anti seize or grease on inner cv axle splines?

Post by **j_cd** » 11 May 2010, 22:36

OK I'm gonna try to replace my passenger side cv axle tomorrow. I watched my neighbor do the other one recently. I'm not a tenth of the mechanic that he is, but I think I can do it. For one thing, the passenger side axle is supposed to slide right out, no clip to pop. Also since we did the first one, I've read that you can just unbolt the control arm instead of going to ball joint hell. My drivers side ball joint will eventually need to be replaced, but the RTV seems to be holding the torn boot together for now.

I'm pretty sure my neigbor put some grease on the splines where it slides into the transmission, but the guy who wrote the volvospeed tutorial uses anti seize. Another guy said that even though the manufacturer tells you to use loctite or whatever, they all have regular grease in them when he takes them apart. I've read a lot of threads, and I know that you don't have to use the loctite, so I don't plan to. What's your preference though, grease or anti seize?

Post by **cn90** » 11 May 2010, 22:48

You don't want loctite there. It will make future removal difficult.

Anti-seize is basically a type of grease and that is all.

Use anti-seize or grease is fine.

When I did mine, I used nothing. This was 2 years ago.

Post by **j_cd** » 11 May 2010, 22:57

Thanks for the reply. Definitely no loctite. I'll probably go with the anti seize. Got both anti seize and grease here.

Putting new Meyle sway bar links on too, but they won't be here until the next day.

Post by **Hoov** » 12 May 2010, 00:13

Hmmmm!
Interesting question because I was just reading the label on an anti-sieze tube (Amazing what one will do while waiting for some goo or another to "dry".)
Anywho, it stated specifically not to use it on ball joints.
Now I know splines are not ball joints with not near the motion. AND there is very little motion within those splines but there is some & as such I would be inclined to use a heavy duty lube/grease.
Probably not a big deal but I'm thinking if you are doing it ... ...
I have always used the waterproof grease that I use on the wheel bearings of my boat trailor. Not that it is right, just figured if it was good for those high stresses it would be great for this purpose too. Might be overkill. Just a thought.

Hoov

Post by **j_cd** » 12 May 2010, 00:47

Grease it is then. I've got the tub we used on the drivers side axle right here, it's Coastal Uniplex Hi-Temp from auto zone. Just your standard lithium complex grease, suitable for disc brake, wheel bearings, U-joints, etc... The other axle is working great, so I'll just use what I've got.

Post by **Hoov** » 12 May 2010, 01:46

There ya go! You have it, it will work in wheel bearings (Pretty high stress),... uh ... & you have it, BINGO!!!
Truth is, if you ever have to pull the bloody thing again I magine you will thank yourself! It will probably actualy come apart.

I think you can do this too!!! You already did one with help. This time you will just have to use your own imagination & trust me here! I've never met a wrench who lacked imagination because no matter what the book says, it always goes south some place or another. ... No hill for a climber! ... I would say "Good Luck" but truth is, it really is about percervierance & the will to do the job. A few of these & when somebody says "Good luck" you can reply: Luck has nothing to do with it! It's all about "Skill"! ...
& a few tools of course!

Hoov

Post by **j_cd** » 12 May 2010, 01:54

Thanks for the encouragement! I found a post on volvo forums that makes it sound much easier if you just detach 2 bolts where the A-arm attaches to the sub frame. I'm assuming A-arm and control arm are the same thing, right? Supposedly this way you don't have to touch the stupid ball joint at all.

Getting the ball joint to pop out was a major pain on the other axle. If I don't have to go through that it should be a piece of cake, and I've got all the tools here from the other job. I'll just need to rent the breaker bar again. The way my neighbor got the axle nut off the other wheel was to put a huge metal fence post over the breaker bar and stand on it.

jdm1 · Post by **jdm1** » 12 May 2010, 06:01

I would stay away from the anti-seize, I have never used it and have done replacements on various cars, volvo, nissan, honda. A good pry bar should be all you need, the fence post seems like overkill or something was really frozen, but I have never run into that. Good luck.

John

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 12 May 2010, 08:04

Yeah, removing the two frame-side control arm (A-arm) bolts is not hard. You might have to do a little prying to free the arm, but it's obvious what to do.

As for putting goop on the inner splines, I don't think it will matter at all.

Post by **wheelsup** » 12 May 2010, 08:47

Steps 6-12

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 73&start=0

Also make sure you drain the tranny fluid or you will have a big mess