P80 PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder (-1998)
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PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
Re: PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
Hey I just did the PCV job today with the same kit from FCP, and everything went great. Just a question though, in the kit there were two small hoses that I didn't end up using. One is a hard plastic line in a bag, and the other is rubber or silicone (it's quite flexible) and has a braided sheath on it. What are these for? Did I miss something?
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
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I believe you may have the two hoses here at the bottom of the box. If you re-used them from the old oil separator, they're probably OK, but I changed all of mine.

Here's what FCP shows in their kit:

Here's what FCP shows in their kit:

'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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GoinFor300KMi
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 26 October 2009
- Year and Model: 1996 Volvo 850 N/A
- Location: Massachusetts
xero890 is referring to different hoses - I recently bought the FCP kit and mine had the same two hoses he has described. The thin plastic one I put in a box of stuff I keep that might come in handy some day. The thin rubber or silicone tube with braided exterior is also in the same place, I used some of it to reengineer my vacuum connections. I didn't care for the integrated vacuum/intake tube assembly that was in the kit, it was too difficult to connect to the attachment on the top of the intake manifold and I was afraid it could pop off someday. I Duplicated the original setup. FCP told me that the kits are generalized for a variety of models/years, so you might end up with an extra piece. It's cheaper than making a hundred different kits.
I'm in the middle of this job on a 94 850 Sed...NON-Turbo. It seem to me i'st a bit more difficult on this model vs. a Turbo. I absolutely could not get to the lower left side bold w/o removing the fuel rail. I really didn't want to do this but it ended up being not very difficult and got that fourth lower bolt out MUCH quicker. Another big problem I had was that damn EGR valve which is mounted on the bottom of the intake on the right side. It has a copper 3/8th" tube with a pressure fitting going into the EGR on the bottom. Getting this disconnected was a BEAR! I ended up having to use heat to get the tube and fitting out. BUT, only after I disconnected everything connected to the manifold (and I mean everything). With this EGR tube the only thing left holding the manifold in, and after many attempts at beating it off (kind of gently though), I resorted to heat which freed it and then I could totally removed the manifold. I have read a ton of writeups on this job before starting it but have not come across any that mention this EGR connection. Just figured I would add my experience in case someone else runs across this EGR situation. A Turbo apparently does not have an EGR in the same place. Over and out!
Rsavin
Rsavin
I'm half way through PCV job on a '95 Turbo Sedan. It does have an EGR.
It did stump me a bit as none of the write-ups had one. I used an adjustable wrench to get the compression fitting loose. But it still wouldn't disconnect. I started searching the site and found a post that said pull, HARD! And I did and it came loose.
Anyone know if the threads need something like teflon tape when going back together? It looked like there was something on the threads.
It did stump me a bit as none of the write-ups had one. I used an adjustable wrench to get the compression fitting loose. But it still wouldn't disconnect. I started searching the site and found a post that said pull, HARD! And I did and it came loose.
Anyone know if the threads need something like teflon tape when going back together? It looked like there was something on the threads.
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volvomileage
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i did my pcv last summer , thanks to the help over here, i used oem parts made shure all was done by the book. however i have the dipstick smoking like a train, i cleaned up and changed the flame trap, changed the small vaccum hose thats on the flame trap housing and no change, when i rehauled the pcv i made shure the two holes in the block were obtruction free, it c ant be that the system is full , i use synthetic oil and barely do 10000 miles per year i am stumped !
any ideas ?
any ideas ?
volvo 850 95 sedan non/turbo 185 k
Just curious, I had a 164 for 20 years - as it got to 300k, It was starting to get a lot of blow by - I removed the valve cover and installed two off road breathers - /drip tanks. MOunted them to the firewall. Both had two small K&N filters on top - I had zero issues will oil leaks after that. Cant we just plug the holes in the case and vent the engine from the top?
99xc70
95 850
93 940
99xc70
95 850
93 940
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
I apologize, I have not looked at this topic in a while.

What happens when you open the throttle a tiny bit? There may be just too much blow-by for the system to handle at idle.i did my pcv last summer , thanks to the help over here, i used oem parts made shure all was done by the book. however i have the dipstick smoking like a train, i cleaned up and changed the flame trap, changed the small vaccum hose thats on the flame trap housing and no change, when i rehauled the pcv i made shure the two holes in the block were obtruction free, it c ant be that the system is full , i use synthetic oil and barely do 10000 miles per year i am stumped !
any ideas ?
Some people have made a supplemental 'catch can' device to help out the existing PCV system. There's something about that earlier in the discussion. But the bottom 2 ports act as oil drains, and when I had a blown hose quite a bit of oil leaked out of there, which makes me think that a lot of oil gets blown around through this system, at least on a turbo car. So...I don't really knowJust curious, I had a 164 for 20 years - as it got to 300k, It was starting to get a lot of blow by - I removed the valve cover and installed two off road breathers - /drip tanks. MOunted them to the firewall. Both had two small K&N filters on top - I had zero issues will oil leaks after that. Cant we just plug the holes in the case and vent the engine from the top?
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Do you have a picture of what the flame trap looks like and it's location? I am assuming that this is where the vacuum comes from. I had so much pressure that I blew out the rear camshaft seal. Go figure.
Jon
Jon
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
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I did that too.
If you have an NA motor ONLY, you have a flame trap. Here is the location: http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php
Your signature above says you have a GLT though, which is a turbo motor. You'll have a PTC instead.
If you have an NA motor ONLY, you have a flame trap. Here is the location: http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ftrap.php
Your signature above says you have a GLT though, which is a turbo motor. You'll have a PTC instead.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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