I went to Independent Volvo Service in Pasadena (http://www.independentvolvo.com/). He drove it few miles and did the stop-start test for the stop-neutral. He also tried to replicate a bunch of other situations. I don't remember what, but he said one part is the one that usually goes bad in the trans and that this one wasn't displaying symptoms characteristic of that. I did a full drain-fill and the fluid was a bit dark and a 2nd partial which came out cleaner, so hopefully I got some junk out. It does shift noticeably faster now, but it still clunks on occasion. I don't notice any slip.
He didn't rob me, he told me I didn't need work done and showed me how I could get my sunroof fixed cheaper than he could do it.
Yet another transmission problem thread
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Diagnosing Bad Engine Mounts
you did not read my previous post fully or did not understand it.
If the fluid was "LIKE CHOCOLATE" the flush removed the fluid that was free flowing oil. What about those internal components bathed in chocolate fluid, they are still covered with chocolate.
That's why I suggested the drain and fill x 3 procedure. So, you did a drain and fill already and the fluid was dark after a complete flush. What does that tell you about those internal components not being lubricated fully with the new fluid yet.
A bad B4 servo cover leads to clunky downshifts/upshifts especially between 2nd and third. Replace it and see what happens.
Maybe the damage is severe already, but you don't know that yet.
If the fluid was "LIKE CHOCOLATE" the flush removed the fluid that was free flowing oil. What about those internal components bathed in chocolate fluid, they are still covered with chocolate.
That's why I suggested the drain and fill x 3 procedure. So, you did a drain and fill already and the fluid was dark after a complete flush. What does that tell you about those internal components not being lubricated fully with the new fluid yet.
A bad B4 servo cover leads to clunky downshifts/upshifts especially between 2nd and third. Replace it and see what happens.
Maybe the damage is severe already, but you don't know that yet.
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
I agree now with all.
Do another drain and fill and check the b4 servo (cheap) but you STILL need to have the adaptors reset
Do another drain and fill and check the b4 servo (cheap) but you STILL need to have the adaptors reset
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
You told me to drain / fill, and I've done that twice now. What am I missing? It's not my car, it's not like I can just get up and go do it. I'll look into this servo thing, but I've never worked on transmissions before (my mechanics is pretty much limited to motorcycles).jda2000 wrote:you did not read my previous post fully or did not understand it.
I asked a simple question: how does the trans behave if it's going out? I'm baffled at the overwhelming hostility in this thread.
Titan LE : S60 2.4t : 91 325i : Spec E30 #33
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
You still missing what I said
Have the adaptations reset.
What this means is (to do this properly) is go to a Volvo dealer (unless your mechanic has VIDA) and have everything cleared out by Volvos computer.
Disconnecting the battery for half hour will get most of them cleared, but it's not a guarantee that all will reset to 0
Then this drive cycle I mentioned must be done (takes 15 minutes) for the transmission to relearn how to function.
Remember this is after all your drain and fills, your checking the B4 servo, and having the latest software installed.
Then the adaptions need to be reset, etc etc.
This is the correct way to try to make a glitchy tranny function properly.
It may be toast, it may not!
Until you do everything I mentioned, you will not know for sure.
Have the adaptations reset.
What this means is (to do this properly) is go to a Volvo dealer (unless your mechanic has VIDA) and have everything cleared out by Volvos computer.
Disconnecting the battery for half hour will get most of them cleared, but it's not a guarantee that all will reset to 0
Then this drive cycle I mentioned must be done (takes 15 minutes) for the transmission to relearn how to function.
Remember this is after all your drain and fills, your checking the B4 servo, and having the latest software installed.
Then the adaptions need to be reset, etc etc.
This is the correct way to try to make a glitchy tranny function properly.
It may be toast, it may not!
Until you do everything I mentioned, you will not know for sure.
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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billr99
- Posts: 117
- Joined: 28 March 2009
- Year and Model: 2002 V70XC
- Location: Western Head, Nova Scotia
If your fluid was as bad as it sounds, two drain-and-fills aren't going to cut it. When I first did mine, and my original fluid wasn't brown, it took an entire case of fluid and a bit (i.e. 4 drain-and-fills) to get the fluid clean. I then drove it about 5000 kms and did it again. I now do a routine drain-and-fill every 40K kms. I also did the B4 cover even though my tranny was just outside the serial number range of the affected units and that helped immensely.
So do another drain-and-fill, drive it around a bit, and do another. If that doesn't get the fluid a nice translucent red colour, do it again until you do get it. You might also want to consider adding a Magnefine filter once you get things cleaned up. Finally, once you get this done it might takeso,me time to get decent shifting unless you have the adaptation cycle done as JRL suggests. The tranny learns but it is a slower leaner and it can take some miles before it is working the way it should once the fluid is clean.
Good luck,
Bill
So do another drain-and-fill, drive it around a bit, and do another. If that doesn't get the fluid a nice translucent red colour, do it again until you do get it. You might also want to consider adding a Magnefine filter once you get things cleaned up. Finally, once you get this done it might takeso,me time to get decent shifting unless you have the adaptation cycle done as JRL suggests. The tranny learns but it is a slower leaner and it can take some miles before it is working the way it should once the fluid is clean.
Good luck,
Bill
'05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-235K kms to-date
'02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-375K kms to-date
And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (Volvo (8), VW (6), MB (1), Audi (3), BMW (2), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Porsche (2), Opel (1), MG (1), Mini (2), Sunbeam (1))
'02 V70XC (Ash Gray)-375K kms to-date
And a whole tonne of other Euro stuff (Volvo (8), VW (6), MB (1), Audi (3), BMW (2), SAAB (5), Land Rover (4), Porsche (2), Opel (1), MG (1), Mini (2), Sunbeam (1))
I noticed every time I drain / fill it's WAY better. I think this thing is salvageable. We just drove 630 miles to the Monterey Historics and back (awesomeness!) and it only had one mild clunk. I've got 3 qts and am going to drain fill that much again tonight. I'll disconnect the batt while I do it, thx for the advice.
Titan LE : S60 2.4t : 91 325i : Spec E30 #33
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
Why would you disconnect your battery, that will reset 90% of the adaptions.
I don't think you have a clue what the correct drice cycle is that you need to do afterwards, if you just drive off that could make things worse.
It's a specific drive cycle to set the adaptions properly, I will try to get it for you tomorrow.
It requires that you drive off with the lightest foot imaginable, thru the gears to 1500 RPM, then stop then go up through the gears to 2000 RPM, then 2500, etc. but there are several other things that you have to do along the way in a specific order and I don't recall them exactly and in which order you need to do them.
I don't think you have a clue what the correct drice cycle is that you need to do afterwards, if you just drive off that could make things worse.
It's a specific drive cycle to set the adaptions properly, I will try to get it for you tomorrow.
It requires that you drive off with the lightest foot imaginable, thru the gears to 1500 RPM, then stop then go up through the gears to 2000 RPM, then 2500, etc. but there are several other things that you have to do along the way in a specific order and I don't recall them exactly and in which order you need to do them.
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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