E Brake question

850_GLT_Owner · Post by **850_GLT_Owner** » 02 Jul 2010, 14:19

Had my ebrake pads replaced a while back and they never adjusted them properly because i needed new rotors as well and they set them way back to make sure it didn't get worn down by the old rotors(had to get back home from school, replaced rotors once i was back home). So now I need to adjust the brake in order to pass inspection. First thing i noticed that was off was when adjusting the star nut, i had to click it down(the other side clicked up) to tighten it. This is the same side that has a grinding sound coming out of it on when driving(sort of grinding on and off). After adjusting the star nut to lock the rotor, backing it off 3-5 clicks, then tightening up the inside ebrake adjustment, pulled the ebrake all the way up(with little resistance) and it had no effect on the ebrake.

Is it possible that A) the brakes were replaced and they didn't line up the star nut to the proper place on the spring(1 oclock on the rotor)? I noticed a picture that Lee put up showing the star nut on the left side of the spring(which i assume would mean clicking up to tighten) or B) The cable disconnected somehow from the ebrake pads themselves. Before they made the repair, the ebrake worked fine. Could the cable have disengaged from where it connects to either the handle inside or the back wheels?

850_GLT_Owner · Post by **850_GLT_Owner** » 02 Jul 2010, 15:42

After some more fiddling, i'm pretty sure the drivers side ebrake cable is either snapped or disconnected(if its possible to be. I'll delve deeper into it soon. The E-brakes don't have to be adjusted at the same time on both tires right? I ask this because i wonder if due to it being too loose on one end and tightened on the other..because there is some resistance when i pull the ebrake and it holds to about 1400rpms if i'm lucky. I thought that since i adjusted one side, tightened the center console screw, then loosened it again to work on the other brake something might have gone out of whack. In the case that it is the cable that either snapped or disconnected, its the one that runs down the drivers side and then splits off near the rear axle to the other end?

I'm pretty sure this reinforces 2 truths i've found about my volvo. A) no place i've paid to work on my car has ever done the job right and B) When i try to make an adjustment/repair myself, i'm always delayed by something(usually rusty bolts, but now i got a breaker bar!)

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 02 Jul 2010, 15:57

I had a similar problem. I adjusted the star bolts and then tried out the ebrake and I felt very little resistance and I could still spin the rear wheels with a bit of effort. I hoped inside and tightened the cable way down and my ebrake works really well now. However, in your case, I'm willing to bet the pads just need to be seated...

Take a look at this -> https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 6225#26225

Post by **holler1** » 02 Jul 2010, 17:49

It's very common to have one or both of the cables rust in place so it doesn't move. I suppose it's also possible it might have broken in the middle due to rust. I suggest you take the wheel and rotor off, pull the e brake handle and check to make sure the wheel-end of the cable is actually moving in and out. In my car, both were rusted up and I had to replace them.

Once you get that cleared up, search for a thread by Ozark Lee on how to adjust the e brakes. They are tricky to get centered properly and adjusted right.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Jul 2010, 21:16

The parking brake shoes need to be re-centered. Adjust the star adjuster until the wheel can no longer be turned by hand. I put two lug bolts in to have something to use a crowbar to push agains and rotate the wheel until it pops free again. Add more tension via the star adjuster and repeat the process until you can no longer pop the wheel loose with the crowbar - about 4 iterations - and then back off the shoes to just touching. You can then take up the slack with the tensioner under the center console.

...Lee

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 02 Jul 2010, 23:33

lol...I already summed up both of your posts in my post and the link to Lee's write up I provided.

850_GLT_Owner · Post by **850_GLT_Owner** » 26 Jul 2010, 10:27

Ozark Lee wrote:The parking brake shoes need to be re-centered. Adjust the star adjuster until the wheel can no longer be turned by hand. I put two lug bolts in to have something to use a crowbar to push agains and rotate the wheel until it pops free again. Add more tension via the star adjuster and repeat the process until you can no longer pop the wheel loose with the crowbar - about 4 iterations - and then back off the shoes to just touching. You can then take up the slack with the tensioner under the center console.

...Lee

Does it matter in what direction I break tension? I was able to break tension in one of my wheels after tightening it, and it was easy to brake it going backwards, but it felt near impossible to move it forward. If that doesn't suggest a problem with the pads themselves, i'm going to keep on working to center them.

Also, it just needs to hold to 1500rpms(i think) to pass inspection. Is that kind of hold possible with just one working ebrake? I'm hoping it will start to hold correctly once I center, but in the event it doesn't and requires a repair(either cable or pads) I'd like to just get it passed and then worry about a proper fix later.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 26 Jul 2010, 20:34

I always center the shoes by rotating the wheel as though the car was moving forward. I don't know if it matters though.

...Lee

GoinFor300KMi · Post by **GoinFor300KMi** » 15 Oct 2010, 05:52

I have read all of the (numerous) discussions on MVS on the topic of checking, repairing and adjusting E brakes. Last night I installed new shoes and did a few other maintenance tasks while I had things open. This was pretty easy since I was armed with all the info from MVS. One thing to mention - there was a huge pile of rust and pad powder on the ABS sensor and the cogs on the hub, I got all that off. Both sides had the same large amount of this powder. My shoes were toast, the friction material had separated from the shoe and rust was everywhere. The sound of the loose friction on the right side had originally led me to think the bearings were shot. If you haven't been in there for a while it would be a good idea to check your E brake shoes and get the crud off the sensor area before the snow flies.

Anyway, my question: The adjuster fitting under the console on my 96 850 looks like Torx. A large size I don't have. Haynes says use an Allen wrench - impossible on my Volvo. No one in all the MVS threads on this topic has said what tool they used to adjust the E brake under the console, except for one that was completely different from mine. Does anyone know what size Torx socket fits the adjuster? I have to go buy one and there's a Noreaster in Massachusetts today. I want to make one trip.
Thanks.

GoinFor300KMi · Post by **GoinFor300KMi** » 15 Oct 2010, 15:34

I figured it out - you need a Torx T-50 socket to adjust the Brakes. I bought a standard socket, and with my 3/8" driver it just fits into the opening.