2000 S70 - Question about A/C compressor shim fix

Gatekeeper21 · Post by **Gatekeeper21** » 14 Jul 2010, 08:55

So, I am fairly sure my car is having an issue with the compressor disengaging and then not re-engaging when it should. I am not sure if anyone else has heard about the bread clip shim fix, but I am planning to try that this weekend. My main question, what tool would I use to measure the clutch gap? I have seen that the correct gap should be around .3 -.4 mm. I don't have anything to measure that and was just wondering what I would need to pick up. Would a spark plug gap tool work or do I need something else?

Post by **jblackburn** » 14 Jul 2010, 08:59

Would a spark plug gap tool work or do I need something else?

That's what I was going to suggest actually.

Worked fine for me.

The one I worked on was a '99 though; your 2000 may have a different compressor and the fix may be a little different for you.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 14 Jul 2010, 10:31

You can also pick up a "feeler gauge". That's what I used. Among other things, it can be used to measure spark plug gaps. I don't use mine very often but it comes in handy from time to time. One nice thing about them is you can combine adjacent blades for measuring if needed. Here is one example at Harbor Freight for $2.99:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-s ... 32214.html

I did the bread clip fix on both my 00 V70 and 98 S70 a couple of years ago and they are both still going strong. I am a big fan of simple, cheap, and easy fixes that can save hundreds of dollars.

OBTW, yes the 00 clutch will look different than the ealier models and may require some creative design changes, but in the end it works the same. I ended up buying a plastic "For Sale" sign at Wal-Mart that was the right thickness and cutting out the shape I needed for the shims because the bread clips weren't the right shape. If you read on down the thread about this on Volvospeed, there will be a picture of the an S60 compressor clutch that is the same as you'll find in your 2000 S70. I think the guy used some kind of copper sheet metal for that one

Whatever you use, it will go under those rubber bumpers or spacers.

Gatekeeper21 · Post by **Gatekeeper21** » 14 Jul 2010, 12:08

Awesome, thanks for the tips

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 14 Jul 2010, 13:13

I chuckle every time someone posts questions about the "bread clip fix". When I got ready to do mine, I actually could not find one bread clip in the house

But on my next trip to Wal-Mart (no, I don't own stock - but I do shop there a lot!) I was walking down the bread aisle......

.....well no, I didn't steal bread clips off any loaves or buy multiple loaves just for the clips but the bread delivery guy just happened to be working there. I asked him if he had extra clips and explained what I needed them for. He thought that was pretty cool and so he went all the way back out to his truck and brought me a handful of clips.

Post by **JRL** » 14 Jul 2010, 13:18

When I first read about the bread clip fix, I told my wife to keep all the clips.
I should have several left (I've only had to do this twice) and if anyone needs some let me know
You need 3 per shims per attempt.
It does work and if you're the slightest bit mechanically inclined, it takes 10 to 15 minutes.
The back can be hard, I used a very long screwdriver to finally get it lined up and tapped in.
Then you take a needle nosed pliars and snap the ends off each one once they're tapped down and in

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 19 Jul 2010, 17:31

C@lvin wrote:You can also pick up a "feeler gauge". That's what I used. Among other things, it can be used to measure spark plug gaps. I don't use mine very often but it comes in handy from time to time. One nice thing about them is you can combine adjacent blades for measuring if needed. Here is one example at Harbor Freight for $2.99:

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-piece-s ... 32214.html

I did the bread clip fix on both my 00 V70 and 98 S70 a couple of years ago and they are both still going strong. I am a big fan of simple, cheap, and easy fixes that can save hundreds of dollars.

OBTW, yes the 00 clutch will look different than the ealier models and may require some creative design changes, but in the end it works the same. I ended up buying a plastic "For Sale" sign at Wal-Mart that was the right thickness and cutting out the shape I needed for the shims because the bread clips weren't the right shape. If you read on down the thread about this on Volvospeed, there will be a picture of the an S60 compressor clutch that is the same as you'll find in your 2000 S70. I think the guy used some kind of copper sheet metal for that one Whatever you use, it will go under those rubber bumpers or spacers.

This must be the post you're talking about. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... p__1040333

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 19 Jul 2010, 18:13

Yes, that's the post I was referring to.....

For my 00 V70, however, I didn't access through the wheel well as he describes for the S60. I just reached up from underneath like I did for my 98 S70 after removing the "gravel guard". But the clutch looked the same as the S60 pictures there.

geokilla · Post by **geokilla** » 19 Jul 2010, 20:10

How'd you know where to put it though? Was your car up in the air when you did it or something?

Also, how exactly does the ghetto fix work? My dad's worried that the AC will stay on constantly instead of running on and off like it should, so he refuses to help me do this fix. Assuming I do have a clutch gap, I'm all alone on this fix unless someone can personally help me.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 19 Jul 2010, 20:49

I did mine with the car on ramps. After removing the gravel guard (two screws - one on each side) just lay on your back and look up at the compressor. You can check the gap with a feeler gauge if you're not sure it's out of spec. It's a little awkward to reach it but is quite doable.

If the gap is too large, the clutch will not re-engage each time the compressor is supposed to come on. The common symptom is that the AC comes on at first and works fine but starts blowing warm air after 5-10 minutes. Then if you turn it off for a few minutes and then back on it will work OK again for 5-10 minutes before blowing warm again.

The "official" repair for this problem involves disassembling the clutch and removing internal shim(s) that were installed by the manufacturer. This serves to pull the clutch toward the compressor, narrowing the gap. The bread clip fix is applied from the outside surface where the bread clips push the clutch towrd the compressor to narrow the gap. The clutch is engaged magnetically, so if the gap is too wide the magnetic pull will not be sufficient to engage it.

The only "trick" is to make sure you don't narrow the gap too much - many people have found that the thickness of a common plastic bread clip is the perfect sized shim to bring their gap back into spec.

You really don't have anything to lose by trying it. If you apply the shims without glue and the compressor won't cycle off - then just remove them. If this fixes the problem then go back and put a touch of glue on them and you're done.