Front Wheel Bearing

dtropnevad05 · Post by **dtropnevad05** » 16 Sep 2010, 11:02

Do I need to change the bolts? The hub Kit from the dealer comes with new bolts, but with only 26 ft-lb plus + 90* on the axle bolt and only 33 ft-lbs + 60* on the hub bolts why do you need to change them. I'm going to use blue lock-tight on all of the bolts.

Now onto the bearing I bought, it may or may not be the OEM bearing. The seller said it is and here is a link to the auction (added link below) tell me what you guys think.
The idea of installing a aftermarket hub does not bother me and the price was seventy bucks cheaper then the dealer was going to charge me. However the idea of posting a pic of the bearing sitting on a OEM box is what has my undies in a bind. So what do you guys think? The seller has 99.6% feed back rating could this be a a hub kit from Volvo?
The plastic bag the bearing is in from the dealer has "ORIGINAL VOLVO PART" all over it. However the bag the bearing is in that I was shipped does not have any writing, also it did not come with the new blots like the one at the dealership. I'm going to do the install this Saturday tell me what you guys think, should I send it back and get the one from the dealer or install the one I have.

Don

dtropnevad05 · Post by **dtropnevad05** » 17 Sep 2010, 00:49

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWNX%3AIT

This is what the seller sent me.
Yes, it is OEM, just like the auction states. This is from A European dealer where I receive ALL of my OEM parts.

Post by **dcarlson12** » 18 Sep 2010, 12:20

I think bearings are all pretty much the same. I didn't put in new bolts. Just loctited them. Don't remember if I used red or blue. You can see my comments in a procedure that someone else posted. Pretty sure my bearing was a 'European' brand.

dtropnevad05 · Post by **dtropnevad05** » 18 Sep 2010, 22:42

I used the blue Loctite as you do not need heat to remove the bolt like you do with red.
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)

All went well until I tried to get the ball joint to go back in. I tied the caliper to the strut spring but after the second failed attempt the caliper fell and ripped the boot

. No I have to find a new boot or buy a new (rebuilt) caliper. I found some on e-bay but they are in California and will take a week to get to me. If it's not one thing it's another.

Don