Official Engine Stalling Thread
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Secondary Air Injection System Diagram
-
greg'94854
I'm back
I randomly (getting more frequent w/90 deg weather) can't restart my na 850 after short turn off time.(it cranks fine) I depressed shraeder on fuel rail during cranking & no fuel. 5 to 30 min later it may start and run like new.
Today, I put 12v testlite in harness @ pump - no power
I pulled fuel pump relay#130 & had 12v to#15
jumped #15 to #87 and powered fuel pump - starts & stops from ign. key
If I tap relay I get momentary power to pump then zero
I rejumped socket, started engine, pulled jumper, (engine kept running,)
then plugged relay in. Engine running. GO FIGURE
The relay contacts are clean, and it clicks in w/ign. key
I'm tempted to parallel th#15 & #87 w/ pushbutton
I randomly (getting more frequent w/90 deg weather) can't restart my na 850 after short turn off time.(it cranks fine) I depressed shraeder on fuel rail during cranking & no fuel. 5 to 30 min later it may start and run like new.
Today, I put 12v testlite in harness @ pump - no power
I pulled fuel pump relay#130 & had 12v to#15
jumped #15 to #87 and powered fuel pump - starts & stops from ign. key
If I tap relay I get momentary power to pump then zero
I rejumped socket, started engine, pulled jumper, (engine kept running,)
then plugged relay in. Engine running. GO FIGURE
The relay contacts are clean, and it clicks in w/ign. key
I'm tempted to parallel th#15 & #87 w/ pushbutton
-
Guest
Assume you already confirmed it's not your CPS?greg'94854 wrote:I'm back
I randomly (getting more frequent w/90 deg weather) can't restart my na 850 after short turn off time.(it cranks fine) I depressed shraeder on fuel rail during cranking & no fuel. 5 to 30 min later it may start and run like new.
Today, I put 12v testlite in harness @ pump - no power
I pulled fuel pump relay#130 & had 12v to#15
jumped #15 to #87 and powered fuel pump - starts & stops from ign. key
If I tap relay I get momentary power to pump then zero
I rejumped socket, started engine, pulled jumper, (engine kept running,)
then plugged relay in. Engine running. GO FIGURE
The relay contacts are clean, and it clicks in w/ign. key
I'm tempted to parallel th#15 & #87 w/ pushbutton
- matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14472
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
- Has thanked: 2652 times
- Been thanked: 1245 times
- Contact:
Information that should be in this thread:
From https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=4494
Thanks for this info, Dave. Much appreciated.my 98 V70awd occasionally stalled, usually at idle and after being warmed up, it did get progressively worse and would stall more often, some times the engine would start right up other times it would have to rest for a minute or two.Finally it started to cut out while driving but only momentarily. My mechanic (after some time) fixed the problem by replacing the cps. one more note no computer codes came up.
From https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=4494
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post

[color=violet]Hi All,
I think my car hates me
I have a '98 S70 that is having a stall problem and is currently at the mechanics for the 3rd week to try to find a solution. It stalls when idle or at low speeds. Starts back up but will die again. It's a hit or miss with the stalling. Temperature doesn't seem to matter neither does the length of driving. Sometimes it dies right away, sometimes it takes 30-40 minutes, sometimes not at all.
There were codes that came up and I had the following done:
Cleaned dirty TB
Serviced pcv system
Replaced o2 sensors
Checked fuel pump and was ok
Replaced fuel pump relay
Checked fuel pressure and was ok
No more codes come up AND it still dies on me
My mechanic (bless his heart) is on a personal mission to find the culprit. The next step is to replace the air mass meter. From the history, I don't think that will help. I'm losing hope and depleting my budget. Has anyone found a happy ending to this story?
Damsel in Distress in DC[/color]
I think my car hates me
There were codes that came up and I had the following done:
Cleaned dirty TB
Serviced pcv system
Replaced o2 sensors
Checked fuel pump and was ok
Replaced fuel pump relay
Checked fuel pressure and was ok
No more codes come up AND it still dies on me
My mechanic (bless his heart) is on a personal mission to find the culprit. The next step is to replace the air mass meter. From the history, I don't think that will help. I'm losing hope and depleting my budget. Has anyone found a happy ending to this story?
Damsel in Distress in DC[/color]
-
Guest
Also, I forgot to mention...when driving my car at high speeds, it jerks a little.
And before it dies the dash lights up...
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
And before it dies the dash lights up...
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-
Guest
Well howdy everyone. I just thought I'd better get back on and describe the cure for the engine cut out problem.
I have a good mechanic, and he went out of his way to help.
Here goes; He suggested that I leave my car with him for a few days so he could drive it and experience the problem for real. The few days went into a few weeks. Just as puzzled as I was (as to the stall whenever it wanted to) he made it his task to find the problem after it stalled at a set of lights in a city area, and he choked the street traffic for some blocks. I laughed when I heard but he got more determined.
Back at the workshop, he took to the wiring harness to start a process of elimination, but he did it in a smart way instead of one thing at a time (Bullwinkle, that trick never works). Into each wire he inserted a diode bypass so that inside the car was like a christmas tree when it was running. When it stopped it was easy to see which wire was not lit. He tested each time for consistency of the problem. It ends up with the fuel relay being the problem. But beware, there are 3 of them. The one next to the radiator was soldered up by an auto electmagician because the printed circuit looked suspect but after that it still cut out. So the diode lights saved the day. Another relay near the hinges of the bonnet/hood or lid-whatever u like-was the culprit. That was replaced, the car still driven for a few more weeks by him for final proof, and since then I've had no problems at all.
What a relief.
Now how much did that cost you might ask?????
Hows about $99.00 for the part, no labour no storage no nothing except $99.oo.
That is a good mechanic!
Cheers everyone- there's a happy short story!!
Bill
I have a good mechanic, and he went out of his way to help.
Here goes; He suggested that I leave my car with him for a few days so he could drive it and experience the problem for real. The few days went into a few weeks. Just as puzzled as I was (as to the stall whenever it wanted to) he made it his task to find the problem after it stalled at a set of lights in a city area, and he choked the street traffic for some blocks. I laughed when I heard but he got more determined.
Back at the workshop, he took to the wiring harness to start a process of elimination, but he did it in a smart way instead of one thing at a time (Bullwinkle, that trick never works). Into each wire he inserted a diode bypass so that inside the car was like a christmas tree when it was running. When it stopped it was easy to see which wire was not lit. He tested each time for consistency of the problem. It ends up with the fuel relay being the problem. But beware, there are 3 of them. The one next to the radiator was soldered up by an auto electmagician because the printed circuit looked suspect but after that it still cut out. So the diode lights saved the day. Another relay near the hinges of the bonnet/hood or lid-whatever u like-was the culprit. That was replaced, the car still driven for a few more weeks by him for final proof, and since then I've had no problems at all.
What a relief.
Now how much did that cost you might ask?????
Hows about $99.00 for the part, no labour no storage no nothing except $99.oo.
That is a good mechanic!
Cheers everyone- there's a happy short story!!
Bill
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post






