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Replaced suspension parts today

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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potroast
Posts: 214
Joined: 12 June 2004
Year and Model:
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Replaced suspension parts today

Post by potroast »

I replaced my balljoints, tie rod ends, cv joint, sway bar, and sway bar bushings today. It was actually quite easy. Took 30-45 minutes per side.

I did, however, break 3 sockets in the process. I finally went to sears and bought a full set of craftsman tools. They were expensive, but the quality is great, and it's nice being able to put some torque on your tools without fear of them breaking. Lifetime warranty, too.

Not really much point to the thread, just proud I got it all done. And surprised at how easy it all was. If anyone else needs these parts replaced, I highly suggest you do it yourself (assuming you have jackstands, a hydrolic floor jack, and a good metric socket set). I was quoted just over $1000 for a shop to do it, so I did it myself in a quarter of an afternoon for less than $200. Very happy about that!

Oh yeah, she handles so much better now!

Smash

Post by Smash »

Nice. I spent ~2 days last weekend on one of my cars...still trying to see if it was worth it!! Good that you've got that tight steering back on your Volvo.

EDS02SILVERMINI

Post by EDS02SILVERMINI »

potroast wrote:I replaced my balljoints, tie rod ends, cv joint, sway bar, and sway bar bushings today. It was actually quite easy. Took 30-45 minutes per side.

I did, however, break 3 sockets in the process. I finally went to sears and bought a full set of craftsman tools. They were expensive, but the quality is great, and it's nice being able to put some torque on your tools without fear of them breaking. Lifetime warranty, too.

Not really much point to the thread, just proud I got it all done. And surprised at how easy it all was. If anyone else needs these parts replaced, I highly suggest you do it yourself (assuming you have jackstands, a hydrolic floor jack, and a good metric socket set). I was quoted just over $1000 for a shop to do it, so I did it myself in a quarter of an afternoon for less than $200. Very happy about that!

Oh yeah, she handles so much better now!
WOULD APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE ON OUTER TIE ROD REPLACEMENT ON MY 1994 VOLVO 850

potroast2

Post by potroast2 »

Really easy if you're even somewhat mechanically inclined. Jack up the vehicle, and put the front on jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Use a socket to undo the tie-rod at the hub. Then unscrew the the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod. COUNT THE NUMBER OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE IT. Write that number down. Screw the new outer tie rod on exactly that number of turns. Then re-attach it to the hub. Do the same for the other side. replace your wheels, lower the vehicle, and torque to spec. Be sure to drive straight to a qualified technician for a front-wheel alignment.

Jot
Posts: 593
Joined: 24 January 2005
Year and Model: C30 2010
Location: Orr's Island, Maine

Post by Jot »

EDS02SILVERMINI If you need the ends "PM" me

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