Eric again in Orlando Fl
89 245 NA
AT with 250 k on the odometer now.
I read a few posts about the in tank pum and relay.
Bill sent me a 240 relay diagram once and it notes a "FUEL INJECTOR" relay in the right side of the car behind the black valance by the passenger's seat.
Are they one and the same?
Here is my issue.
1. Replaced the in tank pump and the large fuel filter three years ago.
2. I ran the car very low to no fuel on a few occasions since then. (I know... bad for the in-tank pump) and I may have killed it prematurely.
3. My summer time hard to start-when-hot (engine or just ambient temp) is gone since I replaced the crank pos sensor.
4. Last weekend I drove the car low on gas... swapped cars with the wife Sat night as I needed hers for towing and she drove mine from work to home on the same 1 gal of gas I left her. (Remember this was Saturday... one week ago)
5. Sunday car sat...
6. Monday morning on my way to work I stop (very low on gas) at a RACETRACK gas station I gas up periodically and get to work on a full tank of regular... Nothing out of the ordinary. Driving home that evening from work, the car cuts out at two traffic lights. Starts back up.
7. Tuesday morning the car cuts out three times on the way in and I am rear ended thet third time around. stopped at a light (1st car) and then the light turns green. Step on the gas, hesitant and it cuts out and I had no speed, no momentum and the impatient lady behind me wreked her car... I'm impressed my my volvo rear bumper.
The car cuts out for one more day until we dicide it is very unsafe and I parked the car and we have been a one car couple since then. After reading several posts about the pump and the relay... I purchased the following items from FCP and started to repair today.
(parts: furl pump relay, new in tank pumo and screen, new under cariage fuel filter, new plugs, new bosch wires, new bosch cap and rotor)
The car sat since Wednesday night and for some strange reason the batter was dead this morning. Nothing different as on the weekends, my car usually sits and we use the wifes car.
Anyhow…
I have to be in at work in a little while so I only had time to replace plus, wires, cap and rotor with the fuel pump relay.
Jumped the car with hers and the battery was dead, dead, dead… Car started up but quits… Jumped it again and while still connected to her car and both running, the 240 stumbles.. like it wants to cut out… Unhook the cars and sure enough after a little it cuts and will not start on its own.
It is obvious that the battery needs a full recharge… (Purchased new from SEARS about 5-6 months ago.)
I need to charge the battery and see if it cuts out but my next step is the pump and filter.
Is there anything else I should look for?
I did not check for spark yet but will do that later on, but again, I need a live battery for that.
Does anyone know what else I should look into?
It is strange how this only presented itself after filling the tank but I would imagine that if it were the pump, it would have dies altogether like it did on my wife’s v70 back in March. I replaced her pump and bingo… car started right up.
I am relocating to Jupiter Fl from Orlando within the month and getting no $$$ assistance from the employer so no relo paid here and I am counting pennies to make this happen and the family is going ahead of me as school starts next week and I have a commitment with my current employer to train my replacement before I start my new job.
Please help!
89 240 (Bad Gas? Bad Fuel Pump Relay? Pump or what?)
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Volvo_240_Atari_2600
- Posts: 245
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 89 245 GL
- Location: Jupiter, Florida
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Volvo_240_Atari_2600
- Posts: 245
- Joined: 11 February 2007
- Year and Model: 89 245 GL
- Location: Jupiter, Florida
This totally sucks.
Replaced the following:
plus, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump relay and I just got done with the new in-tank fuel pump and still...
Car starts, runs for 3-5 minutes and cuts off... Next ttempt to start starts, then cuts off and sometimes may need a minute or two waiting to start again.
I cannot drive it like this, obviously.
What next?
I was going to check the the OBD under he hood but everytime I try to primt the PDF doc. this one doc in particular seems to disable my printer.
Thanks
Eric
Replaced the following:
plus, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump relay and I just got done with the new in-tank fuel pump and still...
Car starts, runs for 3-5 minutes and cuts off... Next ttempt to start starts, then cuts off and sometimes may need a minute or two waiting to start again.
I cannot drive it like this, obviously.
What next?
I was going to check the the OBD under he hood but everytime I try to primt the PDF doc. this one doc in particular seems to disable my printer.
Thanks
Eric
Hi Volvo_240_Atari_2600,
Here is the procedure for checking and erasing the Diagnostic Trouble Codes on the reader under the hood next to the strut tower.
Control function 1 Fault Tracing
Open the diagnostic socket cover and connect the selector cable to pin no.2 to test the ignition side.
Turn the ignition to position II.
Enter control system 1 by depressing the button once.
Depress the button for at least 1 second, but not more than 3.
Watch the light diode and count the number of flashes in the three flash series indicating a fault code. The flash series are separated by a three second interval, making them easy to read. Have a pencil and paper ready to record the DTCs.
Make a note of the fault codes.
If no fault codes are received by the diagnostic unit, the diode will flash 1-1-1 and the fuel system is operating correctly.
Check to see if any fault codes are stored in the memory.
Depress the button again. Make a note of any additional fault codes.
Depress the button a third time to see if a third fault code is stored in the memory.
If the code received when the button was depressed the first time is repeated, there are no other codes in the memory.
NOTE! The diagnostic system memory is full when it contains three fault codes. Until those three are rectified and the memory is erased, the system can not give indication of any other problems.
The fault code key below shows the fault Indication codes.
Fault code key
1-1-1 No faults
1-1-2 Fault in control unit (Change control unit )
1-1-3 Fault in injector (Break in lead, clogged, etc.)
1-2-1 Signal to/from air mass meter is faulty
1-2-3 Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor, possible grounding short
1-3-1 Ignition system rpm signal missing
1-3-2 Battery potential too low or too high ( Check battery and charging system )
1-3-3 Shutter switch; idle setting faulty, possible grounding short
2-1-2 Lambda-sond signal missing or is faulty.
2-1-3 Shutter switch; full load selling faulty, (possible grounding short)
2-2-1 Lambda-sond not operating.
2-2-3 Signal missing to/from idle valve.
2-3-1 Self adjusting Lambda-sond not operating.
2-3-2 Self-adjusting Lambda-sond not operating
2-3-3 Idle valve closed.
3-1-1 Signal missing from speedometer.
3-1-2 Signal missing for knock related fuel enrichment.
3-2-2 Combustion cleaning of hot wire in air mass meter not operating.
Connect the selector cable to pin no. 6. to test fuel injection side, and repeat as above.
Erasing Diagnostic memory
Once all fault codes have been read and the faults corrected, the diagnostic system memory is erased as follows:
1. Switch on the ignition to position II.
2. Read the fault codes again.
3. Depress the button more than 5 seconds. Release the button. After 3 seconds the diode should light up.
4. Depress the button again for more than 5 seconds. After releasing the button the diode should stop shining.
To check that the memory is erased, depress the button once for more than 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
Flash series 1 - 1 - 1 denotes erased memory.
Start and run engine. Go for a 15 to 20 minute drive. This will completely warm up the heated O2 sensor and ensure that the engine management system is running in closed loop mode.
Turn off engine
Check if new fault codes have been stored in the memory
1. Turn on ignition to position II.
2. Depress the button once for more than 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
If the flash series 1-1-1 comes up, there are no additional fault codes.
Hope this helps,
Brandon in Franklin, TN
Here is the procedure for checking and erasing the Diagnostic Trouble Codes on the reader under the hood next to the strut tower.
Control function 1 Fault Tracing
Open the diagnostic socket cover and connect the selector cable to pin no.2 to test the ignition side.
Turn the ignition to position II.
Enter control system 1 by depressing the button once.
Depress the button for at least 1 second, but not more than 3.
Watch the light diode and count the number of flashes in the three flash series indicating a fault code. The flash series are separated by a three second interval, making them easy to read. Have a pencil and paper ready to record the DTCs.
Make a note of the fault codes.
If no fault codes are received by the diagnostic unit, the diode will flash 1-1-1 and the fuel system is operating correctly.
Check to see if any fault codes are stored in the memory.
Depress the button again. Make a note of any additional fault codes.
Depress the button a third time to see if a third fault code is stored in the memory.
If the code received when the button was depressed the first time is repeated, there are no other codes in the memory.
NOTE! The diagnostic system memory is full when it contains three fault codes. Until those three are rectified and the memory is erased, the system can not give indication of any other problems.
The fault code key below shows the fault Indication codes.
Fault code key
1-1-1 No faults
1-1-2 Fault in control unit (Change control unit )
1-1-3 Fault in injector (Break in lead, clogged, etc.)
1-2-1 Signal to/from air mass meter is faulty
1-2-3 Signal missing to/from coolant temp. sensor, possible grounding short
1-3-1 Ignition system rpm signal missing
1-3-2 Battery potential too low or too high ( Check battery and charging system )
1-3-3 Shutter switch; idle setting faulty, possible grounding short
2-1-2 Lambda-sond signal missing or is faulty.
2-1-3 Shutter switch; full load selling faulty, (possible grounding short)
2-2-1 Lambda-sond not operating.
2-2-3 Signal missing to/from idle valve.
2-3-1 Self adjusting Lambda-sond not operating.
2-3-2 Self-adjusting Lambda-sond not operating
2-3-3 Idle valve closed.
3-1-1 Signal missing from speedometer.
3-1-2 Signal missing for knock related fuel enrichment.
3-2-2 Combustion cleaning of hot wire in air mass meter not operating.
Connect the selector cable to pin no. 6. to test fuel injection side, and repeat as above.
Erasing Diagnostic memory
Once all fault codes have been read and the faults corrected, the diagnostic system memory is erased as follows:
1. Switch on the ignition to position II.
2. Read the fault codes again.
3. Depress the button more than 5 seconds. Release the button. After 3 seconds the diode should light up.
4. Depress the button again for more than 5 seconds. After releasing the button the diode should stop shining.
To check that the memory is erased, depress the button once for more than 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
Flash series 1 - 1 - 1 denotes erased memory.
Start and run engine. Go for a 15 to 20 minute drive. This will completely warm up the heated O2 sensor and ensure that the engine management system is running in closed loop mode.
Turn off engine
Check if new fault codes have been stored in the memory
1. Turn on ignition to position II.
2. Depress the button once for more than 1 second but not more than 3 seconds.
If the flash series 1-1-1 comes up, there are no additional fault codes.
Hope this helps,
Brandon in Franklin, TN
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Retired MVS Contributor
The problems you are having are characteristic of a corroded fuel injection fuse...This fuse is not in the driver's door post, it is out in the ngine compartment on the left fender...It is right behind the battery next to a couple of relays...It is not a cartridge type fuse like all the others in the fuse box, it is a 25 amp blade fuse...It is exposed to the elements out there and becomes corroded and intemittent...
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