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New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures
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t5ftw
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Re: New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures

Post by t5ftw »

I see my people praise synthetic. Just to make sure before I order synthetic fluid for my 99 S70 T5 4 spd AT.
I only see Mercon at the back of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF bottle, and the following notice
"Mobil DEXRON-VI ATF is recommended for 2006 and newer GM vehicles and improved performance in 2005 and earlier vehicles, wherever DEXRON is specified."
So, my question is ok to use it in place of DEXIII/MERCON?

Retired MVS Contributor

Post by Retired MVS Contributor »

I used the Gibbons method posted on the XC forum...By using the top radiator port instead of the bottom one, you don't have to be a contortionist to get to the lower cooler line and you don't get a face full of tranny fluid when you pull the line out and let the cooler drain on the floor...With the Gibbons method you don't slip the tygon tube onto the transmission line, you jam it into the radiator's top transmission cooler port...I don't think IPD was wrong but their instructions are a bit ambiguous and can be misinterpreted... They do tell you that the direction of flow was reversed in 2001...

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

For the 93-2000 models, use the top cooler port. It's much easier. The flow is reversed through the cooler in the 2001-newer models.

Yes, I have been running Mobil synthetic in mine for more than a year, and it's fine for the transmissions. I love it.

If your fluid is super dirty, you might want to buy 15 qts of fluid - 12 was barely enough for me. The cheap Dex-III stuff at Advance or Walmart works good as a flusher.

P.S. Don't get it on your shoes. It stinks for days.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

t5ftw
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Post by t5ftw »

I think mine is overfilled about 1/8" above 'Cold' full line. When I measured this, engine had been turned off for four hours. So, it was still warm to touch. Is this something that I should take care of immediately? When I read 'Hot' side, it is at min mark.

redbrick
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Year and Model: 2005 V50 T5 AWD
Location: Spencerport, NY

Post by redbrick »

t5ftw wrote: "Mobil DEXRON-VI ATF is recommended for 2006 and newer GM vehicles and improved performance in 2005 and earlier vehicles, wherever DEXRON is specified."
So, my question is ok to use it in place of DEXIII/MERCON?
Was there ever a conclusion about this? I know the DexIII is OK in my 99V70. What about the Dex -IV?
94 - 940
97 - 850 T5
99 - V70 GLT
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shiloh51933
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Post by shiloh51933 »

redbrick wrote:
t5ftw wrote: "Mobil DEXRON-VI ATF is recommended for 2006 and newer GM vehicles and improved performance in 2005 and earlier vehicles, wherever DEXRON is specified."
So, my question is ok to use it in place of DEXIII/MERCON?
Was there ever a conclusion about this? I know the DexIII is OK in my 99V70. What about the Dex -IV?
Yes Dex IV should be fine, it's supposed to be better, I use Mobile 1 myself. These automobiles should get nothing but the best, there high quality/technology machines. To me it's worth the extra dough, same goes with all the fluids I use on mine, including nothing but premium fuel at the pump.
If U Wanna Play U Gotta Pay!!
Present Volvo Ownership:
2008 Volvo XC90 V8 Black
2004 Volvo XC70 OEM-HID model Silver
Previously Owned Volvo:
1996 Volvo 850 GLT Silver
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
1998 Volvo V70XC Dark Blue
2000 Volvo V70XC/SE Dark Blue
2004 Volvo XC90 T6 Gold

v70invan
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Post by v70invan »

A quick question to MadeInJapan or any other experienced tranny flushers:

I've got a 2000 V70 2.4L, non-turbo. Takes JWS 3009, I know.

I would like to be able to replace my own ATF because the shop charges way too much. However, I do not have access to car ramps, drain pan, driveway, to be able to do this part of the flush. So my question relates to how important is it to first drain using the drain plug before continuing with the radiator hose method? What are the advantages/disadvantages to draining using the plug versus not, and only flushing using the radiator intake? Can I skip the drain plug and go straight to flushing using the hose?

Thank you!

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

You can, and I have done it via just the cooler hose without draining the pan. You still get the majority of old fluid out that way. I believe, however, that that model transmission runs the fluid in reverse - from bottom to top. I know the newer models do, anyway, hopefully someone that has one can confirm that. In the scenario, you would still likely need the ramps to get up underneath and disconnect that hose. At least on my T5, there's tons of other junk in the way of getting to that bottom hose; you might have a bit more room to work with on the NA.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


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MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I'm in agreement with jablackburn... Not sure of your model...mine is a '98. My wife's '04 has the lines running backwards, so investigate so you don't make a mess- but I think yours is the same as my wife's. Anyway, depending on how old the fluid is, I would recommend a drain and fill (if over 100K miles and never changed) and not even do the flush. If you decide to do the flush, it you really don't need to drain and fill at all- that's just an extra precaution and way to get more of the old stuff out to begin with before starting the flush. You will need to locate the drain plug- it's to the side of the transmission at the rear (towards back of the car). It is easily accessible and uses the same aluminum washer as your oil drain plug. You will need some way to raise the car up...the plastic ramps are cheap and strong- you can get them at any auto parts store.
Hope this helps.
MIJ
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
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v70invan
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Post by v70invan »

Well, gentlemen and ladies, I have to report back and contribute to this forum so that we all may learn.
Again, I have a 2000 V70 2.4L non-turbo FWD automatic transmission (AW 55-50).

I did the modified transmission flush this weekend. The reason I wanted to do it was because I had a hard "knock" during down shift 2-1, and harsh engagement during upshift from 1-2. (yes, had the TCM software updated and adaptation done, still no solution, and no codes being thrown) So I had a tranny fluid change at a shop about a week ago, and had to BEG the guy to put JWS 3309 in it because all he kept saying is "we just use Dexron VI for everything". :oops: Anyway, convinced him to replace 8 litres of Mobil JWS 3309 in it and he did. Still no change, the knock down is still there and prevalent. Although he said the fluid wasn't filthy, but was getting around the time to change it.

So this weekend, after not wanting to pay for more work at the shop I did the flush myself (WITHOUT the drain pan drain as I don't have ramps or much space). In addition, I contacted the folks at Royal Purple (I run their synthetic 5W-30 motor oil) to make SURE without hesitation, and to get in writing that their Max ATF fluid was good in my Aisin tranny. I got it in writing, and did a flush of 12 quarts through it, without doing the drain-plug drain, ONLY the upper radiator hose flush method.

Note: to those wondering, my car has the green clip attachment at the hose (not the metal clamp) and the fluid runs top to bottom, and is not reversed like on newer models.

Anyway, Royal Purple Max ATF it was, 2 quarts at a time, just like the instructions say. Double checked to make sure fluid was at correct levels, shifted through the gears at each 2 quarts. 12 quarts went fast. Double checked the fluid level when done. Reconnected hoses, and took for a very light drive. And guess what... the knock during downshift and upshift slowly went away. It has been 1 day, I have driven about 60 km, and tried HARD to make it knock: took my usual route to work, went up and down hills, slow decelerations, fast decelerations, slow accelerations, fast accelerations, and nothing. Silent and smooth as new.

So what happened? What got fixed? I don't know. The fluid that came out during my flush looked very clean. All I know is I put Royal Purple Max ATf in it, and it's good as gold. The 1 quart bottle clearly says, as does the email from Royal Purple, that it is specifically well suited to my Aisin (specific model type transmission) and fully compatible with 3309.

My cost= $120 including ATF, hoses, containers, funnels, and rags. Shop charges me $300 for a 3309 change. Never again.

Thank you to all who contributed to this post and this website for sharing their knowledge. Especially to MadeInJapan and jablackburn for answering my questions. I hope someone else is able to learn from my post, even a little bit. A donation on my part to this website is coming.
Thanks again.

EDIT: I'm not saying anyone should use Royal Purple Max ATf in their transmission. Do your own research, make your own decisions. Have consequences from your action. Cheers!

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