How to end Charging issues permanently

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 15 Nov 2010, 12:02

Walked out this morning and the car started but sounded like crap. a misfire of sorts. Turned it off then back on and i couldn't get it started at all. Went to class then came back and it started ok but was still rough and pushing out a lot of smoke. i jiggled all the spark plug wires and then it ran correctly. However this battery thing is getting very old.

I went to advanced auto and got everything tested.
Results were as follows.
Battery:
Voltage : 12.16V
Measured 615 CCA
Rated 590 CCA

Starter test
Voltage 11.07v
Amps 0.2A
Time 5.28s

"Starter amp draw is low with ok starter voltage. check starter circut for loose, worn corroded wiring"

Charging System Test:
"No Problems"
No Load = 13.78V
Loaded = 13.80V

"charging system output test normal"

The alternator is 2 years old it was a refurb volvo 100amp one.

I simply can not find out what is wrong under there. there is potential of the battery cables being corroded, the battery really being no good despite saying it just needs a charge (which i have done before) or that the alternator really is not operating at full capacity and thats where my problems are.

My Own readings with a multi meter showed the battery at 13.8V when running and then at 12.5 when off. however that 12.5 jumped almost immediately to 12.1 which is what the battery test showed.

Post by **jblackburn** » 15 Nov 2010, 12:26

If your battery is older than 5 years, replace it. 12.1-12.5 is too low (it should hold 12.8 fully charged), and now that it's getting colder, it's unable to hold a charge.

Your alternator is producing the correct voltage.

Pull off the lid to the fusebox and look at the connection to the positive battery cable there. If it's corroded at that end, I'd replace the cable as well.

Post by **JDS60R** » 15 Nov 2010, 13:08

Do you know the amp output for the alternator. They should have tested that as well.

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 15 Nov 2010, 14:25

the battery is just over 1 year old. and im thinking of spending the 30$ and upgrading to a Volvo OEM battery

JDR60
Ill check there at the fuse box and the charge system test goes as follows
No load -.04A Loaded -0.4A

Whats the best way to test the amperage from it without removing it?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 15 Nov 2010, 15:37

I wouldn't spend the money and upgrade the battery if it's only a year old- playing with the spark plug wires caused it to run correctly- therein lies your problem, if I were a guessing man. When was the last time you change them?

Post by **JDS60R** » 15 Nov 2010, 16:25

The AutoZone or Advance auto guys have the tester with an Amp Clamp that goes over the line from the battery to the alternator. They can test the amp output of the alternator by putting the battery under load and then testing the alternator output.

At max load you should see close to the 100 amps the alternator is rated to produce. The voltage can be used as a relative measure but an accurate amp output test is always best.

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 15 Nov 2010, 17:46

I don't think they did the test correctly for the alternator previous times i've had it done you sit and rev the engine up to like 2000 rpm and let it run down etc and have the machine check it then this didnt occur on this trip

as for the spark plugs. The wires plugs and cap / rotor are less than a year old. im not sure why they decided to freak out on me.

Plugs: OEM Volvo Yttrium plugs
Wires: The pretty Blue Ipd Silicone ones
Cap/Rotor: Genuine Bosch.

Another side note is that i will go somewhere else tomorrow to test the amperage, i always feel like im bothering the local people at advanced

Post by **Pauloil** » 15 Nov 2010, 19:55

you need to search voltage drop test on this site and test your cables
volvo specifies the cables including neg grounds are tested under load with lights ,rear defroster and fan on high at 2000K.
the voltage drop should be less than 0.2v. essentially you are asking how much voltage is not able to get througth the cable

http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 16 Nov 2010, 09:16

This is the graph from the starter test. it starts at just under 12V and drops to 8.2 then levels at about 9V

Retired MVS Contributor · Post by **Retired MVS Contributor** » 16 Nov 2010, 12:22

You need to find out if your battery cables are any good...Even though the connections on the battery posts look good, there can be corrosion between the cable's clamp on-end at the battery and the battery post itself...They should be shiny, if not, shine them up...The best way to test it is with an analog multimeter connected to each end of the cable...YES, THE ENDS OF THE SAME CABLE!!!...

If that cable is defective and is causing a drop in voltage, the voltmenter will read the difference between the battery voltage and the voltage that is actually reaching the starter whan you crank it...For instance, if the battery voltage is 12.5 volts, but only 8 volts is reaching the starter, the voltmeter will read 4.5 volts...Don't connect the meter leads to the terminal lugs on the ends of the cable, connect it to the stud on the starter that the cable connects to...At the battery end connect it to the CENTER of the battery post using an ice-pick or small screw driver with the meter wire clipped to it...Test the negative cable the same way...I'll wager you will find a bad cable...

BTW, with the readings you got, your alternator is good...The clamp-on amp probe is an excellent way, but it will only measure the actuall current (AMP) draw so you need to switch on EVERYTHING, lights, defrosters, heater motor, etc...