P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)

[jblackburn]

The smoke is back somewhat at the dipstick, especially with the A/C running but I think it's just because I blew off the vacuum line and haven't had a chance to fix it yet. When it was connected, there was no pressure at all. No blue smoke out the exhaust, and it seems less grumpy in the mornings, but it would really only do that after it sat for a few days without being driven. That oil-burning could be an entirely different cause on mine, but it's 12 years old anyway.

I didn't torque any of them, just tightened to the point where the wrench starts resisting turning, and then about 90 degrees past that. The spec is 14 lb/ft, which isn't much. I checked for leaks afterwards with a Benzene torch, and there were none around the gasket.

[whoa]

The PCV job didn't help much with oil consumption on my car, and it did not improve the (relatively mild) symptoms of dipstick smoke and filler-cap oozage. It's too early to say for sure, but I think replacing the valve stem seals did wonders for all of that.

[zhenya]

This is a job that I probably need to take care of this summer on my 850. I have a very small oil leak probably from the RMS and a bit on the valve cover. Hoping to get a better look at the RMS leak when I change the oil and install the poly transmission bushing this weekend.

When people say 'smoke from the dipstick,' how much are we talking? I get a very small amount, mostly only visible in the right lighting. I've also seen people say to put a balloon on the dipstick to see if it will inflate - I tried that and pretty much nothing. Thoughts?

Anyhow, excellent write-up and it will definitely be my first resource when I'm ready to tackle this! Well done!

[1997volvo850]

Justin and others,

I've read on the Volvospeed site about problems with the FCP Groton PCV kit. The posts were
a few years old and said the person needed to do the PCV again after six months because some of
the hoses in the kit failed. Not sure this is a problem with the kit.

For those individuals who replaced the PCV in the past, any problems with any of the kits that
are available? If you have experience with multiple kits can you describe the differences.

I have the kit from FCP Groton. I need to buy another kit for a second car so any advice is welcome.

On the other site someone that did the PCV job said they spend time cleaning out the passages in the
engine. Justin, did you spend time cleaning the interior passages? I don't see much in your tutorial on this.
The individual said they used a stiff wire and a drill (roto router) to clean out the passages in the engine.
Would a shop vac help to suck out the loose stuff without sucking all of the oil out.

Like I said, got the kit, but have seen a few issues come up here, like the smoke not going away after
the job. Someone else couldn't start their car after the job. Been 80K since last PCV job so I know I need
to do it. Just waiting for things to settle out a bit here.

[matthew1]

I have the FCP kit in my 850. I had it done at Kathys Northern European in Seattle at around 82k miles in Nov 2007 (you can give me hell for having it done, but it was November in Seattle, and I didn't have a garage to use). No problems.

[jblackburn]

As far as I can tell from service records, this is my car's first PCV service ever. The hoses certainly attest to that.

I used IPD's kit, because I ordered other parts from them at the time FCP doesn't have. They use URO hoses - I don't know what FCP puts in their kit, and the only problem I had was connecting the fat tube to the PTC nipple. It's a little too short (probably just the way I put it in), so my hoses don't seat down all the way, but they're connected and I'm OK with that - I'm tired of fighting with it. I like the screw-style clamps IPD gives you with the kit better - someone mentioned the Oetiker clip things are better, but they're also more of a pain. As long as you tighten down everything, they should be OK.

Really it's up to you, they're almost identical. If you want OEM hoses, give the guys at DW Volvo a call.

I did clean the passages, I guess I forgot to mention that part. I stole a wire brush from the tools we use to clean the tubes on the canister filter to our fish tank - basically a big brush on a flexible shaft and shoved it down all the tubes, and called it good. None of them were too clogged to begin with. I wouldn't worry about vacuuming them out, just shove the stuff down in there and the oil filter will catch it.

Probably a good idea to change your oil a week or two later - I changed mine the next week, and it was much dirtier than usual. Probably some of that's the Seafoam I added, too.

As far as smoke not going away, maybe some engines are just more worn than others. The system just handles blow-by past the piston rings and valve seals as the engine's running, and I imagine it was designed to do that on a NEW engine. If yours is more worn, then the design of the system just may not be able to handle it. Once I got the small vacuum line to stop falling off, my positive pressure is gone ENTIRELY unless I turn on the A/C with it idling.

Someone on the site here has done the whole system, and is still getting that pressure. She's running seafoam through hers right now, and I guess we'll see what the outcome of hers is. I think it may help with this issue somewhat.

[iselloil]

You noted that use carb cleaner on the throttle body.I don t recomend gumout carb cleaner at all in the throttle body.I do the small engine repair on Sthil and other brands part time.We had a generator that had a carb problem,and I pulled the fuel bowl,sprayed the carb with Gumout.
As soon as we sprayed the carb,all of the rubber gaskets swelled and deformed to the point they could not be used.
We've used gumout in the past,but never again on any rubber parts or gaskets. We now use the Amsoil power foam.

[xtrattitude4u]

I did this repair yesterday and found it unnecessary to remove either the coolant hose or the fuel rail. (98 s70 non-turbo) I also didn't lift the car, as only 2 bolts need to be accessed from below. (I fit just fine and i'm a big guy) It is vital to have a pair of crimping pliers for the "special Volvo hose clamps" which regular hose clamps just wont replace (properly). The wobble sockets, universal joint, and extensions, couldn't have done it without them. I also found it SOOOOOOO necessary to remove the fan shroud. It all comes off with 4 screws, and made this job MUCH easier. Getting to the bolts underneath the car was a breeze after that.

The PCV fix solved the smoking dipstick, smoking exhaust and sputtering when decelerating. The knock sensors are right by the flame trap so it would be good to check those out at the same time.

[obayha]

Going back into my pcv fix again tonite. Easy to remove everything from the top. A 12 mm swivel box ratchet works great on the two bolts you can't see, only feel. I broke the plastic tube from the PTC to the pcv, so once again I will undo it all. It is much easier the third time, with regret though. What is the MAF mentioned in this article and also the knock sensor?? Would like to check those out while it is down. I have a 98 V70 T5 with 218,000 miles. The first time I did the fix I used regular hose clamps, and in cut into all the hoses, hence the second fix. Lesson learned to use quality parts where needed. Did not remove radiator hoses, other than that, I followed this write up right through. Great write-up. After this, I need new vale seal. Someone point me to a good write-up. Thanks again.