850 140k Major Maintenance

jj- · Post by **jj-** » 08 Aug 2010, 12:25

Thanks, Lee. I did this job Friday afternoon and Saturday. Really great instructions. One curious thing to mention. I bought a new tensioner, and the pin was in the wrong direction. I put a 5" C-clamp on it, took the pin out, and put it in the right direction.

ekimak · Post by **ekimak** » 18 Aug 2010, 17:25

I have just replaced the timing belt, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and water pump. Everything went well until I put the front cover of the timing belt on and ran the car. The timing belt runs over the edge of the tensioner pulley, water pump and idler pulley but about 3 mm. and rubs the inside of the timing belt cover making an ugly noise.

Any suggestions?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Aug 2010, 17:47

Where did you source the parts?

There are a ton of counterfeit INA tensioner rollers floating around and they will cause the belt to track way off of the center of the pulleys.

...Lee

ekimak · Post by **ekimak** » 18 Aug 2010, 18:44

They are from FCP Groton. The water pump is Hepu, the tensioner is Febi, the idler pulley is #9146693 and the tensioner pulley is #9135036 both with no names visible on them.

ekimak · Post by **ekimak** » 18 Aug 2010, 18:50

Sorry, the tensioner is #9146693 and the tensioner pulley is #9135036.

rcannon · Post by **rcannon** » 21 Aug 2010, 18:21

Is there any way to judge the age of the belt? I have a 97 850 bought used with no records with probably 160K (had the odometer broken for over a year). It appears somebody did the job I was going to do not that long ago. The water pump is new with the same sticker I have, and the belt appears very new. There's a little rust on the idlers etc. The belt still has the paint on the outside and looks moist like a new one.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Aug 2010, 05:46

My rule of thumb is that, without evidence that the belt has been changed and without further evidence as to what the true mileage of the car is, I error on the side of caution and at least put a new belt on. With the 4 Volvos in my fleet it has been job 1 on all of them (Even the S70 was not clocking mileage due to a bad ABS module).

While you are replacing the belt it gives you an opportunity to evaluate the rest of the components. The tensioner and idler roller bearings should turn smoothly and the tensioner itself should put up a fight to re-compress it. The water pump will take a bit of force to break it loose initially but it should turn smoothly after that.

For me at least $25.00 and a half a days work is worth it for the piece of mind.

...Lee

creativefilmcars · Post by **creativefilmcars** » 25 Aug 2010, 15:43

Great write up. It was extremely helpful. Just a note of caution from recent experience. The mark on the time belt pulley on the crankshaft has a mark on it smaller than a pimple on a mosquito's ass. It a wee nick on inboard edge of valley. Get a strong light and some young eyes to find it. The marks on the serpentine belt pulley are very misleading.

rcannon · Post by **rcannon** » 05 Sep 2010, 23:53

Well I just did my 97 850 GLT. I used a piece of 3/4 tube steel and vice grips for the tensioner tool. I had to grind off a bit but it worked well. You really do have to cut the belt to remove it. I tried to remove it and couldn't. I was even afraid I'd have to remove the crank pulley. There is a pin with rubber on it at the bottom for some reason that gets in the way. But it did go on OK, pushing the belt around the end of the pin. I could see where the last person tried to pull off the pulley and broke some of the grooves. I did mark the old belt between cam pulleys and made sure the new one was the same, which was a good idea because there was some slack because apparently the exh had moved slightly. But the front side was taught. All lined up well after pulling the pin. The crank timing mark was on the pulley, not in the cog base. It lined up with the mark on the engine housing. I didn't remove the spark plugs. It wasn't very hard to turn with a ratchet. I used the starter to turn it mostly. I was able to use a 1/4 ratchet, 5/16 socket with the T45. I finally found a good use for my new 10mm box end ratchet wrench on the bolts for the lower belt guard. I replaced everything except the water pump which had been replaced and had the good pump just like I was going to put in. I have 142K miles showning plus at least a year of running with broken odometer. Now I can sleep at night. The above photos etc was very helpful and much appreciated. Thanks.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Sep 2010, 14:39

Thanks for the excellent DIY. I am adding this picture of the Timing Belt layout for reference:

: VolvoTiming Belt01.jpg (134.81 KiB) Viewed 3437 times

850 140k Major Maintenance

Re: 850 140k Major Maintenance