Loud ticking noise from engine - sometimes

Post by **JRL** » 18 Apr 2007, 05:12

luketrash wrote:Is it easy to get in there and change the o rings?

I haven't really been under my 850 much.

It's a messy job more than a complicated job, 2 to 3 hours

dejongmc · Post by **dejongmc** » 18 Apr 2007, 10:33

It there a writing somewhere how to replace the O-rings.

Howmany are there to replace?

Post by **JRL** » 18 Apr 2007, 11:51

[edited]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/repairs.php

[edited]

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... 0460#20460

[I want this place to be and remain an anger-free zone. I appreciate everyone's efforts on making it so. -- Matt]

dejongmc · Post by **dejongmc** » 18 Apr 2007, 15:00

JRL, thanks for your nice reply.
Makes we really feel welcome on this board.

Post by **JRL** » 18 Apr 2007, 17:44

dejongmc wrote:JRL, thanks for your nice reply.
Makes we really feel welcome on this board.

Well, you keep asking and asking without looking....

Trilarry · Post by **Trilarry** » 21 Apr 2007, 18:31

What's with the attitude JRL? I've noticed a trend here, I know I'm not the only one. Let's remember who we are, a help forum that people would like to return to.
Tri

zanzabar · Post by **zanzabar** » 22 Aug 2010, 16:26

Is the injector noise something you would FEEL through the fuel rail?

icelandic · Post by **icelandic** » 22 Aug 2010, 17:23

It appears that your problem are the oil pan o-rings. If you want to be sure, I sugget you do this, which is avery old fashioned way of locating the source of noises. Get a wooden stick about 1X1/2 and 2.5 feet long, and put one end firmly against the place were you think the noise is coming from, taking care to stay away from moving parts. In thiscase first check the injectos by pacing one end of the stick as close as you can to the injector. Put your ear against the other end of the stick, cupping your hand over it. You will clearly hear the noise "in detail". Change the position of the stick until you zero in on the source. Injectors do tick, but not that much. On the 850, sometimes people forget to repalace a small rubber washer (it´s not the injectors o-ring) that go in the bottom of each injector´s cavity in the fuel rail. WThe purpose of these rubber washers is exactly isolating the contact of the injectors outer casing with the metal on the rail to decrease noise transmited by the injectors internal pulsating needle.
Now I have never seen injectors ticking so loud that you can hear them from a distance. At 150k miles, it is probably oil related, pointing to oil pan o-rings which cause a loss of oil pressure and the lifter ticking. If using the wooden stick you conclude it is not the injectors, save for bad valves or something like that (unusual in these cars when properly maitained) fingers point to the oil pan o-rings. Short of doing the job, you could try a heavier oil like 10w40 or 15 w 40. If it goes away, it´s the o-rings. Unless you have good tools and are mechanically inclined, I suggest you have it professionaly done by someone who knows Volvo. The parts you need cost $12, and the liquid gasket sealant that has to be used to put the pan back on is around $20.

crh · Post by **crh** » 22 Aug 2010, 20:47

There's been so much discussion about the causes/fixes of & for lifter noise... this is something like the 3rd thread in a week about it... o-ring kits for the oil sump, new lifters, oil additives, synth vs. dino, heavy vs. light weight oils, worn injector noise doubling for ticking lifters, oil lights (LP warning) coming on at idle signifying leaky oil sump o-rings, no LP warning light on but ALSO critically low oil pressure at idle causing insufficient pressure to keep ANY lifters quiet, old lifters and new lifters BOTH ticking form low OP at idle, worn oil pumps causing lifter tick, you name it... me cranium is spinnin'!

Can I put this question to ya, Jim? ...in yer opinion, what would cause something like this, using an example I know best... my XC: 142k 1998 V70 XC, a re-occurance (see below) of off-again, on again moderate to loud lifter ticking while (warm) idling, especially after several minutes of idling... 'fixed' by swapping in 20 OEM lifters *for about 6 days*... yesterday I heard, while idling after a mild 11 miles cruise with my kids to a local restaurant, loud lifter ticking, exactly the same type of sound- same pitch, place, tone, etc... no oil light has gone on, ever- at least since I've owned it. Super premium gas only, again, since I took the keys in March.

Since I started hearing the ORIGINAL lifter ticking that I began to really notice around 5k ago, it's had the Lucas treatment, and I've been running 5w-30 semi-synth every 2500 miles since I bought it... but, since new,previous owner (two owners since new, including me), had run dino oil, 5w-30, also changed religiously with a Mann OF every 2500 miles... in the last 6k miles, a full PCV/oil trap done, K&N, new ignition stuff: plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, coolant system flush, new fuel filter, new timing belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioners, guides, new serpentine belt.. everything else inspected by *3* different shops since I bought it (I moved across the country, twice); threw a CEL with a code (forgot to write down the specific code, stupid me), showing 2 misfires on the way out from CA in April, bad coil was the culprit, but as I said, the wires, cap, rotor and plugs were all changed out for OEM at that point. All work's been done by Volvo-certified indie garages with *stellar*, almost UNANIMOUS 5-outta 5 stars from all area customers...

the 0-rings on the oil sump nor the injectors have ever been replaced, to my knowledge and according to the huge ring binder of on-time dealer maintenance records (reputable, as much as any one can be, heh), that came with the car this March when it had 129k... WTF do I do *now*? I'm asking you because, well, frankly, I trust YOUR opinion more than my mechanic's!

UPDATE: The mechanic's given m a choice... one, have them do the o-ring job gratis... if that fixes it, great. If NOT, then the mechanic thinks that it has to be the lifter 'pockets' in the head; these design tolerances are apparently extremely tight, and a little wear there and the lifters can move around, or so he says... he said he didn't measure those lifter pockets for wear when he changed out the lifters because he could see no apparent wear marks at all on either the lifters or the head's lifter pockets... when I checked the dipstick (at this point, I think the REAL <dipstick> may be *me*), after driving and idling for awhile, with the engine running but with NO ticking at the time (couldn't get it to do it when I needed it to, of course), it had absolutely no bubbles in the oil on the dipstick at all...

Should I take the free o-ring job and take my chances, or have them just do the head swap (for a good, Magnafluxed XC head) and work out how we're gonna divvy up THAT big 'ole bill... jeez. I think if I keep the lifters, and put the P&L for the entire lifter job towards the head job, then work out a 'lil 'payment plan' for the difference between the head swap and the lifter job that's already been done, I might could live with that- ASSUMING IT FIXES THE LIFTER TAPPING.

What do you guys think? *winces, breathes deep, presses 'Submit'*

Post by **j_cd** » 23 Aug 2010, 00:42

Do the fuel injectors have solenoids inside that would make them tick if they're going bad? Otherwise I don't see how a fuel injector could make a ticking sound. Mine don't appear to have any moving parts. More likely it is indeed air getting into the oil lifter tube due to worn o-rings, causing the valve lifters to be starved for oil and tick. Or a worn hydraulic lifter as someone mentioned. I'm bringing the car to my Volvo mechanic for this problem, when I get it running again that is. I don't want to destroy a valve.