http://www.gowesty.com/starter_story.htm
[quote]There was one theory that the [no crank] problem had to do with the fact that the ignition switch was physically too far from the starter, and the resulting voltage drop because of the long wire, coupled with the high current demand of the starter solenoid, was so great that there simply was not enough power at the starter to make it GO. On that premise, many people (myself included) tried to remedy the problem by adding a load-reduction relay or Ford-type starter solenoid back near the starter. In fact, the Bosch corporation actually made such a kit (their
740 GLE Electrical Questions
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petershen1984
- Posts: 271
- Joined: 13 October 2003
- Year and Model:
- Location: Taipei
-
petershen1984
- Posts: 271
- Joined: 13 October 2003
- Year and Model:
- Location: Taipei
I gained some electrical insights today when installing my HIDs. Basically my starter is now bypassed from the entire electrical system, so when I crank, the starter runs directly from battery power. My HIDs also bypass the electrical system. They're great!
It just seemed to make no difference when the battery is good, and I was worried of being cheated by the car lot. The "interrupter" in my original post was meant to be translated to "relay."
It just seemed to make no difference when the battery is good, and I was worried of being cheated by the car lot. The "interrupter" in my original post was meant to be translated to "relay."
Peter Shen
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
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