2001 V70 2.4T bad ignition coil replacement...

apollo5 · Post by **apollo5** » 01 Mar 2010, 12:00

THANKS, GOOD TO KNOW WE'RE ALL NOT NUTS! From what I can see no bad wires, swamped coils and no codes, but still have rough idle and what seems like fuel delivery issue, but so many things are possible culprits. I really wish I did have a code to narrow down issue and not just a flashing CEL. I refuse to give dealer $65 just to say they don't know or worse get a list of repairs at $600 a pop. Looking at the 3130 like yours, does it read most volvo codes?

Post by **E170_Driver** » 01 Mar 2010, 18:36

apollo5 wrote:THANKS, GOOD TO KNOW WE'RE ALL NOT NUTS! From what I can see no bad wires, swamped coils and no codes, but still have rough idle and what seems like fuel delivery issue, but so many things are possible culprits. I really wish I did have a code to narrow down issue and not just a flashing CEL. I refuse to give dealer $65 just to say they don't know or worse get a list of repairs at $600 a pop. Looking at the 3130 like yours, does it read most volvo codes?

When you said rough idle, is your impression that one cylinder is misfiring or a rough idle all together with all cylinders firing?

Jan

jond2 · Post by **jond2** » 10 Mar 2010, 02:56

Great tutorial. I'm now confident I can do this job myself. My 2001 XC70 was just in for a service, was missing badly when cold, and still missing when warmed up. They found the oil filler cap seal had gone, and oil had leaked into the plug tubes. Much better now, but still missing under load. Shop says no error codes, so want to replace all coils. In principle I agree, except here, a coil is NZD$225 each. I see on some USA sites, they can be purchased for $40+, so an option for me is to import them - but if that is too difficult, and I just replace the one for now, how can I find out which coil is faulty?
Jon

1911colt · Post by **1911colt** » 22 Jun 2010, 00:46

to Apollo5 I had the rough idle syndrome a few days ago, turned out it was my MAF, switched it out and the car is back to normal again, I did the process of elimination with the coils but all are good , so I unplugged the MAF and the engine kept running, it should have died immediately, so I replaced the MAF...found all this out reading this forum! It might be woth a shot for ya. Good Luck

jond2 · Post by **jond2** » 22 Jun 2010, 01:06

In the absence of any helpul advice this is what I did to solve my problem of faulty coils:
Engine was only missing under load - so disconnecting each coil expecting a change in engine revs etc wouldn't work.
So I took the cover off, and disconnected each coil in turn, then accelerated up a hill. If the coil was OK, there was a significant change in the engine performamce. If the coil was faulty, there was no significant change.
By this method, I was able to determine that in fact there were two faulty coils.
As recommended elsewhere in this thread, I figured that with the age of the vehicle, I should replace all the coils - which fixed this issue.

Subsequently I had rough idling at startup when cold - traced to a leaky PCV valve which was replaced.

Now I have engine/transmission vibration/shudder under load - seems the bottom engine mounts might be the culprit - upper engine mount has been replaced.

Seems this forum isn't very active - does anybody know a more active forum?

Thanks

Jon

shamrockontour · Post by **shamrockontour** » 12 Jul 2010, 20:28

I dont usually have the nerve to tackle anything too elaborate when it comes to my 2002 S60, but after this post, with the tremendous pictures I decided to give it a go. I followed all the instructions, in fact I went ahead and replaced all the spark plugs, as well as the ignition coil in question (#4).The "slow down or shift up message" went away, the car stopped stuttering.
Great job, thank you, thank you, thank you!

shamrockontour · Post by **shamrockontour** » 09 Aug 2010, 10:47

My 2002 s60 died on the way home. The shop said I needed 5 new spark plugs, replace ignition coils 2 and 3, and a new cam sensor. ($765), Anyways, 5 new plugs, 2 new ignition coils, and a new cam sensor later, which I did my self thank to this post, it not only seems to still be misfiring but also revs by itself, and wont rev past 2000 rpm when I put my foot on the accelerator??????? After 3 minutes it still doesnt show an error message. Will it make it to the auto zone for a dignostic?

buddyjim · Post by **buddyjim** » 28 Nov 2010, 14:18

Thanks to this tutorial I was able to replace the spark plugs in my 2004 V70i in about 40 minutes. Thanks much.

motor1947 · Post by **motor1947** » 29 Nov 2010, 14:33

Great info and pics. Also in love/hate w/2001 V70. Front end work on mine. New axles, control arms and ball joints. I bought the car in June this year w 136k on it and now it has 143k. Bought it for a daily commute of about 80 miles round trip. First Volvo and love this car. Looks great and fun to drive. Getting a lot of good info from MVS also.

mgambuzza · Post by **mgambuzza** » 12 Mar 2011, 19:07

Saturday night, a long day at work, time to escape, and with the roads now dry time to put the pedal to the metal and.....

studder, studder, studder, Check ENGINE, studder, studder

I was in horror - how could this happen and my reliable T5 let me down. I plugged in my code reader and it read the dreaded P0303 code - time to go to Matthews' web site. In it I easily found this article, and for the minimal cost bought the coil pack. Within 30 minutes I isolated and verified by pulling the terminal on coil 3, nothing, then coil 4, major chugging. I removed coil 3, bolted on the replacement, started up and immediate resolution!! I was ecstatic!!

For the cost of $58 (even though AutoZone tried to sell me additional Torx bits), 10min of research, and 30min of labor I am back in the saddle! Another great example why Matthews is THE place to go when you're having issues with your Volvo.

Thank you - Thank you!!

2001 V70 2.4T bad ignition coil replacement...

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