Trying to buy Volvo, more questions
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polskamafia mjl
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- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
- Location: Hershey, PA
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Re: Trying to buy Volvo, more questions
I'm not sure what a cylinder balance test is but a compression test will reveal any problems caused by a leaky head gasket and/or burned exhaust valves. Letting the door check go will eventually cause the weld to fail. At that point you have 2 options, get a welder to redo it or screw in 2 extra bolts to support the joint. There is much more on this in that link I provided to you. I highly recommend you read through it.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
I'm sure I'll be fixing the door, it was pretty annoying even on the test drive. The car has 120,000 miles (180,000 km), I think I can get it for a pretty good price, have to see what the inspection shows and how flexible the guy is based on that.
As far as the cylinder balance test, I don't know much about it, but they somehow electronically disable each cylinder in turn while the engine is running and see how it affects the engine - I believe the idea is that if disabling a particular cylinder doesn't impair the engine much, then that cylinder is weaker than the others. More to it than this I think, but that's the basic idea from what I understand. This would show a weak cylinder, but not sure if it would show an overall weak compression?
As far as the cylinder balance test, I don't know much about it, but they somehow electronically disable each cylinder in turn while the engine is running and see how it affects the engine - I believe the idea is that if disabling a particular cylinder doesn't impair the engine much, then that cylinder is weaker than the others. More to it than this I think, but that's the basic idea from what I understand. This would show a weak cylinder, but not sure if it would show an overall weak compression?
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polskamafia mjl
- Posts: 2640
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Hmm...interesting. Still, I believe a compression test should be performed at some point. I don't know if you have looked over the other things, but make sure you check the PCV, check that the odometer is still working, check the ABS system, and most important of all is the timing belt.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Got the inspection report back, actually looks pretty good. All the steering/suspension parts checked out, so not sure about the mushy steering. Good it be crappy tires? Maybe I'm just not used to it.
One concern, states the service engine light was on during engine warm up. I didn't notice this at my test drive, but the guy drove to meet me so the engine was already warm. I guess I'd have to have the codes read to get a better sense, but anyone have opinions of possible causes for the warning light to be on only during warm up?
It also noted an oil leak - "oil wetness around cylinder head/intake manifold area, front right, including turbo." I'm not surprised at an oil leak on a 96, any opinions on the possible source and probable repair cost of same?
Really appreciate all the input up to now, this is definitely one of the most helpful forums I've encountered.
One concern, states the service engine light was on during engine warm up. I didn't notice this at my test drive, but the guy drove to meet me so the engine was already warm. I guess I'd have to have the codes read to get a better sense, but anyone have opinions of possible causes for the warning light to be on only during warm up?
It also noted an oil leak - "oil wetness around cylinder head/intake manifold area, front right, including turbo." I'm not surprised at an oil leak on a 96, any opinions on the possible source and probable repair cost of same?
Really appreciate all the input up to now, this is definitely one of the most helpful forums I've encountered.
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polskamafia mjl
- Posts: 2640
- Joined: 1 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 Volvo 854 T-5R
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The 850's only develop mushy steering/suspension when the suspension components are worn. Who performed the inspection? Many times a quick lube type of place won't know what to look for. If the components are all original I guarentee they need to be replaced.
I don't have a turbo but there is a hose running from the turbo that often leaks oil. I think it's like an oil return line or something. I believe it's pretty easy to do yourself.
That oil residue is probably a result of a clogged PCV system. With the engine running, remove the dip stick and look for smoke. If you don't see any place a balloon or something inflatable over the dipstick and see if it inflates. If there is an positive pressure, i.e. you see smoke and/or the balloon inflates, your PCV is clogged or your flame trap is gummed up.
Are you saying the check engine light turns on during warm up and then turns off after the car is warmed up?
Finally, will you be doing your own work or will you be farming it out to a shop? Volvo's are expensive if you have a shop or dealer do everything for you. If you have the money for that, then great. Otherwise you will want to seriously consider doing your own work, like most of us, or you may want to buy something other than a Volvo.
I don't have a turbo but there is a hose running from the turbo that often leaks oil. I think it's like an oil return line or something. I believe it's pretty easy to do yourself.
That oil residue is probably a result of a clogged PCV system. With the engine running, remove the dip stick and look for smoke. If you don't see any place a balloon or something inflatable over the dipstick and see if it inflates. If there is an positive pressure, i.e. you see smoke and/or the balloon inflates, your PCV is clogged or your flame trap is gummed up.
Are you saying the check engine light turns on during warm up and then turns off after the car is warmed up?
Finally, will you be doing your own work or will you be farming it out to a shop? Volvo's are expensive if you have a shop or dealer do everything for you. If you have the money for that, then great. Otherwise you will want to seriously consider doing your own work, like most of us, or you may want to buy something other than a Volvo.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
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jblackburn
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Ignore the "service" light, I believe that's the one you're talking about. It is there to remind you to change your oil, and can only be reset by a dealer scan tool on the OBDII models. I pulled the bulb out of mine and smashed it.
Your power steering system may just need to have the fluid changed, or the sway bar links may be shot. Remove it with a turkey baster from the reservoir and refill with fresh Dex-III ATF (yes, it does actually take transmission fluid for power steering).
Your power steering system may just need to have the fluid changed, or the sway bar links may be shot. Remove it with a turkey baster from the reservoir and refill with fresh Dex-III ATF (yes, it does actually take transmission fluid for power steering).
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Thanks for the replies.
After I posted the additional questions my wife came home and let me know that she spoke with the inspection guy (she has the BCAA membership so he called her to follow up). He described himself as "a Volvo guy", and I guess his overall opinion is that the car is pretty good. I will call him to follow up tomorrow and try to get a few more specifics.
He said the suspension looked pretty tight. Thanks for the input on the steering.
Regarding the oil leak, he told her that it was hard to tell the source because the engine had been shampooed. Said it might be the valve cover gasket (minor), or more major (my wife thought he said "leaking from the cylinder", but that doesn't make sense to me(?), I'll try and get a clearer picture tomorrow). I'd like to get a better picture about the source of the leak before I buy, but might be hard to do because the car's about a 45 minute drive and I'm unlikely to find a place to take it to tomorrow evening. The guy said he'd take it to the shop tomorrow for an opinion on the leak but he's the seller so not sure how much to put on that.
I guess worse case scenario for the oil leak could be pretty pricy, but probably going to roll the dice and make a deal on the car. Regarding maintenance, I may try to do some stuff myself, but it will go to the shop for most things. I'm aware that the car's going to be more money to maintain, and making it clear to my wife that it will be more money to run/maintain than her old Toyota. We need a wagon, from that era you're looking at Volvo, Subaru - we were also thinking Outback/Forester, but have always liked the Volvos, or Ford - no thanks.
After I posted the additional questions my wife came home and let me know that she spoke with the inspection guy (she has the BCAA membership so he called her to follow up). He described himself as "a Volvo guy", and I guess his overall opinion is that the car is pretty good. I will call him to follow up tomorrow and try to get a few more specifics.
He said the suspension looked pretty tight. Thanks for the input on the steering.
Regarding the oil leak, he told her that it was hard to tell the source because the engine had been shampooed. Said it might be the valve cover gasket (minor), or more major (my wife thought he said "leaking from the cylinder", but that doesn't make sense to me(?), I'll try and get a clearer picture tomorrow). I'd like to get a better picture about the source of the leak before I buy, but might be hard to do because the car's about a 45 minute drive and I'm unlikely to find a place to take it to tomorrow evening. The guy said he'd take it to the shop tomorrow for an opinion on the leak but he's the seller so not sure how much to put on that.
I guess worse case scenario for the oil leak could be pretty pricy, but probably going to roll the dice and make a deal on the car. Regarding maintenance, I may try to do some stuff myself, but it will go to the shop for most things. I'm aware that the car's going to be more money to maintain, and making it clear to my wife that it will be more money to run/maintain than her old Toyota. We need a wagon, from that era you're looking at Volvo, Subaru - we were also thinking Outback/Forester, but have always liked the Volvos, or Ford - no thanks.
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wheelsup
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I don't think valve covers leak on our cars, unlike most. It's not a rubber gasket it is a sealant. So there is nothing to harden and leak.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
Couple things really strike me about this prepurchase situation: Firstly, did u mean to say the BCAA inspection guy IS the seller?
If so, even more reason for a compression test and cooling system pressure test at an independant shop; or regardless, from what i've read (and spoken to volvo indie shops about '98-00 which is what i'm also looking at, though mostly '98), there have been many head gaskets, and coolant into transmission happenings, among other things of course, including valve train issues on the light pressure turbo models and i guess the high pressure t as well.
Incidentally, from what i gather, i've seen many 850/70 pics of engines with the oil seeping at the head, but usually with over 150Kmiles. That would not scare me too much, but if it hints at high temp operations, then all the more reason to not buy unless you have a compression test done, and i'd say cooling system pressure test is possibly even more important, a damaged AT is so expensive to deal with.
I mention this coz i could hear myself in a little bit of your narrative, where I was feeling a bit impatient about the timing of seeing, inspecting, having a lot of trouble finding the time to have it inspected etc... i had all that, and almost bought a major bad dog.
If PCV, brakes, ATF, timing belt, motor mounts, tie rod ends, etc, all need attention within the next 40Kmiles, because none of those have been attended to yet, then that's one of looking at the main value of the purchase, vis-a-vis purchase price. It has to make sense, because ocassionally i am finding some cars that either have been maintained.
Now i'm looking at a '98, but i'm open to 850's too. I need one sedan and one wagon, possibly turbo in the v70 wagon.
If so, even more reason for a compression test and cooling system pressure test at an independant shop; or regardless, from what i've read (and spoken to volvo indie shops about '98-00 which is what i'm also looking at, though mostly '98), there have been many head gaskets, and coolant into transmission happenings, among other things of course, including valve train issues on the light pressure turbo models and i guess the high pressure t as well.
Incidentally, from what i gather, i've seen many 850/70 pics of engines with the oil seeping at the head, but usually with over 150Kmiles. That would not scare me too much, but if it hints at high temp operations, then all the more reason to not buy unless you have a compression test done, and i'd say cooling system pressure test is possibly even more important, a damaged AT is so expensive to deal with.
I mention this coz i could hear myself in a little bit of your narrative, where I was feeling a bit impatient about the timing of seeing, inspecting, having a lot of trouble finding the time to have it inspected etc... i had all that, and almost bought a major bad dog.
If PCV, brakes, ATF, timing belt, motor mounts, tie rod ends, etc, all need attention within the next 40Kmiles, because none of those have been attended to yet, then that's one of looking at the main value of the purchase, vis-a-vis purchase price. It has to make sense, because ocassionally i am finding some cars that either have been maintained.
Now i'm looking at a '98, but i'm open to 850's too. I need one sedan and one wagon, possibly turbo in the v70 wagon.
syrdon wrote:Thanks for the replies.
After I posted the additional questions my wife came home and let me know that she spoke with the inspection guy (she has the BCAA membership so he called her to follow up). He described himself as "a Volvo guy", and I guess his overall opinion is that the car is pretty good. I will call him to follow up tomorrow and try to get a few more specifics.
He said the suspension looked pretty tight. Thanks for the input on the steering.
Regarding the oil leak, he told her that it was hard to tell the source because the engine had been shampooed. Said it might be the valve cover gasket (minor), or more major (my wife thought he said "leaking from the cylinder", but that doesn't make sense to me(?), I'll try and get a clearer picture tomorrow). I'd like to get a better picture about the source of the leak before I buy, but might be hard to do because the car's about a 45 minute drive and I'm unlikely to find a place to take it to tomorrow evening. The guy said he'd take it to the shop tomorrow for an opinion on the leak but he's the seller so not sure how much to put on that.
I guess worse case scenario for the oil leak could be pretty pricy, but probably going to roll the dice and make a deal on the car. Regarding maintenance, I may try to do some stuff myself, but it will go to the shop for most things. I'm aware that the car's going to be more money to maintain, and making it clear to my wife that it will be more money to run/maintain than her old Toyota. We need a wagon, from that era you're looking at Volvo, Subaru - we were also thinking Outback/Forester, but have always liked the Volvos, or Ford - no thanks.
Thanks for the reply. I realize some of the wording in my post was ambiguous, but no, the inspection guy is not the seller. It's not impatience on my part so much as some practical constraints - the car is quite a distance away, way out in the suburbs, I'm not able to get out there until the evenings, so finding a place to do further testing is a bit of a challenge. I've heard a lot of people recommend the BCAA inspection (the one we did), and it looks pretty thorough. They do a pressure test of the coolant system (this one showed fine), also the cylinder balance test (again, not sure if this is provides as much info as a compression test).
I certainly don't want to buy a dog, but feel it's always a bit of a crap shoot with a car that age. I've also had the experience of taking a potential purchase to a mechanics for inspection and getting a very quick once over that wasn't very thorough. The inspection we had done is pretty thorough, but of course is dependent on the experience of the person doing the inspection. The timing belt was done at 130,000 km (car's at 180,000 right now), apart from the oil leak the inspection report looks really good for a car that age, and it's being offered for a good price (about 500-1000$ (Can.) less than I'm seeing comparable ones go for in the local market). Haven't made a 100% decision yet, but leaning strongly towards buying.
I certainly don't want to buy a dog, but feel it's always a bit of a crap shoot with a car that age. I've also had the experience of taking a potential purchase to a mechanics for inspection and getting a very quick once over that wasn't very thorough. The inspection we had done is pretty thorough, but of course is dependent on the experience of the person doing the inspection. The timing belt was done at 130,000 km (car's at 180,000 right now), apart from the oil leak the inspection report looks really good for a car that age, and it's being offered for a good price (about 500-1000$ (Can.) less than I'm seeing comparable ones go for in the local market). Haven't made a 100% decision yet, but leaning strongly towards buying.
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