Having trouble separating wheel bearing from axle. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Update: Got it! Thanks, though.
Rear Wheel Bearing 2004 XC90
- billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Welcome to Matthew's Volvo Site.
You are the type of member we like - you do it yourself
Seriously can you post how you did it for the future reference of others?
Bill.
You are the type of member we like - you do it yourself
Seriously can you post how you did it for the future reference of others?
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
-
green27614
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 9 July 2009
- Year and Model: 2004 xc90
- Location: Raleigh NC
To replace the rear whel bearings on a 2004 XC90:
Prep steps (trust me on this one it will make your life easier) Do this while the vehicle is still on the ground not jacked up. remove the dust cover from the wheel hub area. you will see a bolt in the center. Using a 14mm deep well socket loosen this bolt only enough to break it loose. Loosen your lug nuts slightly. Jack up the car.
1. Remove tire
2. remove brake caliper(need a 7mm allen key wrench) forget the socket kind there is not enough clearance to use a socket type in there for the bottom one, use a manual l shaped one)
3. remove brake caliper knuckle (this is what the caliper bolts onto) need a 14 mm socket
4. you may have to loosen the ebrake cable to remove the disc. Inside the vehicle - do this by removing the carpeted panel on the drivers side on the center console (it just pulls off).
you will need a pair of vise grips and small channel locks. it is recognizred by being a thick cable with two mechanical adjusters. grab hold of the fixed cable adjuster with vise grips and with the channel locks turn the adjuster counterclockwise for about 10 turns. This will lossen the inner ebrake shooes.
now go back to the outside of the car.
5. you should be able to pull off the disc rotor now. If not, get some penetrating oil like pbblaster and spray around the center and let it sit.
6. after you have let this sit, get a small soft wood block and a hammer and give it a couple of good whacks. It should come off with no problem (or at least a little effort)
7. insert two lug nuts back into the hub. You will need these in place to give you leverage for the next step.
8. using the lug nuts as hold points and using opposing motion with a prybar or long screwdriver, completely remove the bolt you loosened in the prep step with a 14mm socket. This is what holds the spline in place.
9. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the housing with a 17mm? socket
10. the hub should now just drop off to the ground.
11. perform replacement in reverse order.
12 go back inside the vehicle and readjust your ebrake cable to where you only have to use 3-4 clicks to get the ebrake to engage.
TIP: when tightening the axle spline bolt back in. use the lug nut trick and tighten it as much as you can up in the air. Put the tire back on and lower the vehicle down slightly until you can get some good torque on the center nut (Min. 20 NM or 14 ft lbs torque)- remember- this is what hold the wheel hub in place THIS IS IMPORTANT to get it tightened correctly. the final torque is 140NM or 103 foot lbs. Be SURE to use the correct torque for this after the vehicle is fully on the ground and the bearing is loaded.
Hope this helps anyone needing to know how to do this.
Prep steps (trust me on this one it will make your life easier) Do this while the vehicle is still on the ground not jacked up. remove the dust cover from the wheel hub area. you will see a bolt in the center. Using a 14mm deep well socket loosen this bolt only enough to break it loose. Loosen your lug nuts slightly. Jack up the car.
1. Remove tire
2. remove brake caliper(need a 7mm allen key wrench) forget the socket kind there is not enough clearance to use a socket type in there for the bottom one, use a manual l shaped one)
3. remove brake caliper knuckle (this is what the caliper bolts onto) need a 14 mm socket
4. you may have to loosen the ebrake cable to remove the disc. Inside the vehicle - do this by removing the carpeted panel on the drivers side on the center console (it just pulls off).
you will need a pair of vise grips and small channel locks. it is recognizred by being a thick cable with two mechanical adjusters. grab hold of the fixed cable adjuster with vise grips and with the channel locks turn the adjuster counterclockwise for about 10 turns. This will lossen the inner ebrake shooes.
now go back to the outside of the car.
5. you should be able to pull off the disc rotor now. If not, get some penetrating oil like pbblaster and spray around the center and let it sit.
6. after you have let this sit, get a small soft wood block and a hammer and give it a couple of good whacks. It should come off with no problem (or at least a little effort)
7. insert two lug nuts back into the hub. You will need these in place to give you leverage for the next step.
8. using the lug nuts as hold points and using opposing motion with a prybar or long screwdriver, completely remove the bolt you loosened in the prep step with a 14mm socket. This is what holds the spline in place.
9. remove the 4 bolts on the back of the housing with a 17mm? socket
10. the hub should now just drop off to the ground.
11. perform replacement in reverse order.
12 go back inside the vehicle and readjust your ebrake cable to where you only have to use 3-4 clicks to get the ebrake to engage.
TIP: when tightening the axle spline bolt back in. use the lug nut trick and tighten it as much as you can up in the air. Put the tire back on and lower the vehicle down slightly until you can get some good torque on the center nut (Min. 20 NM or 14 ft lbs torque)- remember- this is what hold the wheel hub in place THIS IS IMPORTANT to get it tightened correctly. the final torque is 140NM or 103 foot lbs. Be SURE to use the correct torque for this after the vehicle is fully on the ground and the bearing is loaded.
Hope this helps anyone needing to know how to do this.
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