anti seize or grease on inner cv axle splines?

[confused_al]

On the OUTER side (Hub), Volvo procedure calls for using loctite.
I think it is bogus because loctite makes future removal very difficult.

Yes, it will make future removal harder, but this thread lock is to eliminate any splines mating resulted vibration.

[850tech]

On the OUTER side (Hub), Volvo procedure calls for using loctite.
I think it is bogus because loctite makes future removal very difficult.

Yes, it will make future removal harder, but this thread lock is to eliminate any splines mating resulted vibration.

+1
Checked alldata, Volvo calls for metal glue 1161370-0 applied to driveshaft splines, though I've done more then I can count and heve never used it. I would say a little white grease or synthetic molly grease used for brake lubrication would be fine, though again I dont use it. For me if they're siezed in i just use an air hammer to push them loose.

[wheelsup]

Even if putting grease or anti seize into the transmission didn't hurt it there would be NO REASON to do it. There was zero rust on that end of the transmission and axle when I took them out of a car that had spent a long time in upstate NY. Lots of snow and salt and still no rust. The axle just pulled right out of that side. There is a seal that prevents anything from getting in, and keeps the inside nice and rust free.

[wheelsup]

I also asked him about detaching the control arm instead of prying on the ball joint. He said he tried that, but they were torqued on there too tight, so we'll see. I'll probably repalce the control arm/ball joints at some point anyway.

Yeah they are on tight you probably need a breaker bar.

[wheelsup]

On the OUTER side (Hub), Volvo procedure calls for using loctite.
I think it is bogus because loctite makes future removal very difficult.

Yes, it will make future removal harder, but this thread lock is to eliminate any splines mating resulted vibration.

Interesting info, was this prevalent in our 850's? Or a leftover procedure from other cars?

[cn90]

The reason Volvo calls for Loctite on the OUTER spline is to prevent knocking noise (the splines rock back and forth inside the hub).
But when you think about it: why Loctite on the OUTER Splines but nothing on the INNER Splines (the Trans side)? It makes no sense.

BMW does not use Loctite.

What prevents the the splines rock back and forth inside the hub is the tight machining of the components, which are tight to start with.
Loctite is nothing but a material with a "sugary" consistency. Put a drop of Loctite on the floor and observe it a day later, it is sticky like dry sugary drink. Loctite is no magic. Let's say the machining is not tight to start with, Loctite will not do a damn thing to stop the noise.

Anyway, Antiseize the way to go. I have absolutely no noise whatsoever.
99% mechanics out there use antiseize when it comes to splines.

[j_cd]

Well, the axle from auto zone was supposed to be a Cardone remaned. It's in a Duralast box with the Cardone part number. It looks like a piece of garbage compared to the brand new Cardone select one we put on the drivers side. Yes, I know the remans are supposed to be better because they use Volvo drive shafts instead of Chinese ones, but this axle appears to be already leaking and the ends are dirty, etc... I'm gonna return it and order the same kind I put on the other side.

[JDS60R]

Good call,
never use a remaned axle.

If you need a good rebuilt axle (not remanned) call marty at Raxles.

Why you should avoid remanufactured - read at www.raxles.com

[j_cd]

Yeah I just returned it. There was lube oil leaking out of one of the seals in the center, the thread was dirty, it had the crappy little axle nut that I read about, and to top it off, it didn't even look like they used new boots!

The Cardone Select drivers side axle I got from a parts house in New Jersey has neoprene boots and the axle nut is identical to the original Volvo one except that it's shiny, brand new, as are the splines.

[FireFox31]

On the 2000 5-speed automatic, does the right axle socket come in contact with ATF or is it sealed? On my 2000 V70 FWD NA automatic, that socket was full of red powder, not fluid. Though the transmission was drained when I removed the axle, there was no trace of ATF in there.

With this in mind, could grease of any type be used on the axle inner splines to the transmission? Is ATF safer than anti-seize or lithium in case it does mix with transmission fluid?

Must I drain the transmission fluid to remove the right axle? I drained it and nothing leaked out, but it seems sealed.

I had a very hard time removing the original Volvo front right axle. I wound up beating on the carrier bearing with a hammer to force it out. Yes, I should have used a pickle fork at the transmission. I removed a 1999 axle at a junkyard simply by pulling. I had a harder time reinstalling the axle. It required maybe 70 moderate taps with a hammer on the axle hub end to fully seat it. I wish I could use grease so I can remove and reinstall this easily again.

I wonder if this is true for -1999 4-speed automatic transmission right axle sockets as well.