V70 T5 2005 how to remove the MAF sensor.

picoegallo · Post by **picoegallo** » 08 Apr 2010, 22:29

Hello I am Picoegallo and I am new to the forum; I have a beautiful 2005 V70 T5 with 89,000 miles and the check engine light came ON around April 1st, 2010. I used the OBD II and got the following codes P2188 and P0101. I went on line and basically it talks about the MAF sensor (mixture too rich on bank 1). I learned that I should try to clean the MAF using MAF cleaner. I went to Autozone and purchased the MAF cleaner and then I thought that I might as well replace the Air filter since it is right next to the MAF sensor. I order the filter and it should arrive soon; in the mean time I removed the old filter and blew compress air to remove some of the dust and dirt from it. I placed the old filter back in the car and a day later, the check engine light went out. However, I believe that a problem persists because I feel as if the Engine's rpms are not even while at idle.
Anyway I am going to clean the MAF sensor but I cannot seem to find the correct tool to remove the two screws that holds the MAF sensor in place; I read that I needed a Torx T25 but the ones I have don't seem to do the trick. Now I now that I need the Tamper Proof Torx but I swear that I have gone to autozone, Kragen, Pepboys, Sears, etc and the Tamper proof Torx T25 don't fit the screws. Can someone tell me where to get the correct tool for this job.

Thanks

1foren · Post by **1foren** » 09 Apr 2010, 08:51

There are four screws total on the MAF sensor. the two that hold the sensor (ie: tamper proof) to the housing you do not remove. The two that hold the sensor to the top of the air box can be removed with the torx bits. Then remove the hose clamp. Do not touch the inside of the sensor with anything. the can of cleaner has the exact instructions for cleaning.

picoegallo · Post by **picoegallo** » 09 Apr 2010, 22:41

1Foren, I am grateful for your advice. Tomorrow morning I will attempt to remove and clean the MAF sensor. By the way, the check engine light is back "ON". I will come back with the results.

picoegallo · Post by **picoegallo** » 10 Apr 2010, 10:33

1foren:I am back to sadly report that I have failed in the removal of the MAF sensor. I see the two screws you mentioned; however one of them is really easy to remove, but the other one is rather inaccessible. So I decided to follow up directions from a similar post on this very same forum which basically calls for the removal of the air filter box and the MAF attached together and then you remove the MAF later. Anyway, here is a list of things that I did:
1. removed the electrical connector. 2. removed air filter. 3. Loosen up the hose clamp near the MAF. 4. removed three bolts holding air filter box and thus I was able to wiggle the air filter box and I see that the hose should be able to come off of the MAF.
My problem was that I did not have enough room to manage to pull the hose off of the MAF body. I thought that I should attempt to remove the hose at the other end at the intake of the engine but this seems as I am making the problem bigger. I don't want to give up yet so I am hoping you 1foren or someone else can give me some more advice.

1foren · Post by **1foren** » 11 Apr 2010, 09:50

Yeah the hard part is getting that plastic hose off. Move that hose clamp completely away from the air box. If you are in a warm climate. Move your car in the sun. it will soften up the plastic. You just have to get mad and pull it apart...

picoegallo · Post by **picoegallo** » 18 Jun 2010, 21:24

After all the trying and giving up, I paid a mechanic to replace the MAF but no improvement on the idling of the car when the engine is cold; in addition, the check engine light is still on. I decided to take it to a volvo specialist and I was told by the mechanic, an old wise guy who owns a nice looking shop that he wouldn't even attempt to fix my car because Volvo doesn't relase some type of codes, software, I was not clear but the point is that the mechanic directed me to take the car to the dealership. Is it that hard to perform repairs on these type of car? Please post your comments.

1foren · Post by **1foren** » 19 Jun 2010, 11:33

There are two key parts to Fuel mixture. The MAF sensor(which you have replaced) and the O2 sensors. Which are located on the Exhaust side of the engine. They check the mixture coming out of the engine. That would be where I would go next. Also, with 90k miles you might want to start thinking about plugs.

picoegallo · Post by **picoegallo** » 21 Jun 2010, 09:07

Thanks 1Foren, I will look into the Oxygen sensor and plugs. Do I need to take the car to the dealership to have the check engine light be turned off?

Post by **vjaneczko** » 23 Jun 2010, 08:33

You should be able to get a ODBII scanner from your local auto parts store for less then 50 bucks. For this price, you'll get a unit that will display codes and let you reset the light.

And what's this about a Volvo specialist that won't touch your car?! That makes no sense! Maybe he just doesn't want to spend the money on the latest VADIS.

Post by **confused_al** » 23 Jun 2010, 17:52

picoegallo wrote:Do I need to take the car to the dealership to have the check engine light be turned off?

To turn CEL off is simple thing, you can just disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for a about an hour or two (you need have your radio code handy). However, you need find exactly what is the cause for the CEL, a scanner, as vjaneczko suggested, will give the code/codes you can trace the roots of it.