2000 V70 T5 Trans fluid (2001 USA Model)

[T5AUS]

Well, I finally changed my ATF to the Mobil 3309 spec. It took three litres and it's up to the hot on the dipstick after I checked while running and still warm, having just done a 10 Kilometer run. Sadly, it is not cured totally, still slips in lower range, but not as much. I guess it's possible it will improve slowly and of course I will give it another drain and fill just to be sure we get all the other stuff out

[Polarice70]

I have a 2002 V70 XC(P2 like yours) . It had some slipping and hesitation when shifting to Drive from Park or Reverse. I bought the $20 flush kit IPD (plastic hoses and connectors) which connects on the driver's side of the radiator. I used 15 quarts of 3309 to completely flush the trans. The "never have to change" transmission fluid looked like used motor oil with a red tint. What an improvement!!! It drives like a new car. The car only had 65,000 mi. on it. Good Luck w your nice car!

[T5AUS]

OK Polarice, thanks for the info. When you say flush kit, was that a pressure flush or just a drain and refill session. What does IPD stand for.I did my drain and fill through the dip stick hole and bottom drain plug so I guess doing it your way through the hose near the radiator means you get out more of the old fluid. By the way, mine is not an XC just a straight 2001 V70 T5 geartronic, so do we have the same trans, ie the 55-50 SN.
She was behaving much better today no serious surges (SSSHHHH, dont want to jinx it) I have yet to get out on a long drive, should be able to this weekend though, cant wait

[JRL]

RESET THE ADAPTORS and
Do the drive cycle

[mikealder]

With the flush kit you disconnect the pipe from the radiator cooling output and run the engine until a couple of litres have been pumped out, stop the engine and introduce the exact same quantity of fresh oil in to the gearbox of the correct grade fluid, repeat this a number times and on at least one cycle move the gear leaver through all positions.

When you have clean fluid being pumped out into the measuring jug its time to re-secure the gearbox cooling hose and add the final amount of fluid to the gearbox, the trick is replace the same amount of new fluid as gets pumped out with each cycle but don't remove more than two litres at a time.

To change the fluid using this "flushing" technique is far better than a simple drain and refill as it gets far more of the old oil out including whats in the gearbox pipework and torque converter which a simple drain and refill will not do, you will need far more than three litres to do this though.

I only hope the damage done to the gearbox by installing the wrong fluid is minimal, you need to make sure you get as much of the wrong fluid out which I can only see as viable by pumping the old contents out replacing all of it in two litre steps, any of the wrong fluid left in there will only serve to further damage the gearbox - Mike

[T5AUS]

Thanks guys

Jim, I notice going back through older posts of yours on this subject your statement "RESET THE ADAPTORS and
Do the drive cycle" seems to be a well worn phrase so obviously a crucial part of the process in getting these back to some normality. Does this have to be done by a Volvo workshop or is this something I can do at home.


Mike,
With this method, is there a lot of pressure coming from the outlet on the oil cooler or is it just a trickle, dont want to be blasted with hot fluid. I presume you just push in a similar size pipe to take the fluid to your container. Dont supose you have a link to photo's of the pipe I need to remove. On mine it looks like a single pipe which comes up from the front side of the trany with a metal elbow which is attached to the radiator/oil cooler housing (right side looking at it from the front) does this sound right ?

[T5AUS]

I just received my Haynes workshop manual and am rather disappointed. It says it covers V70 2000 to May 2007 models yet I can find no info on my 55-50 SN box It just seems to deal with the AW 40-42

[JRL]

Well, you can disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and MOST of the adaptions will be reset (go to 0) but not 100%
As for the drive cycle I'll have to find it and post it.
Best to have the adaptions cleared by VIDA but the battery disconnect will do 90+% of them.

EDIT This is close enough to the correct drive cycle


1.) Accelerate 0-50 MPH within 30 seconds…IE: VERY SLOWLY, FEATHER FOOT IT
Try not to go over 1800 RPM
2.) Maintain 45-50 MPH for 15 minutes without using cruise control
3.) Park car, turn off A/C, idle for 60 seconds
4.) Accelerate 0-50 MPH within 15-18 seconds
5.) Maintain 45-50 MPH for 10 minutes without using cruise control
6.) Shut off car and allow to cool for 30 minutes before repeating cycle ( in some cases the car requires two cycles)
If it shifts properly after one cycle, it's enough

[T5AUS]

Thanks very much Jim. Because I live on an island which is about five miles long with one rough windy road I am going to have to wait until I get across to the mainland before doing the drive cycles on an open free way, which should be this weekend. I will post the results next week.
UPDATE I disconected the battery today for a couple of hours and when I hitched it back up all faults had gone I then took her for another long run and decided to just keep driving up and down my limited island 5 mile road until I got a flare or bump. Even though it reached its temperature after 15 mins, when I used to get the flares, nothing happened and is was not until about another 20 mins when I finally got a couple of small bumps in the lower range, but no flaring, definitely improving. I think I will give her another fluid change tomorrow (and try and work out how to do it from the cooling pipe) before hitting the mainland at the weekend
Thanks again everyone

[mikealder]

Mike,
With this method, is there a lot of pressure coming from the outlet on the oil cooler or is it just a trickle, dont want to be blasted with hot fluid. I presume you just push in a similar size pipe to take the fluid to your container. Dont supose you have a link to photo's of the pipe I need to remove.

Sorry for the delay in replying but one of the many internet based pages I have saved for the Auto Box flush is This One as it has some pictures and a decent description of whats needed. As for the pressure, the geerbox does pump the fluid out but its not under very high pressure, I wouldn't try changing the fluid after a long run on the Motorway though, do it with the car warm but far from hot to avoid getting burnt - Mike