Volvo S60 Starting issues
Volvo S60 Starting issues
I recently tried to start my car and it had been working fine up until yesterday. I tried to start my car but it would not start. The engine turned over fine (battery seems fine as well as the alternator, i've also recently replaced the spark plugs) but for some reason the car would not start. I tried several time and eventually the car fired up and ran perfectly fine. This is the second time that this has happened in about a 3 week span. Any ideas as to what the problem may be? Thanks for your help
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
If its hard to start but then runs fine (but not as well when damp out) it is usually a coil failure. You might want to pull the codes to see your misfire rate per cylinder.
If you have coil on plugs then there will be one coil on top of each spark plug
If you have a distributor then you will have a coil and wires.
S60's also had issues with fuel pressure sensors that would cause a similar problem.
You might want to check the fuel pressure next time it acts up.
If you have coil on plugs then there will be one coil on top of each spark plug
If you have a distributor then you will have a coil and wires.
S60's also had issues with fuel pressure sensors that would cause a similar problem.
You might want to check the fuel pressure next time it acts up.
Retired
Thanks for your insight. I did not receive any codes when this took place. I wasn't damp out either. The majority of the time, my car fires up right away. Could it be a fuel filter or even a fuel pump? I thought that initially but then my car would be affected at all times. It still runs great once it starts....
-
JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
- Been thanked: 3 times
Did you scan it and see a misfire rate or are you saying the car did not set the MIL(malfunction) light?
The computer won't record the misfires until it starts. A small rate of misfires may still point to a bad plug or coil. This would not set a MIL( light) or code but show up in th emisfire history.
Also, Do you have enough miles that the sensors might be coming into question?
Cam and crank sensors can begin to fail as early as 60K
As far as a failing pump they do tend to show by not starting quickly. When the pump is first engergized is when it is hardest for the pump. You should start to listen for it before you start the car. This is also why a fuel pressure reading is helpful when it fails.
Do you have an OBD scanner?
The computer won't record the misfires until it starts. A small rate of misfires may still point to a bad plug or coil. This would not set a MIL( light) or code but show up in th emisfire history.
Also, Do you have enough miles that the sensors might be coming into question?
Cam and crank sensors can begin to fail as early as 60K
As far as a failing pump they do tend to show by not starting quickly. When the pump is first engergized is when it is hardest for the pump. You should start to listen for it before you start the car. This is also why a fuel pressure reading is helpful when it fails.
Do you have an OBD scanner?
Retired
-
Joe Hurless
- Posts: 55
- Joined: 17 February 2010
- Year and Model: e36 328is
- Location: Boise, ID
Sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator. Start the car and let it run for a bit. After a few minutes, pull the vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and look for a dripping stream of fuel. If no fuel is leaking out, smell the end of the vacuum line to see if it smells like gas. If there is evidence of fuel entering the line or any leakage from the regulator, that's your problem.
Edit: Now, come to think of it, I cannot remember off hand if S60s have the old style checkable FPR near the intake. Can anyone confirm?
Edit: Now, come to think of it, I cannot remember off hand if S60s have the old style checkable FPR near the intake. Can anyone confirm?
I have not seen any MIL light appear when the car started. Everything runs perfectly fine once it started. Also, this problem does not occur when the car is cold. the last time it happened I had just been driving around, stopped to fill up with gas and when I tried to start my car it wouldn't for about 5 turns.
I do not own an obd scanner either. When i go to start my car everything sounds normal.
I do not own an obd scanner either. When i go to start my car everything sounds normal.
Quick update: Problem is fixed!
I had recently changed my plugs and coils due to a cylinder misfire. This apparently caused my computer to assume that there was an overload of fuel in the cylinder causing the delayed start. The mechanic told me that there may have been a small amount of fuel in my oil and therefore caused the problem. Did a quick oil change and it works great again! Thanks for the help
I had recently changed my plugs and coils due to a cylinder misfire. This apparently caused my computer to assume that there was an overload of fuel in the cylinder causing the delayed start. The mechanic told me that there may have been a small amount of fuel in my oil and therefore caused the problem. Did a quick oil change and it works great again! Thanks for the help
I have been battling the same issue for over a year now.
My 2004, S60, 2.4 has 112,000 miles on it. It originally had an issue every month or so that on occasion the car would take a notion to not start. The starter and engine would work fine but would not start. It didn’t matter whether it was hot or cold outside.
I learned after trial and error that if I held the gas pedal about half way down it would finally start. Once it was started and idled at about 1500-2000 rpm for a minute it would idle on its own and the car would basically run normal. While revving the motor at this rpm I notice that it wants to flucuate and I have to increase/decrease the pressire on the gas pedal to try to maintain a constant rpm. It acts like a car that has a carburetor and the choke is not working properly. Once the car is started, there is a strong odor of gas. No codes would be stored nor engine lights come on. I felt that the car was a little sluggish sometimes on medium and hard acceleration though it did not appear to be cutting out or missing.
The fuel rail pressure switch was changed under a recall at about 56,000 miles. I changed the timing belt and water pump at about 98,000, spark plugs and the fuel pump at 104,000 miles. My car has the fuel pump/filter/regulator all in one in the gas tank . I also changed the fuel pump relay that is up under the dash and the battery was recently changed.
Prior to changing the pump I took it to my Volvo dealer twice to run diagnostics on it. I was told that everything checked out fine and they did not retrieve any trouble codes either time. They could not replicate the problem while they had the car.
I ran a fuel pressure check on it and found that when I initially turned on the key but not starting the car, there was 10 lbs of fuel pressure. I turned the key off and back on and got 22 lbs of pressure. On a 3rd try, there would be 43 lbs of pressure as needed and the car would start although I would have to keep the engine revved for 30-60 seconds, then it ran normal. Once the engine idled on its own it the pressure would bounce between 57-58 lbs. I ran a leak down test, the gauge did not drop from 42 lbs for at least 30 minutes. I ran that test on two different occasions.
I decided to change the injectors last week. I still have the same problem. Once the car starts, I have to keep it revved as before and it is still fluctuating on the rpm until it runs for about a minute. The pressure gauge now holds solid at 58 lbs when idling and the car runs smoother.
Could the fuel rail pressure sensor cause this and still not set a code? Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Thank you, BMT
My 2004, S60, 2.4 has 112,000 miles on it. It originally had an issue every month or so that on occasion the car would take a notion to not start. The starter and engine would work fine but would not start. It didn’t matter whether it was hot or cold outside.
I learned after trial and error that if I held the gas pedal about half way down it would finally start. Once it was started and idled at about 1500-2000 rpm for a minute it would idle on its own and the car would basically run normal. While revving the motor at this rpm I notice that it wants to flucuate and I have to increase/decrease the pressire on the gas pedal to try to maintain a constant rpm. It acts like a car that has a carburetor and the choke is not working properly. Once the car is started, there is a strong odor of gas. No codes would be stored nor engine lights come on. I felt that the car was a little sluggish sometimes on medium and hard acceleration though it did not appear to be cutting out or missing.
The fuel rail pressure switch was changed under a recall at about 56,000 miles. I changed the timing belt and water pump at about 98,000, spark plugs and the fuel pump at 104,000 miles. My car has the fuel pump/filter/regulator all in one in the gas tank . I also changed the fuel pump relay that is up under the dash and the battery was recently changed.
Prior to changing the pump I took it to my Volvo dealer twice to run diagnostics on it. I was told that everything checked out fine and they did not retrieve any trouble codes either time. They could not replicate the problem while they had the car.
I ran a fuel pressure check on it and found that when I initially turned on the key but not starting the car, there was 10 lbs of fuel pressure. I turned the key off and back on and got 22 lbs of pressure. On a 3rd try, there would be 43 lbs of pressure as needed and the car would start although I would have to keep the engine revved for 30-60 seconds, then it ran normal. Once the engine idled on its own it the pressure would bounce between 57-58 lbs. I ran a leak down test, the gauge did not drop from 42 lbs for at least 30 minutes. I ran that test on two different occasions.
I decided to change the injectors last week. I still have the same problem. Once the car starts, I have to keep it revved as before and it is still fluctuating on the rpm until it runs for about a minute. The pressure gauge now holds solid at 58 lbs when idling and the car runs smoother.
Could the fuel rail pressure sensor cause this and still not set a code? Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Thank you, BMT
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post