Saw the link to the tool. Problem is that it is a female star on the end of the tool. Too tight to be successful with any of your suggestions. Heading out now to see if there is a hidden bolt somewhere but even so, more than likely will not be able to access it with "normal" tools. If it is this difficult to locate a tool to release the serpentine belt, I can not imagine what it is going to be like to remove and re-install the alternator. Think I am going to order a Haynes Manual and see what they suggest.
Thanks again for your help.
2001 S80 Tool for serpentine belt removal
Still did not find the proper tool but was able to secure a pair of vice grips to the torx 60 bit. Got the belt off and back on and am
now going to decide if it is worth the trouble to attempt replacing the alternator myself.
If anyone comes up with the correct tool to use to release the tension mechanism for the serpentine belt I would appreciate hearing about it. The vice grips worked but I was barely able to get the belt off and on due to the tight fit.
Thanks for your comments.
Rib
now going to decide if it is worth the trouble to attempt replacing the alternator myself.
If anyone comes up with the correct tool to use to release the tension mechanism for the serpentine belt I would appreciate hearing about it. The vice grips worked but I was barely able to get the belt off and on due to the tight fit.
Thanks for your comments.
Rib
Guess no one know the answer to the serpentine belt removal question. I can't believe no one has run into this same situation with a 2001 Volvo S-80. I know the Volvo engineers have been accused of all sorts of idiotic designs but I would think if they came up with the alternator belt tension mechanism they would have come up with something to release it other than a pair of vice grips and a Torx 60 bit. I have been to Naapa and Advanced Auto Parts and neither have the tool needed to release the serpentine belt tension mechanism.
Anybody have any suggestions.
Anybody have any suggestions.
I am working on the car now. Tried accessing the center bolt cap from above and can not get it off. Too tight to get a screw driver in position to pop it off. Tried good old vice grips and a smaller flat head screw driver but the angle is bad and the cap will not come off. The cap did move a bit but refuses to come off. Is there a special tool needed to pull the plastic cap??????????
I have now pulled the right front wheel. After removing the wheel I thought I would be able to access the serpentine belt tension mechanism from the bottom to get the plastic cap off. I removed what looked like a metal access panel on the wheel well but behind it was more of the fender wheel well. I am unable to pull the mud shield from under the fender to gain better access as the plastic mud shield under the right front fender appears to have been riveted on.
Saw another post where someone paid $450.000 to have the alternator replaced, which is my ultimate goal. (I have not priced having the alternator done by the pros but am assuming it is going to run between $400.00 and $600.00.) Thought I would be able to pull the alternator with little effort and possibly have it repaired and/or replace it if it can not be rebuilt. I had done this on my first Volvo which was a 1969 station wagon and it was pretty easy. Have also done it on my Dodge Caravan and that too was pretty easy.
Am I getting over my head if I can't even get the cap on the center bolt off? I think that if I can get comfortable with the
serpentine belt problem I can handle the alternator but am starting to have second thoughts.
How did you get the center bolt cap off given the extremely tight space between the tension mechanism and the computer housing box?
Fortunately for me, I am not relying on the S80 for transportation at this time and can afford to take my time though at some point I am going to have to get it back on the road.
Sorry for the long post and thanks again for your input.
RIB
I have now pulled the right front wheel. After removing the wheel I thought I would be able to access the serpentine belt tension mechanism from the bottom to get the plastic cap off. I removed what looked like a metal access panel on the wheel well but behind it was more of the fender wheel well. I am unable to pull the mud shield from under the fender to gain better access as the plastic mud shield under the right front fender appears to have been riveted on.
Saw another post where someone paid $450.000 to have the alternator replaced, which is my ultimate goal. (I have not priced having the alternator done by the pros but am assuming it is going to run between $400.00 and $600.00.) Thought I would be able to pull the alternator with little effort and possibly have it repaired and/or replace it if it can not be rebuilt. I had done this on my first Volvo which was a 1969 station wagon and it was pretty easy. Have also done it on my Dodge Caravan and that too was pretty easy.
Am I getting over my head if I can't even get the cap on the center bolt off? I think that if I can get comfortable with the
serpentine belt problem I can handle the alternator but am starting to have second thoughts.
How did you get the center bolt cap off given the extremely tight space between the tension mechanism and the computer housing box?
Fortunately for me, I am not relying on the S80 for transportation at this time and can afford to take my time though at some point I am going to have to get it back on the road.
Sorry for the long post and thanks again for your input.
RIB
OK, crammed my hands between the tension mechanism and computer module housing box and was able to remove the cap.
Used a very small flat head screwdriver.
Low and behold, there is another star behind the cap. Once I determine the size it looks like I should be able to access this a little better and release the tension on the serpentine belt.
Plan on purchasing a Hanes Manual to figure out how to remove the alternator.
Any suggestions on the alternator removal would be much appreciated.
RIB
Used a very small flat head screwdriver.
Low and behold, there is another star behind the cap. Once I determine the size it looks like I should be able to access this a little better and release the tension on the serpentine belt.
Plan on purchasing a Hanes Manual to figure out how to remove the alternator.
Any suggestions on the alternator removal would be much appreciated.
RIB
-
ed7
- Posts: 207
- Joined: 3 September 2010
- Year and Model: V70XC 2005, 2001
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
- Has thanked: 2 times
The Haynes manual is always worth the $18 if only for the pics. Get one soon, don't wait for the movie.
The alt does take a little time. Power steering pump moved aside, intake comes off, then alt is down there. Clean out the 'Flame Trap' while you're down there. Some say the intake gasket may be reused, get a new one to be safe.
I replaced the voltage regulator on my V70 alt without pulling the intake, but it wasn't fun.
Reg at the starter/alt shop was about $80 compared to $140 at the name brand parts house.
Check the repair database the top of the page. Also Howard's Volvo maintenance site http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/ is a good resource.
That pulley would have a bolt with a 13mm head holding it on the tensioner bracket, under the center cap. You'ld normally put a breaker bar on it and pull it forward to relieve the tension.
ED7
The alt does take a little time. Power steering pump moved aside, intake comes off, then alt is down there. Clean out the 'Flame Trap' while you're down there. Some say the intake gasket may be reused, get a new one to be safe.
I replaced the voltage regulator on my V70 alt without pulling the intake, but it wasn't fun.
Reg at the starter/alt shop was about $80 compared to $140 at the name brand parts house.
Check the repair database the top of the page. Also Howard's Volvo maintenance site http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/ is a good resource.
That pulley would have a bolt with a 13mm head holding it on the tensioner bracket, under the center cap. You'ld normally put a breaker bar on it and pull it forward to relieve the tension.
ED7
-
Beachbum
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 25 August 2010
- Year and Model: 2001 S80 2.9
- Location: Hillsborough, NJ USA
Here's how I do it...
I bought a T60 Torx bit that came in a 1/2" drive socket. But the socket it came with was too long to put a ratchet wrench on and fit it in there. So I removed the Torx bit from the socket by putting it in a vise and banging it out with a hammer and punch.
Then I put the Torx bit into a 12mm 3/8" drive socket (use a regular depth socket) which is much shorter than the large 1/2" drive socket the bit came in. I then tape the Torx bit to the 12mm socket with a piece of duct tape so it doesn't fall out when you turn it sideways. Now you can use a long-handled 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and it will fit in there (a long-handled wrench gives you more leverage on the tensioner.)
Not overly elegant but it does the trick. Good luck.
PS -- You do not have to remove any "center cap", etc. to release the belt tension. Just do as above. Sounds like what you are doing is trying to disassemble the tensioner...you don't want to do that! And see my next post in this thread for how to remove the alternator.
I bought a T60 Torx bit that came in a 1/2" drive socket. But the socket it came with was too long to put a ratchet wrench on and fit it in there. So I removed the Torx bit from the socket by putting it in a vise and banging it out with a hammer and punch.
Then I put the Torx bit into a 12mm 3/8" drive socket (use a regular depth socket) which is much shorter than the large 1/2" drive socket the bit came in. I then tape the Torx bit to the 12mm socket with a piece of duct tape so it doesn't fall out when you turn it sideways. Now you can use a long-handled 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and it will fit in there (a long-handled wrench gives you more leverage on the tensioner.)
Not overly elegant but it does the trick. Good luck.
PS -- You do not have to remove any "center cap", etc. to release the belt tension. Just do as above. Sounds like what you are doing is trying to disassemble the tensioner...you don't want to do that! And see my next post in this thread for how to remove the alternator.
Last edited by Beachbum on 11 Sep 2010, 22:34, edited 1 time in total.
-
Beachbum
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 25 August 2010
- Year and Model: 2001 S80 2.9
- Location: Hillsborough, NJ USA
Oh, and here are instructions for removing the alternator. It's not hard. I replaced mine with a Bosch rebuilt for $200, you can find it cheaper on the internet. BTW, these instructions are a subset of instructions that I posted on VolvoForums.com for replacing the oil seals on the oil trap. But you have to remove the alternator to get to the oil trap.
1. Make sure car has been off for at least 5 minutes and remove negative battery cable.
2. Release tension on belt tensioner and remove serpentine belt off the alternator.
3. Unlatch and lift up the power steering reservoir. Do not remove any hoses.
4. Loosen (but do not remove yet) the metal hose on the power steering pump. Do not remove the rubber hose.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket (use a socket through the pulley holes).
6. Place a rag over the alternator to catch any drips, and now remove the metal hose from the pump. Don’t worry…the fluid will not gush out. Just maybe a few drips if any.
7. Place the power steering pump on top of the engine with the hole facing up. The fluid will not leak out. Cover it with a rag to keep dirt out.
8. Cover the end of the metal hose with a suitable rubber cap if you have one, or I just used a plastic sandwich bag with a rubber band. Tie the hose out of the way, toward the driver’s side. I used a small bungee cord which worked well.
9. Remove the 2 wires on the alternator. The small one just pulls out, the big one has a nut (pull off the plastic cap first). Move the wires out of the way.
10. Loosen (but do not remove) the 2 bolts on the bottom of the AC compressor. Back them out a few turns each.
11. Remove the 2 bolts on the top of the AC compressor. These 2 bolts also hold on the alternator.
12. Remove the one bolt at the top of the alternator (located near the pulley) and remove the alternator. I took it out on the left side of the radiator hose. You’ll have to turn it to get it out. You can also push on the radiator hose a bit to add clearance.
20. Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. Torque value for the 4 long AC/alternator bolts, one bolt at top of alternator, and the 3 power steering bolts is 18 lbs. ft. (or 25 NM). And don’t forget to cover the alternator with a rag when you reconnect the power steering hose, to catch any drips. It’s best to reconnect the metal power steering hose fitting hand tight before you install the PS pump on the bracket. Then once the pump is fully installed you can tighten the nut securely.
21. Before reconnecting the negative battery cable, turn the key to the #2 position (II). Then reset the electrical system (sunroof, power door locks, etc.) by unlocking the car with either the key fob or the key.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck.
Beachbum
1. Make sure car has been off for at least 5 minutes and remove negative battery cable.
2. Release tension on belt tensioner and remove serpentine belt off the alternator.
3. Unlatch and lift up the power steering reservoir. Do not remove any hoses.
4. Loosen (but do not remove yet) the metal hose on the power steering pump. Do not remove the rubber hose.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump to the bracket (use a socket through the pulley holes).
6. Place a rag over the alternator to catch any drips, and now remove the metal hose from the pump. Don’t worry…the fluid will not gush out. Just maybe a few drips if any.
7. Place the power steering pump on top of the engine with the hole facing up. The fluid will not leak out. Cover it with a rag to keep dirt out.
8. Cover the end of the metal hose with a suitable rubber cap if you have one, or I just used a plastic sandwich bag with a rubber band. Tie the hose out of the way, toward the driver’s side. I used a small bungee cord which worked well.
9. Remove the 2 wires on the alternator. The small one just pulls out, the big one has a nut (pull off the plastic cap first). Move the wires out of the way.
10. Loosen (but do not remove) the 2 bolts on the bottom of the AC compressor. Back them out a few turns each.
11. Remove the 2 bolts on the top of the AC compressor. These 2 bolts also hold on the alternator.
12. Remove the one bolt at the top of the alternator (located near the pulley) and remove the alternator. I took it out on the left side of the radiator hose. You’ll have to turn it to get it out. You can also push on the radiator hose a bit to add clearance.
20. Reassembly is basically the reverse of the above. Torque value for the 4 long AC/alternator bolts, one bolt at top of alternator, and the 3 power steering bolts is 18 lbs. ft. (or 25 NM). And don’t forget to cover the alternator with a rag when you reconnect the power steering hose, to catch any drips. It’s best to reconnect the metal power steering hose fitting hand tight before you install the PS pump on the bracket. Then once the pump is fully installed you can tighten the nut securely.
21. Before reconnecting the negative battery cable, turn the key to the #2 position (II). Then reset the electrical system (sunroof, power door locks, etc.) by unlocking the car with either the key fob or the key.
Hope this is helpful. Good luck.
Beachbum
-
ed7
- Posts: 207
- Joined: 3 September 2010
- Year and Model: V70XC 2005, 2001
- Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
- Has thanked: 2 times
Nice step by step Beachbum
Here are some pics I found.
http://turbobil.com/SMF/index.php/topic,37.0.html
http://turbobil.com/SMF/index.php/topic,36.0.html
Party on
ED7
Here are some pics I found.
http://turbobil.com/SMF/index.php/topic,37.0.html
http://turbobil.com/SMF/index.php/topic,36.0.html
Party on
ED7
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