Rear Main Seal Leak 88 760

[DeRail]

Small update, I contacted the folks over at FCP Groton, they said that model #969330K seal kit is compatible with the B280F. Does anyone have any confirmation on this? If so, I'll order it and get this thing fixed up

By the way, for some reason the bends on the right of the condenser are aluminum and the left is copper, I don't understand that one, and unluckily the part that was broken was the aluminum side, so it's time for a new unit. Hopefully there aren't any more leaks in the system *knock on wood* it's starting to get muggy so I'll be glad when I get this thing working

-Darrell

[JP2085]

Hey guys, I am having this exact same problem!! Also have an 88 760 GLE. I feel that it wouldn't run (would run for about 45 seconds then die, but start up after an hour or so) because oil was being slung around the distributor. Does that make sense? Anyway I desperately want to get my Volvo running again and I need to replace these seals. Where do you begin?


Thanks in advance.
Jesse

[DeRail]

Jesse,

I checked my Haynes and it appears that the B230F/FT and B280F engines use the same distributor (from the way the section is worded) so we'll probably be able to use the o-ring from that kit.

As Bill mentioned earlier in the thread, when you removed the distributor cap, was there any oil that came out at that point? If yes, then it's probably that center o-ring that's gone... which is included with the kit on FCP, for ~$3. I think I know where to go from here in my case, I'd just replace the outer o-ring where the distributor meets the head. But in your case, if the internal seal is gone, you'll probably need to do a distributor overhaul, which is detailed in the haynes manual, I can scan it if you don't have one.

Thanks,
Darrell

[JP2085]

Jesse,

I checked my Haynes and it appears that the B230F/FT and B280F engines use the same distributor (from the way the section is worded) so we'll probably be able to use the o-ring from that kit.

As Bill mentioned earlier in the thread, when you removed the distributor cap, was there any oil that came out at that point? If yes, then it's probably that center o-ring that's gone... which is included with the kit on FCP, for ~$3. I think I know where to go from here in my case, I'd just replace the outer o-ring where the distributor meets the head. But in your case, if the internal seal is gone, you'll probably need to do a distributor overhaul, which is detailed in the haynes manual, I can scan it if you don't have one.

Hey partner, I'd greatly appreciate the section in your Haynes manual. If it's not so much trouble for you. And yes, when I opened the distributor initially there was a pool of oil. It's been this way for a while I believe, you can see all the oil coating the engine and there's even more on the left wheel well (you can see in my second pic). I thought it was a bad valve cover gasket but that appears ok. So I believe I've traced my oil leak to here. Appreciate the help.

Jesse

[DeRail]

Hey Jesse, sorry it took me a bit to get this scanned, and I'm not happy with the angle of the scan but it's tough to navigate the book in the flatbed on the scanner

If you need me to try to re-scan it let me know...

Thanks,
Darrell

[DeRail]

Hey guess what, I pulled my distributor cap off today to have a look and it seems I'm having similar issue! It seems as though the lower part of that center seal has given way and when I pulled off the distributor cap, out came the oil!

Blast, I really wanted to get this done today, but I didn't order the darned gasket kit yet and the dealership is closed... hmmm guess I'll have to wrap it back up and come up with a plan of attack.

Update: I pulled off the rotor and the two bolts that secure that cylinder to the block, but when I pulled on it, I realized that it wasn't part of the distributor *sigh*. I wonder if you have to take the valve covers off to get access to this sucker?

Darrell

[DeRail]

Okay, I asked on the UK Volvo Forums because there are a couple of guys with these engines. They said that the part where the rotor attaches to should pull off after removing the allen bolt, you can remove the housing, and then change the seal, which is part # 1218239. You also need to watch out for an easily lost locating pin that comes out when you pull off that metal boss. I'm going to try again today to gain access to the seal by pulling on that metal piece and see where I get.

Update: Got that darned allen bolt free after much cursing and strain and undid the bolts for the distributor housing... got the whole assembly out and there is the prize: the o-ring -- the old one pretty much broke apart in my hand. Got to pick up the new one from Volvo tomorrow, they had to order it for me from the warehouse. Now, I just gotta figure out exactly how the old one comes off and the new one fits on; I can't see how it goes on other than stretching it over the top which I do not want to do. I'll have another look with a fresh set of eyes in the mornin'.

Darrell

[DeRail]

Okay, I've done the repair, this is how I did it, feel free to critique/tweak these to your liking
Thanks Jesse for the pictures, I've reused them in case others need the writeup

Note: I didn't but it would probably make things easier to remove the upper radiator hose and fan shroud, but it's not necessary

1) Mark and remove spark plug wires from distributor cap
2) Remove the 3 bolts (13mm I think) holding on the distributor cap and remove the cap
At this point there's a circular insert that can't be removed until the rotor is removed
3) Remove the three screws securing the rotor, and remove rotor (Picture 3 shows rotor removed)
4) There is an allen bolt securing the piece that the rotor screws into, the rotor boss. It was a pain to get loose but it came loose, this is either a 6 or 8mm allen bit (Picture 3 shows allen bolt that requires removal)
5) You can maneuver the rotor boss around and remove the two bolts securing the distributor housing to the block... do this and pull out the housing. The whole assembly will come out with it. (Picture 2)
6) These two pieces will pull apart, allowing access to the seal (Volvo Part# 1218239). I had to put a socket into the hole and rap it a few times with a hammer, and then it pulled apart, otherwise it seemed impossible. (Pic 1 and 2 show entire assembly still intact)
7) Slide off the seal and apply some oil to the new seal, and slip it on in the same manner.
8. Put the housing between the two pieces and connect them again (they're keyed and only go in one way) (again, 1 and 2 show proper orientation)
9) Installation is reverse of removal.. There's a divot on the end of the shaft which will align with a key on the inside of the engine

Took me a few days but it seems to be running good so far

Darrell

[JP2085]

Can't tell you how much I appreciate that!!!

[DeRail]

No problem m8, let me know how it works for you. I think I still might have a small leak but it's drivable for the moment, I'll have to take another peek at it when I get a moment.

Darrell