Front end shimmy

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 29 Mar 2010, 11:49

I have a 95 855t with 208k. Kept wearing front rotors un-even so I replaced both front calipers, both brake hoses, and put on rotors that had been resurfaced. I also replaced drivers side axle as I found the inner joint had some play in it.
All is well for about 100 miles until the rotors begin to wear in. The shimmying is slowly coming back.

Could this be front control arms are worn? Could it be engine mounts?
I have replaced one control arm a year ago and all the engine mounts except for the two hydraulic mounts. Upon inspection, the bushings on the drivers side control arm have a bit of play in them, that is up and down, but not side to side.

The steering rack leaks too, could this be an issue? I have replaced all inner and outer tie rods.
I am kinda getting stumped on this one.

I have put on new Koni yellows, IPD HD spring mounts, OEM Strut mounts and new bolts within 4 months.

Any ideas?
The only thing that I can think of replacing is hydraulic motor mounts and drivers side control arm.....
thx

Timberwolf530 · Post by **Timberwolf530** » 29 Mar 2010, 14:43

When does it shimmy? During braking, during acceleration, only at certain speeds, all the time?

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 29 Mar 2010, 15:23

I feel shimmy - side to side pull - on acceleration and braking.

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 29 Mar 2010, 15:37

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28221

OzarkLee says "When the motor mounts go south the engine and transaxle will shift and put the axles in a bind. It tends to be more pronounced under acceleration or on uphill grades."

However for me, I feel a side to side pull under acceleration and braking. You can see the steering wheel tic and toc if that makes sense.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Mar 2010, 22:07

My method for gaming the system, particularly in the winter, is to take the car in for an alignment. The tech will come back with a list of things that are wrong that will cost at least $650.00 to fix. Have him take you back into the shop to show you what he is talking about while the car is on the lift. Some of the stuff will be iffy but some of it may be helpful.

At that point decline the repairs and they shouldn't charge you anything. At the end of the day you will have seen anything that is wrong and know what parts to buy to repair it.

...Lee

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 30 Mar 2010, 06:47

Haha, I guess I could do that Lee. However, I don't have a local mechanic since I do all the work and diagnosis.

The only things I have left to replace that concerns the drivetrain is RF CV axle, LF control arm.
Of course, the hydraulic motor mounts too. I guess with 208k on the odometer it would not hurt to replace them.

Any other ideas that would cause that side to side shimmy under braking or acceleration? It is like it is walking from left to right....

Oh, would changing the Control arm bushings to Urethane help stiffen up the front end? Would I get a creaking noise when they flex (Had them on my truck and they did squeak)?

Timberwolf530 · Post by **Timberwolf530** » 30 Mar 2010, 06:56

Could be tires. That happened to our Nissan Quest van. It did something similar to what you are describing, I would call it a waddle, and the steering wheel would wobble back and forth. This was 5 years ago, we changed the tires, and haven't had the issue since.

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 30 Mar 2010, 07:14

Timberwolf530 wrote:Could be tires.

Wow, i hope it is not the tires. That is they are about 1 year old. I'll try rotating them and see if that helps out.
Something tells me this issue is more related to something is not holding the motor/tranny tight or just that drivers side control arm.
How much play should be in a control arm bushing? I have up and down play when I stick a pry bar in the slot, but I cannot seem to get any side to side play.

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Mar 2010, 07:19

RF CV axle, LF control arm

Really either of those could cause a wiggle. A bad CV joint will likely pop or clunk on very sharp turns, and will cause it to shake under acceleration. Likewise, a loose control arm or bad bushings will cause it to dart around under acceleration and/or shake during braking. The bushings are easiest to inspect, and you said you've already got some looseness there. Polyurethane? Personally, I hate the stuff, but I've only used it for an engine mount. The regular bushings will last a pretty long time, 60-80K miles, but if you can find them for your car and want to experiment with them, go for it. I would replace them on both sides if you're going to, though.

Post by **outdoor7or24** » 30 Mar 2010, 07:28

jablackburn wrote:
RF CV axle, LF control arm
Really either of those could cause a wiggle. A bad CV joint will likely pop or clunk on very sharp turns, and will cause it to shake under acceleration. Likewise, a loose control arm or bad bushings will cause it to dart around under acceleration and/or shake during braking. The bushings are easiest to inspect, and you said you've already got some looseness there. Polyurethane? Personally, I hate the stuff, but I've only used it for an engine mount. The regular bushings will last a pretty long time, 60-80K miles, but if you can find them for your car and want to experiment with them, go for it. I would replace them on both sides if you're going to, though.

Well, I have replaced the control arm on one side about 1.5 years ago.
I guess I could replace both, as this would be easier than the motor mounts.