1999 s80 dying....
1999 s80 dying....
i have a volvo that has been to two mechanics and volvo dealer; problem is, no one can seem to fix my problem. diagnostic is great, no major codes, but the car is dying at braking and coasting. it restarts beautifully, gives no warning prior to dying, you just expect it. i have had the fuel pump replaced ($600) d/t smelling gas, and that jacked up my gas gauge (four visits later, dude still cant fix it), the vacuum hoses, spark plugs, fuel injector cleaned, and various more maintenance type stuff (400), the serpentine belt replaced, the throttle body "blown out" per dealer mechanic (162). i am a female. i know nothing about cars, but i do know that i am tired of paying out the nose for supposed fixes to this problem. it is still dying. now ive had a few suggestions of the idle air control valve?? could it be just unplugged? where do i look for it at? and how much should i expect to pay for this service?? please. i just bought the car to drive back and forth to work. i have a dependable vehicle, so its not like this is my main transport, but i drive back n forth up and down a mountain. it CANT be dying on me....i expected to put some money into the car, but i did NOT expect to not be able to get it fixed...
This car does not have an idle air control valve. It uses the throttle body which is electronic/motor to control idle, cruise control etc.. Could you explain a little more about the throttle body "blown out" .. Does the car have a check engine light?
i dont know. all i know is that volvo put it on the machine, the diagnostic was good, so he cleaned out the throttle body (the terminology i am unfamiliar with and i had a 4 year old with me at the time, but im pretty sure when the dealers rep came to talk to me, she called it blowing out the throttle body, which in further detail, must mean they cleaned the build up?) what i have read online is that apparently this gadget becomes filled with carbon? and it needs cleaning...it cost me almost 200 bucks for them to do whatever it is. and yes, the check engine light is on, but like i said, diagnostic is clear. its on bc the abs is out (1500 replacement) and i have brakes, just not abs, and the security system is out. thats all the diagnostic came up with. i have read that sometimes wires become disengaged whenever under the hood maintenance or repairs are done. does this help?
Hello,
If there is a check engine light there must be a code stored. The ABS would not set a check engine light. It is very difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what the Check engine code is. Just so you know you can purchase a code reader from an auto parts store for $100 or less these days. Its very simple to use, just plug into the OBDII port (under the steering wheel). It will display the code when you put the key into the ignition. You can also disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (in the trunk) and it will reset the check engine light. It would be handy to know what the code is though..
If there is a check engine light there must be a code stored. The ABS would not set a check engine light. It is very difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what the Check engine code is. Just so you know you can purchase a code reader from an auto parts store for $100 or less these days. Its very simple to use, just plug into the OBDII port (under the steering wheel). It will display the code when you put the key into the ignition. You can also disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (in the trunk) and it will reset the check engine light. It would be handy to know what the code is though..
Hello,
If there is a check engine light there must be a code stored. The ABS would not set a check engine light. It is very difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what the Check engine code is. Just so you know you can purchase a code reader from an auto parts store for $100 or less these days. Its very simple to use, just plug into the OBDII port (under the steering wheel). It will display the code when you put the key into the ignition. You can also disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (in the trunk) and it will reset the check engine light. It would be handy to know what the code is though..
If there is a check engine light there must be a code stored. The ABS would not set a check engine light. It is very difficult to tell you what to do without knowing what the Check engine code is. Just so you know you can purchase a code reader from an auto parts store for $100 or less these days. Its very simple to use, just plug into the OBDII port (under the steering wheel). It will display the code when you put the key into the ignition. You can also disconnect the negative terminal of the battery (in the trunk) and it will reset the check engine light. It would be handy to know what the code is though..
well i will try to reset doing the battery unplug. the dealer plus the other two mechanics have all put the car on their computer and it does not throw a code at them. they are all stumped. thats the problem. even a code reader would be useless to me bc they have the code readers and apparently, or rather, according to them, im not throwing any codes regardless of the light being on. volvo was the one that told me the only reason it would remain on was bc of the abs system and the security system both in failure. we did find a spliced wire that is a connector wire to the throttle body (we, as in, my mechanically deficient family and i) and by looking online we have surmised it is the throttle body (or possibly the ETM) but the wire is frayed to the point of no connection, so back to my mechanics it went today to see if that might be the issue. its been a mess.
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