PCV job V70 and S70 non-turbo

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 31 Mar 2010, 19:07

Is there a way to inspect the PCV system in a V70 NA? I read a lot about the PCV system on the turbo cars but, nothing on the NA cars. I am a preventive maintenance kinda guy and want to stay on top of this. I like to know that I can get in my car anytime and get where I'm going.

Post by **jblackburn** » 31 Mar 2010, 21:54

Same basic test. Pull out the oil stick, look for smoke, or put a balloon over the opening. If you see smoke, or the balloon inflates, the system needs to be cleaned. Let us know the results, and I'll dig up the non-turbo write-up, I think it's on my work computer or hidden in my bookmarks somewhere

Post by **cn90** » 31 Mar 2010, 22:42

My suggestion if you have more than 100K miles, just do it, don't waste time testing it.

Just finished my PCV Job and I would like to share some tips and pictures with the rest.
Symptom: leaking Rear Main Seal but.......at the end there was no clogging of my PCV at all, so I have the RMS replaced by my indy because it is such a big job.

Since my car was driven on mostly highway (60%) and city driving (40%) is usually more than 10 miles, and also since I changed my oil twice a year (every 5K), there is virtually no clogging of the PCV at all. All the orifices have some deposit but the clog is about 5%. So I ended up with a brand new PCV system and a write-up for you guys!

There is a write-up for the Turbo Engine:
http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/

Get the PCV Kit for your car from "FCP Groton". Allow 3-4 hours of work!

Since mine is a Non-Turbo, there are minor different designs compared with Turbo Models. In addition, I will point to areas of possible problems for people.

- Read the above write-up for Turbo.
- Copy Radio AM FM channels, disconect battery for safety.
- Remove electrical connections to Throttle and Idle Valve
- Remove these 2 hoses (my vacuum hose is brittle so I replaced it)
- The PCV connection to elbow: turn it Counter-Clockwise (when viewed end on, similar to opening a bottle cap) a bit, it will come off the plastic Elbow.

- Remove large clamps holding the Elbow and remove the Elbow from the Air Mass Meter and Throttle Intake. The manifold is now attached only by: throttle cable, wiring to fuel injectors.

: 98V70_PCV_01.jpg (122.41 KiB) Viewed 16390 times

- When removing vacuum connections, watch for the Rubber Vacuum Plugs, they can be knocked off and difficult to find.

: 98V70_PCV_02.jpg (129.15 KiB) Viewed 16390 times

- De-pressurizing the fuel system by releasing the shrader valve, about 10 cc of gasoline will come out here. Re-install the blue cap.
- To disconnect Fuel line (which is flared fitting if you are familiar with home plumbing system), 17-mm wrench of the large nut and 14-mm (or 9/16") wrench on the fuel rail.
- Slightly move the fuel line a bit to ease removal of the Intake Manifold.

- The Intake Manifold has 3 Upper bolts and 4 Lower bolts. Remove the 3 Upper bolts using 10-mm socket with swivel and telescoping magnet. Do NOT remove the 4 Lower Bolts, loosen them only (Do NOT remove them).

- Underneath the Intake Manifold, there are two (2) 12-mm bolts holding the Manifold and Engine Oil Dipstick.
- I use a piece of wood as a "bridge" to rest the Intake Manifold to avoid straining the driver side connections (throttle cable, wiring to fuel injectors etc.)

: 98V70_PCV_03.jpg (121.96 KiB) Viewed 16390 times

- The Oil separator has 2 bolts. The short rubber hose to the engine block uses 2 clamps (torx).
- As mentioned in the other write-up. Make a note of the hose connections so you do NOT get mixed up. Also attach the hoses and clamps on the Oil separator before installing the Oil separator.
NOTE: For the clamps: I use a Ceramic Tile Nipper but I file the edges smooth to avoid sharp edges cutting through the clamp. Alternatively, you can use the Pliers that Sprinkler System Installers use.

- Remove the old gasket, clean the mating surfaces using a rag and paint thinner (or mineral spirits) to wash off the gunk.

- Note for all installations: use a small dab of grease around hoses, elbows etc., this will allow smooth installation without tearing the hose or damage to the connections.

- Install new gasket. I apply a bit of grease to help hold the gasket in place during installation. NOTE: Now remove all 4 Lower Bolts, then loosely install them with ONLY 3 turns to allow room for the Intake Manifold to go in. Watch the passenger's side of the Intake Manifold, it can hit the Upper Radiator Hose near the thermostat!

- Do NOT forget to re-attach the small vacuum hose attachment on the pass side of the Intake Manifold. Then snake the Rubber Hose through the Manifold between the 3rd and 4th Intake Space. Re-install the Intake Manifold taking care NOT to damage the gasket. Tighten all 7 bolts. Do NOT forget the 2 bolts underneath the Manifold.

- Re-attach Fuel Line, Intake Elbow, Electrical Connections, Vacuum Hoses, Rubber Plug (if you knocked it off!).

- Connect battery. Prime the fuel system by turning key in Ingition to II position (without starting engine) a few times to prime the fuel pump.

- Start engine, watch for any fuel leak at the flared fitting. Test drive the car.

- Re-program the radio.

Good Luck!!!

cn90
1998 V70 102K miles
60% highway
40% city driving (more than 10 miles each trip)

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 31 Mar 2010, 23:13

You're on a roll with these write-ups!

By the way, you might give this stuff a shot before going to the big RMS job:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=238613

It's a UK-marketed thing...

I've used something with similar promises on the label that I got at a Kragen's car parts store--it was recommended by two separate smog-test guys. The leak hasn't stopped (it had been pretty dramatic), but at this stage it certainly has improved, and seems to be down to a few drips overnight, which I certainly can live with. I'll post more after a week or two when the stuff has had a sufficient chance to do it's thing.

Post by **jblackburn** » 01 Apr 2010, 00:45

Pretty sweet instructions, I'm going to add this to the write-up we're going to put together for the overall PCV system.

Post by **jblackburn** » 01 Apr 2010, 13:10

More or less; depending on whether or not your car has the EGR (exhaust recirculation) system, the hose setup may be slightly different.

I think the hose from the PTC back to the left side of the intake manifold is slightly different on those. But if your car doesn't have that system, then yours is exactly like mine and the one there.

My advice is to follow each hose to both ends, and take pictures as you go along, then put each back exactly where it was

I'll be digging into mine tomorrow as well, so if you need any help with anything, PM me and I'll give you my # and can help you out with anything.

Paul240480 · Post by **Paul240480** » 27 Mar 2011, 08:46

Thanks for that! Just what I need as I am soon to replace the pcv stuff on my 2.5 20v with 165k & a smoking dip-stick tube!

I have the kit. Having looked through it I notice it had a couple of 'flame traps' - the white plastic 'sieve' type things. These are exactly the same as the flame trap on my 240's PCV system. On 240's these flame traps were removed on services as they were deemed not needed by Volvo at some stage. Results is the engine being able to breathe more freely & of course less chance of it being able to clog up.

I removed my 240's one from it's holder some years back & all is well.

Onto my question: Do the flame traps need to be fitted on the 5 cylinder engines or can they be left out

Oh just noticed this is V70 related

, mine is an 850 Btw

Thanks again

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Mar 2011, 10:04

Same goes for the 850 as the V70 - take that flame trap and toss it out!

Paul240480 · Post by **Paul240480** » 27 Mar 2011, 11:02

jblackburn wrote:Same goes for the 850 as the V70 - take that flame trap and toss it out!

Thanks