I can add a little something...
The fuel guage is a bit of a trickster. It'll read darn-near empty with 3 or 4 gallons in it. The fuel light will come on when it drops to 2 gallons. My guess? Gas stations are few and far apart up in the frozen tundra of Sweden, so they wanted to make sure none of their countrymen got stuck in the middle of nowhere!
Sounds like you're making good progress!
Where do I start?
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vjaneczko
- Posts: 1550
- Joined: 27 March 2006
- Year and Model: 2006 S60R
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Been thanked: 6 times
Re: Where do I start?
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
I had a similar problem getting my 94 to take more than 15-16 gallons of fuel. There's a venting system that runs from the filler down alongside the neck to the tank. Disconnected it and gave it a good blast of air. A good amount of fluid came out. Must have been overfilled a few times in its life, causing the vent blockage. Tank fills up to the top, 18 gallons now. Also found a few small rubber hoses before and after the roll over valve that had dry rotted badly. Changed those for a couple bucks each from Volvo.
2007 S60R Magic Blue/
2005 S60 2.5 AWD Silver/Black
2001 C70 Coupe HPT black/black 149000 miles
2000 C70 Coupe HPT 132000 miles...SOLD
1994 850 sedan n/a 230000 miles...SOLD
2003 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab
1993 Corvette 40th Anniv Convertible
1960 Corvette
2005 S60 2.5 AWD Silver/Black
2001 C70 Coupe HPT black/black 149000 miles
2000 C70 Coupe HPT 132000 miles...SOLD
1994 850 sedan n/a 230000 miles...SOLD
2003 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab
1993 Corvette 40th Anniv Convertible
1960 Corvette
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jgray850turbo
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 27 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo, 1995
- Location: South Carolina
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks vjaneczko, I'm trying.
Rubyvette, when you were having the fuel issue would it cause your car to run like complete crap right after full up? I wouldn't mind if I could only get 15 gals in if it still ran right. Where did you disconnect from? tank? roll over? It looks like a sealed line to me. But you're right, I still think there may be something wrong with this system, more on that later.
Update: CEL was back by the time I got to work.
1. Checked evap canister, seems fine, air passes through all ports, larger hose on bottom had split end, cut and put back on. 2. Messed with evap purge valve, one by one disconnected hoses and wires, no change in idle but when reconnected sometimes it's making a rapid, light 'popping/sucking' sound, it has vacuum to the canister when warm, but when tested cold it didn't. (I believe that is appropriate? ((just now thinking it should vary based on rpm not temp, I'll have to relook at that))) Anyway,
3. HELP!! In looking for the canister (which I thought was under the battery...which it is, except it's under the body too!!) I found a part that I have no clue what it is. It's connected to the bottom of the battery tray, has two nipples for vac lines and three wires plugging in to it. Problem...there was a hose missing from bottom nipple and I can't find any place near for it to go to. I say near because previously I had found a short hose w/ an elbow on one end lying between the battery and the air box and could find where IT went. So I'm thinking there may be a connection, no pun intended. HELP!! what is it and where does the hose go? Could someone check your good running 850t to find out? You should be able to without even removing the battery, right under the front of the tray you can see and feel what I'm talking about. Anyway,
4. Pull the Idle air valve, check it, rattles freely, looks pretty clean, clean anyway, put back on.
5. Found a short hose on the left end of fuel rail that "looked good" but as I was double checking and moving it saw a definite crack, moving it more it broke off. It was very hard and brittle and when bending it had many cracks. was a pain to get off line as it was baked on. Replaced. Start it up, IMPROVEMENT!! It doesn't race to 2k+ rpms on start before settling down. BUT...still idling rough and slight 'miss'.
6. Drives a bit rough to work today. On way home running better, until I stop at Advanced (for parts for my other broken car. Ha!) Starts crappy, tries to die, get going, smooths out a bit, I'm losing my mind with this psychotic car, get home.
7. Change Oil & Filter because I'm pretty sure I can do that and have a successful result. By this point I need something to boost my confidence.
8. Compression is dead on 150 for all cyl.
9. Plugs are not fouled at all, if anything they seem a bit charred black around the flat bottom of the treads, but the ends are like new.
10. HELP!! Check codes: 2-3-1, 1-5-4, 4-3-6. Clear, pull off maf, no change, throws code, plug back in, no change. Go over engine bay again, look, listen, touch, smell, taste. Hear what seems to be a slight leak in intake? exhaust? Left side of motor, sounds like right behind the alt, ps, idler, I don't know. Can't see or imagine whats there unless a intake leak right on that end, but, will an INTAKE leak make a noise like that? (pah, pah, pah, pah, ect.) HELP!! Ideas?? NOTE: Diagnostic for 4-3-6 involves intake or exhaust leaks, repair as necessary.
11. Go through EGR diagnostic, disconnect wire to controller...no change, disconnect yellow hose from controller...BINGO!!!!! Idle smooths, picks up rpms to 850+/-. Kicking myself for not listening to all the codes before. I think I saw jablackburn's post on cleaning or changing it, and was hoping I wouldn't have to. But, apparently my issue is with the CONTROLLER, right by the top of the fan shroud. So EASY to check, UUUUGGHGHGH! Go for twenty mile test drive...running better than EVER since I've had it (a whole 5 weeks). Kick it down, it pulls 5k smooth and easy.
QUESTION: Can I just keep running it without the EGR controller hooked up?? Is it only an emissions issue?? If I replace the Controller and it starts running crappy once it's hooked up I'm going to be ticked! Believe me, I'm not doing all this for the fun of it, I need this car to just run good and get me to work for now. I've got my wife's 93 LS400 waiting for an alternator and power steering job, FUN!!! Well, this is what coffee at 5:00pm gets you, a rambling idiot.
Please throw ideas if you have any, ESPECIALLY for 2, 3, 10, and 11. Over and out.
Rubyvette, when you were having the fuel issue would it cause your car to run like complete crap right after full up? I wouldn't mind if I could only get 15 gals in if it still ran right. Where did you disconnect from? tank? roll over? It looks like a sealed line to me. But you're right, I still think there may be something wrong with this system, more on that later.
Update: CEL was back by the time I got to work.
1. Checked evap canister, seems fine, air passes through all ports, larger hose on bottom had split end, cut and put back on. 2. Messed with evap purge valve, one by one disconnected hoses and wires, no change in idle but when reconnected sometimes it's making a rapid, light 'popping/sucking' sound, it has vacuum to the canister when warm, but when tested cold it didn't. (I believe that is appropriate? ((just now thinking it should vary based on rpm not temp, I'll have to relook at that))) Anyway,
3. HELP!! In looking for the canister (which I thought was under the battery...which it is, except it's under the body too!!) I found a part that I have no clue what it is. It's connected to the bottom of the battery tray, has two nipples for vac lines and three wires plugging in to it. Problem...there was a hose missing from bottom nipple and I can't find any place near for it to go to. I say near because previously I had found a short hose w/ an elbow on one end lying between the battery and the air box and could find where IT went. So I'm thinking there may be a connection, no pun intended. HELP!! what is it and where does the hose go? Could someone check your good running 850t to find out? You should be able to without even removing the battery, right under the front of the tray you can see and feel what I'm talking about. Anyway,
4. Pull the Idle air valve, check it, rattles freely, looks pretty clean, clean anyway, put back on.
5. Found a short hose on the left end of fuel rail that "looked good" but as I was double checking and moving it saw a definite crack, moving it more it broke off. It was very hard and brittle and when bending it had many cracks. was a pain to get off line as it was baked on. Replaced. Start it up, IMPROVEMENT!! It doesn't race to 2k+ rpms on start before settling down. BUT...still idling rough and slight 'miss'.
6. Drives a bit rough to work today. On way home running better, until I stop at Advanced (for parts for my other broken car. Ha!) Starts crappy, tries to die, get going, smooths out a bit, I'm losing my mind with this psychotic car, get home.
7. Change Oil & Filter because I'm pretty sure I can do that and have a successful result. By this point I need something to boost my confidence.
8. Compression is dead on 150 for all cyl.
9. Plugs are not fouled at all, if anything they seem a bit charred black around the flat bottom of the treads, but the ends are like new.
10. HELP!! Check codes: 2-3-1, 1-5-4, 4-3-6. Clear, pull off maf, no change, throws code, plug back in, no change. Go over engine bay again, look, listen, touch, smell, taste. Hear what seems to be a slight leak in intake? exhaust? Left side of motor, sounds like right behind the alt, ps, idler, I don't know. Can't see or imagine whats there unless a intake leak right on that end, but, will an INTAKE leak make a noise like that? (pah, pah, pah, pah, ect.) HELP!! Ideas?? NOTE: Diagnostic for 4-3-6 involves intake or exhaust leaks, repair as necessary.
11. Go through EGR diagnostic, disconnect wire to controller...no change, disconnect yellow hose from controller...BINGO!!!!! Idle smooths, picks up rpms to 850+/-. Kicking myself for not listening to all the codes before. I think I saw jablackburn's post on cleaning or changing it, and was hoping I wouldn't have to. But, apparently my issue is with the CONTROLLER, right by the top of the fan shroud. So EASY to check, UUUUGGHGHGH! Go for twenty mile test drive...running better than EVER since I've had it (a whole 5 weeks). Kick it down, it pulls 5k smooth and easy.
QUESTION: Can I just keep running it without the EGR controller hooked up?? Is it only an emissions issue?? If I replace the Controller and it starts running crappy once it's hooked up I'm going to be ticked! Believe me, I'm not doing all this for the fun of it, I need this car to just run good and get me to work for now. I've got my wife's 93 LS400 waiting for an alternator and power steering job, FUN!!! Well, this is what coffee at 5:00pm gets you, a rambling idiot.
Please throw ideas if you have any, ESPECIALLY for 2, 3, 10, and 11. Over and out.
-
vjaneczko
- Posts: 1550
- Joined: 27 March 2006
- Year and Model: 2006 S60R
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Been thanked: 6 times
That device mounted to bottom of the battery tray is your cruise control. I believe there's supposed to be one port that isn't connected to anything. The hose you found could be connected to the air pipe near the MAF - there's two hoses that connect to the bottom-side of it.jgray850turbo wrote: 3. HELP!! In looking for the canister (which I thought was under the battery...which it is, except it's under the body too!!) I found a part that I have no clue what it is. It's connected to the bottom of the battery tray, has two nipples for vac lines and three wires plugging in to it. Problem...there was a hose missing from bottom nipple and I can't find any place near for it to go to. I say near because previously I had found a short hose w/ an elbow on one end lying between the battery and the air box and could find where IT went. So I'm thinking there may be a connection, no pun intended. HELP!! what is it and where does the hose go? Could someone check your good running 850t to find out? You should be able to without even removing the battery, right under the front of the tray you can see and feel what I'm talking about.
What are they gapped at? Should be .028jgray850turbo wrote: 9. Plugs are not fouled at all, if anything they seem a bit charred black around the flat bottom of the treads, but the ends are like new.
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
-
jgray850turbo
- Posts: 19
- Joined: 27 June 2010
- Year and Model: 850 Turbo, 1995
- Location: South Carolina
- Been thanked: 1 time
Hi everyone!
I know it's been a while since I started this but I'm bumping this thread to keep all the details and I have some new things to add. First I say THANKS for your help so far. I'm sorry for not keeping up with the results, it's been a crazy time the last 6 months or so.
All through the cooler months the car has done much better. As soon as we started getting some 60+ degree days it's been acting up again. While I still think there is an issue with the fuel system because I NEVER have any pressure when removing the gas cap(yes it's new) and the car idles (and has been running) much better with the EGR controller and EVAP hoses not connected, I have seen a definite trigger to the crapping running issue OTHER than filling up the tank as I first mentioned. If I drive straight A to B it runs fine as long as it never shuts off, even if it's for 3 hours including stop lights and other stops. If it sits for a couple hours or all day while I'm at work it will run fine from B to A. However, if I head out for errands and have to turn the car OFF AND ON a few times, at some point it will do the whole run like CRAP thing upon starting, sputtering, bogging, stalling. If I can get it moving up to speed it will run smooth as long as the rpms are up and it will clear up after several miles. I had only a few occurances like this when the air temp was below 50ish. On a warm day it will fail nearly every time I turn it off and restart. It DEFINITELY seems related to a warm engine AND warm air temps. Any ideas why??
Also, if I'm going hwy speeds and kick it down to pass or go up a steep hill the rpms kind of surge up and down around the 2500-3000 range and the car has little acceleration. Related??
Thanks for taking a look!
I know it's been a while since I started this but I'm bumping this thread to keep all the details and I have some new things to add. First I say THANKS for your help so far. I'm sorry for not keeping up with the results, it's been a crazy time the last 6 months or so.
All through the cooler months the car has done much better. As soon as we started getting some 60+ degree days it's been acting up again. While I still think there is an issue with the fuel system because I NEVER have any pressure when removing the gas cap(yes it's new) and the car idles (and has been running) much better with the EGR controller and EVAP hoses not connected, I have seen a definite trigger to the crapping running issue OTHER than filling up the tank as I first mentioned. If I drive straight A to B it runs fine as long as it never shuts off, even if it's for 3 hours including stop lights and other stops. If it sits for a couple hours or all day while I'm at work it will run fine from B to A. However, if I head out for errands and have to turn the car OFF AND ON a few times, at some point it will do the whole run like CRAP thing upon starting, sputtering, bogging, stalling. If I can get it moving up to speed it will run smooth as long as the rpms are up and it will clear up after several miles. I had only a few occurances like this when the air temp was below 50ish. On a warm day it will fail nearly every time I turn it off and restart. It DEFINITELY seems related to a warm engine AND warm air temps. Any ideas why??
Also, if I'm going hwy speeds and kick it down to pass or go up a steep hill the rpms kind of surge up and down around the 2500-3000 range and the car has little acceleration. Related??
Thanks for taking a look!
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