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99 S80 T6 Flame Trap(pcv)

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
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stratman3
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99 S80 T6 Flame Trap(pcv)

Post by stratman3 »

Is there a thread on S80 T6 flame trap replacement or service, and is there a way to do it without removing the intake manifold?

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

No, sorry- the oil trap (breather box) sits under the intake manifold and you have to typically change that out along with the several lines that run to it and from it to the engine block.
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stratman3
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Post by stratman3 »

Is that a kit I can buy at any autoparts or just specialty volvo parts dealers. I checked Ebay but could not find any, is there another name for it?

vegasjetskier
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Post by vegasjetskier »

It's not really a flame trap - it's an oil separator.

I did mine. You don't need the whole separator. Just buy a seal from the dealer and clean out your old separator with solvent. The seal is a couple bucks. You have to remove the intake manifold, but can save some labor by leaving some hoses connected and just flipping the intake manifold upside-down over the head. I reused my old manifold gasket. If you rip it, you'll have to buy a new one. If I had it to do over, I'd try a cleaner like Seafoam or http://www.auto-rx.com first. If it's a slow leak, I'd leave it and just add some oil periodically. Always run synthetic oil in the future.
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jmallie
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Post by jmallie »

I have a 2002 s80 T6 with 118k. I am not certain what you mean by you would use auto RX first? My question is whether people think using auto RX and running sythetic has kept the trap clean and if I am probably fine letting this slide for another 20k or so.

Some background:
I have done the recomended maintence except for cleaning the oil trap. The motor runs fine and I do not have leaks. I have been reasonably good about oil changes (interval range of 3000 to 7000 miles) and have almost always used high quality synthetic oil. I have used conventional oil probably four times, mostly when I did an auto Rx treatment at about 87k just to try it out.

Although the transmission seems fine (car has rarely been pushed & fluid and filter changes probably help) my concern is that at this mileage the transmission could suddenly die so I a try to pace my investment in non-critical work. I just replaced the control arm bushings and inner tie rods so I would like to avoid significant additional costs for six to twelve months. I am thinking of putting it off until 140k and if the transmission is still fine doing it then. What is the down side (developing leaks?) and signs of a problem?

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Post by jblackburn »

If the PCV system isn't clogged, then you don't need to worry about it. You should have a negative pressure at the oil dipstick/fill cap with the engine running. It should slightly suck in a piece of paper - something like a gas station receipt. If you're getting oil vapor up the dipstick tube or losing a bit of oil, you should clean the system sooner rather than later.

I put mine off for a while on the I5 engine, and started blowing seals. If you blow the RMS between the engine and transmission, that's quite an expensive repair.
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