draining the brake fluid (850)

meteg · Post by **meteg** » 05 Oct 2010, 14:20

my '95 850 GLT's(A/T) brake pedal feels lacky, I have checked the fluid and I believe this fluid needs to be replaced.. I know that I have to use Dot4 fluid but I havent performed this job in my car before.. can I do it myself or is it better to take it to a shop? I dont have any idea how to drain the fluid..

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 05 Oct 2010, 14:44

You can do it yourself. It helps to have a power bleeder, either one operated by an air compressor or a handheld vacuum pump. You can pick up the handheld pumps at Harbor Freight, Northern Tools, or most any auto parts store for around $30 - $50. Follow the instructions that come with the bleeder you buy. Just make sure that you don't let the reservoir completely drain or you will introduce air into the master cylinder.

The brake fluid should be changed out about every 30K miles or 2-3 years.

It helps to use colored fluid like ATE SuperBlue which you can get from FCP or eeruoparts.com. That way, you can tell when the new fluid has reached each caliper. ATE also has an amber fluid that you can use in between the blue which will provide the same advantage.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 05 Oct 2010, 14:46

Oops, I didn't see you are in Turkey.....but I would think the bleeders are available somewhere there as well.

Post by **charlyW** » 05 Oct 2010, 15:06

Remember you must get all the air out of the system and brake fluid is toxic. Eazi Bleeds they're called in Europe. I think there is a tutorial in the repair database on how to safe brake fluid changing.

Each bleed screw must be openned in sequence bled till all the air is out then closed move onto the next making sure no air is allowed to return

meteg · Post by **meteg** » 08 Oct 2010, 12:18

I thank everyone for the replies.. I will be doing it in a day or two.. the fluid looks bad.. its also discolored..

claymore850 · Post by **claymore850** » 08 Oct 2010, 18:41

The 850 uses ATE DOT4 (amber colour) , the ATE Blues looks better, but is DOT3....

Post by **casey** » 10 Oct 2010, 22:16

switching between the two colors allows you to see that you've flush the lines

Volgrrr · Post by **Volgrrr** » 10 Oct 2010, 23:29

meteg wrote:my '95 850 GLT's(A/T) brake pedal feels lacky, I have checked the fluid and I believe this fluid needs to be replaced.. I know that I have to use Dot4 fluid but I havent performed this job in my car before.. can I do it myself or is it better to take it to a shop? I dont have any idea how to drain the fluid..

I have a small unit which consists of basically a canister that has two plastic hoses attached to it. One hose has a fitting on the end that enables it to be connected to the spare tyre air valve (or any tyre for that matter) and the other hose has a cap fitting that screws onto the master brake cylinder reservoir in place of the normal reservoir cap.

First step is to fill the canister with Dot 4 hydraulic brake fluid, then connect the hose with the cap fitting to the master brake cylinder, and then the other hose to the air valve on the tyre which will apply air pressurise to the brake system.

Get a transparent container to hold the old brake fluid which is to be expelled in the bleeding process.

The next step is to identify which brake caliper is furtherest away from the brake master cylinder, push a piece of suitable sized plastic hose over the brake bleeder nipple at the bottom of the rear of the brake caliper, undo the bleed nipple and release the brake fluid into the transparent container, watching for all air (i.e. bubbles) to be expelled. If the fluid appears to be contaminated then allow the fluid to flow into the container until it becomes clear. After this happens, close the brake bleeder nipple and 'nip' it firmly to ensure it won't work loose through vibration etc. allowing fluid to leak out of the brake system.

The next step is to go to the brake caliper which is the next furtherest away from the brake master cylinder and repeat this procedure, continuing on in the same manner until you are confident the brake lines at all four wheels have been bled to your satisfaction.

It is extremely important that while you are 'bleeding' the brake system, to ensure the container connected between the tyre and master cylinder always has sufficient hydraulic brake fluid in it to prevent air being introduced to the brake system by the tyre.

When you have completed all these steps, disconnect the hose from the tyre (to de-pressurise the brake system) remove the cannister from the brake reservoir and replace the brake reservoir cap. To check your work, depress the brake pedal in the cabin which should be firm. If it isn't, this will most probably mean there is still air trapped (air compresses) somewhere in the brake system. If that is the case, the brake system would have to be 'bled' once again. So obviously, it is better to do it properly the first time.

Finally, make sure the toxic brake fluid doesn't come into contact with your any part of your body i.e. hands, eyes etc. (wear protective equipment gloves), or any paintwork of the vehicle as hydraulic brake fluid is an excellent paint remover.

Just keep in mind it is better to take your time, be careful and thorough the first time so that the job is done properly.

And remember to discard the contaminated, toxic brake fluid in a safe manner.

Good luck and happy bleeding!

Post by **Red-Arrow** » 11 Oct 2010, 04:09

I saw this on Youtube, a guy made a DIY vacuum pump for next to nothing, only thing you need is a jar, some clear poly tubing and a vacuum cleaner.

This works on Any line, be it clutch or brakes. I just can't find anybody that sells clear poly tubing!

zhenya · Post by **zhenya** » 11 Oct 2010, 10:13

claymore850 wrote:The 850 uses ATE DOT4 (amber colour) , the ATE Blues looks better, but is DOT3....

ATE Super Blue is DOT 4.