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2001 S80 Front suspension work

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
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LordGimmik
Posts: 8
Joined: 21 April 2010
Year and Model: S80, 2001
Location: Norwood

2001 S80 Front suspension work

Post by LordGimmik »

Hi All,

I have a 2001 S8 (non turbo) that needs some front end work. I just failed an inspection because of it. I just purchased four new tires and the mechanic that installed them noted the work that needs to be done. I simply don't have the $1,500 price tag they wanted to do it. I was checking online and the parts seem to only be about $200, and I'll probably need about $300 - $400 worth of new tools to do the work, but I'm willing to give it a shot.

Anybody that read my thread on the difference between European and Chinese bulbs knows I'm new to the World of auto mechanics. I was hoping this thread could be an open discussion about the whole process and I can also update everybody on my progress as I go. It might end up being a good reference for the next complete rookie to needs front end work. I'm willing to document my process and take photos as I go.

To get things started, this is what the mechanic at Firestone said I needed:
* Tie rod ends ( left and right inner)
* Ball joint (lower front right)
* Sway bar link kit

So - Does this sound consistent with a 10 year old Volvo that has only had the bare minimum maintenance to keep it running for the first 9 years of its life? How can I confirm that these are the parts that need to be fixed? I currently have access to a jack and jack stands, I also have basic hand tools. If I move forward with this project I will be buying a quality socket set, torque wrench, and other required tools. I consider them an investment because not only will I save a ton of money doing my maintenance myself, but I found that I find it very fun getting my hands dirty (scrubbing them clean... not so much fun...)

igel513
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Year and Model: 2003 S60 T5
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Post by igel513 »

I got my sway bar links w/c was German made and looks to be heavy duty compared to the OEM,and inner tie rods from FCP and am satisfied w/ the quality. It was an easy job but be sure to use your mekanix gloves to protect your knuckles and fingers.

vegasjetskier
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Post by vegasjetskier »

This post should have some info that will help you, although it's not the exact job you will be doing: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=15872
.

SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.

Help this site: Amazon.com link

LordGimmik
Posts: 8
Joined: 21 April 2010
Year and Model: S80, 2001
Location: Norwood

Post by LordGimmik »

So - dumb question, but I'd rather not die this weekend... Where do I place the jack stands after I jack up my front end? I found the correct place on the frame for the jack, but I'm not sure where to position the stands for maximum stability. My can-guy friend called me "Nancy" when I told him I wanted to use stands.

vegasjetskier
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Post by vegasjetskier »

LordGimmik wrote:So - dumb question, but I'd rather not die this weekend... Where do I place the jack stands after I jack up my front end? I found the correct place on the frame for the jack, but I'm not sure where to position the stands for maximum stability. My can-guy friend called me "Nancy" when I told him I wanted to use stands.
If you're going to jack the car up with the Volvo jack, I'd put the jackstand under the subframe mount point. It's where the floor jack pad is in this photo: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view
.

SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.

Help this site: Amazon.com link

LordGimmik
Posts: 8
Joined: 21 April 2010
Year and Model: S80, 2001
Location: Norwood

Post by LordGimmik »

vegasjetskier wrote:If you're going to jack the car up with the Volvo jack, I'd put the jackstand under the subframe mount point. It's where the floor jack pad is in this photo: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view
I have a floor jack similar to the one in your picture. I can see your jack stand behind it. What's is the stand bracing against in that picture? Is it just against the metal channel that runs inline with the subframe mount point? Also, what is baring the weight in this picture, the jack or the stand? I assume one is holding up the car and the other is there for backup.

One more question :) I just changed my oil and found a small amount of metal on the magnet just as in your picture. Is that normal or does it indicate a problem? I'm considering getting a compression testing kit since I have no idea about condition of the engine.

vegasjetskier
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Post by vegasjetskier »

LordGimmik wrote:
vegasjetskier wrote:If you're going to jack the car up with the Volvo jack, I'd put the jackstand under the subframe mount point. It's where the floor jack pad is in this photo: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &mode=view
I have a floor jack similar to the one in your picture. I can see your jack stand behind it. What's is the stand bracing against in that picture? Is it just against the metal channel that runs inline with the subframe mount point? Also, what is baring the weight in this picture, the jack or the stand? I assume one is holding up the car and the other is there for backup.

One more question :) I just changed my oil and found a small amount of metal on the magnet just as in your picture. Is that normal or does it indicate a problem? I'm considering getting a compression testing kit since I have no idea about condition of the engine.
The jackstand is under the area where you would place the Volvo jack if you were using it. The weight is on the floor jack - the jackstand is just there in case the floor jack fails.

It's normal to have some metal on the magnet. I wouldn't worry about it.

PS: Ignore your friend's criticism of your use of jackstands. A friend of mine saved one of his neighbors when his car fell on him when he didn't use them. His neighbor is lucky my friend was outside and saw it happen. He was able to run over and reposition the jack to lift the car off of him.
.

SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.

Help this site: Amazon.com link

LordGimmik
Posts: 8
Joined: 21 April 2010
Year and Model: S80, 2001
Location: Norwood

Post by LordGimmik »

Hi Everybody,

I wanted to try to get under my car and poke around last weekend, but Mother Nature has other plans. Since I need to get this work completed ASAP so I can get an inspection sticker I figure I should just order the parts FireStone suggested. They probably could have added a few extra things without me being suspicious, like the left balljoint along with the right. So I'm guessing their recommendation is probably accurate.

My latest question is this: Is there anything else I should replace while under there, and only need to purchase one alignment? Is there merit in replacing both ball joints, or do you really only need to replace one at a time? What else should be replaced to make sure my front end is in good shape for a long while.

As always, thanks for your support and guidance.

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