I think I need new break booster?
There is a loud hissing noise coming from what looks like a small sleeve attached to the piston connecting the booster to the break pedal. The noise goes away during breaking, or acceleration.
Any tips?
Thanks
k
Break Booster Question
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JDS60R
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: 21 February 2009
- Year and Model: 2007 S60R 2016 XC70
- Location: Mount Juliet, TN
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Here you go.
- Attachments
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2003 V70 Brake Booster removal.pdf- (160.09 KiB) Downloaded 301 times
Retired
I did this replacement a couple of months ago, here are a few tips:
-you don't need to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the ABS pump or master cylinder, just remove the 3 bolts that secure the abs pump to the bracket at the inner strut tower. The ABS pump/module can be gently pushed aside to remove the brake booster. It's a tight fit, but can be done.
-the ABS electrical connector is a bit tricky, is a sliding tab type, so takes a little wiggling to get it disconnected.
-you need to remove the hard air intake hose to the turbo, and while this hose is out clean the PCV valve at the end of it as preventive maintenance, is usually clogged up.
-don't buy a used or refurbished unit. A new unit for about $40 more, comes with a new brake pedal sensor, new master cylinder gasket and new brake booster vacuum valve. (save the sensor and valve from the old one). Get the new unit at FCP groton using the link above and get 10% off and free shipping.
-don't forget the master cylinder gasket when you put everything together, or you'll get a vac leak there.
Post back if you have problems.
-you don't need to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the ABS pump or master cylinder, just remove the 3 bolts that secure the abs pump to the bracket at the inner strut tower. The ABS pump/module can be gently pushed aside to remove the brake booster. It's a tight fit, but can be done.
-the ABS electrical connector is a bit tricky, is a sliding tab type, so takes a little wiggling to get it disconnected.
-you need to remove the hard air intake hose to the turbo, and while this hose is out clean the PCV valve at the end of it as preventive maintenance, is usually clogged up.
-don't buy a used or refurbished unit. A new unit for about $40 more, comes with a new brake pedal sensor, new master cylinder gasket and new brake booster vacuum valve. (save the sensor and valve from the old one). Get the new unit at FCP groton using the link above and get 10% off and free shipping.
-don't forget the master cylinder gasket when you put everything together, or you'll get a vac leak there.
Post back if you have problems.
Last edited by jda2000 on 24 May 2010, 07:04, edited 2 times in total.
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dogs silver S60
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 20 May 2010
- Year and Model: S60 2001
- Location: usa
jda2000,
Great Post! Appreciate the info. I'm a fairly good "weekend mechanic". Is this do able by such a person ?
P.S. I'm not saying there won't be a few swear words uttered along the way.
Thanks again.
dogs silver S60
Great Post! Appreciate the info. I'm a fairly good "weekend mechanic". Is this do able by such a person ?
P.S. I'm not saying there won't be a few swear words uttered along the way.
Thanks again.
dogs silver S60
dogs silver,
I am not a mechanic, just a regular guy trying to save money by doing myself.
I got good instructions here www.volvo-forums.com/t11884-brake-booster-replacement.htm
I am not a mechanic, just a regular guy trying to save money by doing myself.
I got good instructions here www.volvo-forums.com/t11884-brake-booster-replacement.htm
Removing the brake booster in a '99 S70 should be about the same. You don't need to disconnect hydraulic brake lines.
Remember the battery is in the engine bay in the '99, not so on the P2 volvos,
Remember the battery is in the engine bay in the '99, not so on the P2 volvos,
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