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850 140k Major Maintenance

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 850 140k Major Maintenance Tutorial
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cn90
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Re: 850 140k Major Maintenance

Post by cn90 »

Ozark Lee wrote:Where did you source the parts?

There are a ton of counterfeit INA tensioner rollers floating around and they will cause the belt to track way off of the center of the pulleys.

...Lee
Hi Lee,

On the issues of counterfeit business, may be I am lucky but I have not encountered any counterfeit parts from "major" makes such as Sachs, Behr, Bosch, NGK etc.

What aftermarket companies have been hit with counterfeit parts?
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

Ozark Lee
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Post by Ozark Lee »

INA and Walbro are two that I know of.

For the INA rollers I am to the point where I pretty much insist that they come out of a Blue Box from an actual dealer. I've been burned twice and I have complained to the vendor but the bad parts still keep coming.

As far as Walbro goes you pretty much pays your money and takes your chances.

You can google - counterfeit walbro - and it will give you tips on spotting a fake but that is hard to do when you are buying mail order.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe

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kmatejka
Posts: 1
Joined: 19 October 2010
Year and Model: 1995 850, 2007 S40
Location: Albany NY

Post by kmatejka »

Hello,
I just did the timing belt on our 1995 850 non-turbo this past weekend. With the help of this thread, I did it in about 5 hours (including the water pump)- so thank you for all of the tips.

We purchased our car at 97k, and I just did the belt change early at 133k because I was hearing a groaning sound coming from inside the timing cover. When the belt was done at 70k, it appears that the tensioner or idler pulleys were not replaced. Maybe it was a dealer because it was a Volvo belt...The idler pulley had some serious binding going on, as the bearings were dried out. It was difficult to turn by hand. This might have turned into something more serious if it had seized. The water pump I took off did not leak and turned smooth, but I feel it is worth the piece of mind to do it every other belt change.

Another tip I would like to add is in regard to the serpentine belt. After trying to wrestle the tensioner with a pair of pliers,
I reached for my craftsman nail puller/claw bar:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G3


The 90 degree short side perfectly into the square and it was easy move around.

Thank you Lee and everyone for all of the insight!

Kurt

justinvolvo70
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Joined: 22 October 2010
Year and Model: 1998 S70
Location: georgia

Post by justinvolvo70 »

This is a good write up, helped me out a bunch. I need to make a comment about #24 though. I found it much easier to put the timing belt on with the flat side facing IN, instead of out. IN meaning, in toward the center of the vehicle. I tried it with the flat side facing out and never could get it. So i flipped it over, with the teeth facing out, away from the engine, and it fell right into place. Not saying it cant be done the other way, but thats just what I encountered.

ronleroux
Posts: 9
Joined: 5 June 2010
Year and Model: s70 1998
Location: southeast

Post by ronleroux »

this write up was great for me and made the job much easier. the interesting thing i found today while i was looking for the mark on the crank gear, was i found 2 small "punches" on the top of each tooth, marking the TDC, which was in the center. i was looking for a notch and finally saw the punches. i stuck a screwdriver in # 1 to make sure it was the TDC. you really have to look for the marks. i have a 1998 s70 and just wanted to mention that to anyone that may be changing their timing belt. i would have taken a picture but the battery was low.. thanks again for all the great write-ups . 8)

JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

Re "finessing" the timing belt between the motor mount and the accessory belt pulley: some slip right through there, some don't. Why? On the '93 I drive (160k), I could not get the belt through that space. Another poster on this site said the same thing. But on my study car, also a '93 (212k), the space is about a 1/4 inch and the belt slips right through. After cleaning some grease off the motor mount I think I found the reason. The mount on the 212k car appears to have a sticker on it that suggests it might have been replaced. So my theory is the mount squashes over time and if it just squashes an 1/8 of inch or so, the belt won't slip through there—finesse or curse tho you may.
What do you all think?

zanzabar
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Post by zanzabar »

JimBee, my belt fit through that space fairly easily and my mount appeared to have been replaced at some point in the (relatively) recent past on this car so I'll +1 on your theory.

I'm glad to finally have this job done. The major hangups I ran into on this job were a result of not being able to line up the cam/crank marks very easily. On the cam pulleys - in pictures I've seen online - when lined up the little scratch-marks appear to be on the inner portions of a 'tooth' on each pulley. In other words, the mark on the exhaust cam sprocket was located on the tooth-edge towards the front of the car, while on the intake cam sprocket the mark was on the tooth-edge towards the rear. But on my car the intake cam mark was towards the front of the car, so when It was all lined up the mark appeared to be quite a bit forward of where the alignment notch on the cover wanted it to be. In the end I marked the belt and the cam pulleys and transferred the marks to the new belt. The crank pulley mark was near impossible to see, being reduced to a microscopic nick on the interior edge of a furrow...not even sure if that was the real mark. But in the end I marked the position of where everything was when I took the old belt of and made sure to put the new belt on in the same position.

This is a very straightforward job, except for the lack of clearance for some of the roller nuts, etc. Certainly much easier than the VW TDI timing belt job that I'm used to doing.
VW TDI refugee
LeMons racer ('84 245)
1994 855 (sold)
2007 V70 2.5T daily driver

davis911s
Posts: 82
Joined: 10 October 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 Wagon Man
Location: Canada

Post by davis911s »

Just did the complete job this afternoon. Hardest part I found to get was the torx45. It was TIGHT and it took two of us to smack it to get it to budge :roll:

I am scared I have a leak now though. I am not sure if it was just residue from the fluid when I took the pump off or if something is leaking. I have cleaned it all off and will drive it in the daylight to see. When we ran it after assembly the pump and area all around it was dry just noticed a bit afterwards on bottom of engine and around axle assy.

I am Praying it is not leaking!

zanzabar
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Post by zanzabar »

I would have found it useful to have a closer view of the cam and crank timing marks so I had a better idea what I was looking for. Anyone have time/skills to get a good pic of that or perhaps zoom in on the pics posted by confused-al in this post?: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 62#p157862
VW TDI refugee
LeMons racer ('84 245)
1994 855 (sold)
2007 V70 2.5T daily driver

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

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