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cranks but wont start

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 1985 Car & Driver Review: Volvo 740 Turbo
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utecrm
Posts: 5
Joined: 8 July 2010
Year and Model: 1994 850 Turbo
Location: Philadelphia, PA

cranks but wont start

Post by utecrm »

1994 850 140K miles - starting and running great and then out of the blue, won't start, cranks like crazy. New fuel pump about 2 years ago, can hear it prime and smell the gas. Haven't checked the plugs yet but what's odd is that when the battery gets down to barely cranking it almost starts. Small leak at top of radiator passenger side doesnt overheat but it does get some stuff wet on that side..... just remembered I did jump the fuel relay with a paper clip still no go

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Hold the gas pedal straight to the floor and crank it over for 45 seconds-1 minute. Slowly let up, and keep cranking, holding the idle with your foot until it catches on its own. You wouldn't think this would happen to fuel injection cars, but yes, it does happen to these engines (and my old Saab 900) quite often. If this doesn't work, let us know :mrgreen:
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

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anmartin44
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Year and Model: 1994 850 n/a
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Post by anmartin44 »

youre due for second timing belt. check that before you keep on cranking.
1994 850 na green 187k on body, 275k on motor(backwards?), unrestricted airbox, 960 TB, persus wheels, Lowered, IPD poly upper and trans mounts.
1974 144 k-jet m40 satin black, 250k on body, 25k on rebuilt motor(running...usually)

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pkc303
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Post by pkc303 »

I know it is obvious, but are you getting spark? I'd also check the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Could be a clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator. Might explain the almost start thing.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)

tbrewer
Posts: 2
Joined: 8 July 2010
Year and Model: 850 1995
Location: Oregon

Post by tbrewer »

I have been having a similar problem..

170xxx miles on an 850 glt, cranking but wont start after I let it sit for three days.
checked the fuel filter and replaced it, checked my fuel pump and it is pumping strong, checked the fuel lines all the way to my injectors and they are all clear,
after that I checked each individual injector, none of them are clogged.
I then checked for spark, the spark was weak and yellow, leading me to believe it to be the coil, I then replaced the coil today and charged the battery for a couple of hours (not even half way charged, even on a ten amp charge) and tried to start it and it still wouldnt fire.
I am completely baffled as to what it might be.
Its not the cam shaft position sensors or ignition switch, all of that has been replaced recently.

I thought it could possibly be out of timing but I figured that would happen when it was in motion or possibly downshifting in low compression? and finally when I was messing with the fuel filter I had the fuel line unplugged and it started for a few seconds, this was when I replaced the fuel filter..

any input would be greatly appreciated.

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phils94850
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Post by phils94850 »

if you un-hooked the fuel line and it tried to start, sounds like its getting too much fuel. Id check the exact fuel press. at the rail..
1996 Platinum Edition

tbrewer
Posts: 2
Joined: 8 July 2010
Year and Model: 850 1995
Location: Oregon

Post by tbrewer »

thanks for the reply,
could you give me a brief tutorial on how to check the pressure and the proper pressure it should be at?
thankyou.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You'll need a fuel pressure tester, you can find them for pretty cheaply at an auto parts store. Or if you have a tire gauge that you don't want anymore, that will work too, though probably spray you in the eyes...

At the end of the fuel rail is a little blue cap. Unscrew that cap, and there you've got the schrader valve (just like a tire valve) to test pressure with.
Image

With the key on, in position II and the engine not running, you will want to see 43.5 PSI. Running/cranking, you should see around 38.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

meine39
Posts: 147
Joined: 25 July 2007
Year and Model: 1995 850 GLT Wagon
Location: Philly Burbs

Post by meine39 »

To utecrm, did you check for codes using your car's diagnostic port? That's where I would start.

To tbrewer, technically you've hijacked the thread - your issue should be posted in its own thread so that the original poster's issue gets the attention it deserves.
1995 855 GLT 190K NA Auto
1998 BMW 528im 137K
2000 Toyota Camry 78K
2010 GMC Acadia 57K

utecrm
Posts: 5
Joined: 8 July 2010
Year and Model: 1994 850 Turbo
Location: Philadelphia, PA

Post by utecrm »

Thanks for all the posts, tried the holding pedal down as if it was flooded, no go. Its getting spark OK.
Checked the fuel pressure with a tire gauge - it was only about 18 or 20 psi, guess I should check the filter and
regulator where ever they may be....

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