal and still last longer than stock! Don't get slotted rotors though, overkill and will kill your pads in an awful hurry.

- Jesse

shoagie · Post by **shoagie** » 08 Mar 2010, 12:39

Warped rotor are not uncommon. I have replaced them on both my bricks 3 or 4 times. I only buy the cross drilled rotors now. They seem to last much longer and are cheaper in the long run, because you do not replace them as often. I also stick with OEM pads only, in combo with the after market cross drilled. BEWARE, over tightened lug nuts can cause the rotors to warp prematurely. Whenever I have wheels installed (for new tires, etc.) I always come home, loosen the lug nuts and torque them by hand to 100 foot LBS, with a torque wrench. No matter what you tell the shop, they ALWAYS over torque.

coustyj · Post by **coustyj** » 08 Mar 2010, 14:19

shoagie wrote: Whenever I have wheels installed (for new tires, etc.) I always come home, loosen the lug nuts and torque them by hand to 100 foot LBS, with a torque wrench.

My Haynes manual say 66 ft lbs (stage 2) for a 2007 V50 - is there that big of difference between cars or are you running "oversize" rims/tires?
Just curious
Jim

Post by **matthew1** » 08 Mar 2010, 14:27

Warped rotors have not happened to my 850 since I discovered the cause.

shoagie · Post by **shoagie** » 09 Mar 2010, 06:31

coustyj wrote:
shoagie wrote: Whenever I have wheels installed (for new tires, etc.) I always come home, loosen the lug nuts and torque them by hand to 100 foot LBS, with a torque wrench.
My Haynes manual say 66 ft lbs (stage 2) for a 2007 V50 - is there that big of difference between cars or are you running "oversize" rims/tires?
Just curious
Jim

Thanks for the correction Jim. I stand corrected. I am running standard size tires on factory rims on a 96 870. I double checked the specs and found that the Bay 13 Web Site reports the 850 wheel lugs at 81.18 LBS. According to my torque wrench, I have come home from the tire shop and found them over torgued up to 150, with different setting on all 5 lugs.

shoagie · Post by **shoagie** » 09 Mar 2010, 06:56

I need to type more carefully. My 96 Volvo is a 850. (obviously there is no 870, as I incorrectly typed)