96' 850 transmission issue, need advice

[rybu0305]

I'm trying to not stick my head in the sand over the PNP switch but I don't think I'm qualified to do the cleaning myself and can't pay to replace it right now.

I am going to do some kind of flush or drain/change this weekend. The car is not having issues right now but I wanted to do the transmission flush anyway since I don't know the history. The next big ticket thing I am saving up for is the timing belt and think I should get that done before the PNP since its history is also unknown. Then maybe I can tackle that if I'm having issues.

I also have my ABS light on but I think cleaning the sensors might fix that. Just need to find the time.

If I do the radiator hose flush what is the best tool for putting the metal clamp back on? And again, anybody know the correct size crush washer to buy from the auto parts store? Do auto parts stores sell the 1/2" clear tubing, who would carry it locally? Maybe a home improvement store? I want to do the flush this weekend so I don't have time to buy the kit from ipd.

Thanks

[jblackburn]

You just need to stretch the clamp slightly to get it off - don't mutilate it. To put it back on, just smash it back together as best you can and fit it over the opening. I used a larger screw clamp from the auto parts store on top of that to hold it on.

You don't need the clear tubing; 6-8 ft of black transmission hose will work just fine, and is cheap from any auto parts store. When it starts coughing out air, just turn the motor off and refill.

On a '96, most of the time it is the ABS module that has gone bad, but cleaning the sensors may or may not help.

The timing belt is certainly a priority since it is over mileage that it needed to be replaced. The tensioner must be changed as well (PLEASE only use an OEM part), and I would advise doing the water pump too since you don't know the history. If you're ordering parts for that, get a Hepu as they still use the metal impellers.

[rybu0305]

Thanks for the tip on the water pump. I'm hoping the non-Dealer Volvo guy around here will let me provide my own parts and just charge labor.

Wish me luck on the flush this weekend.

[erikv11]

Yes, Home Depot etc will have clear tubing. Clear is nice to see what is going on but like he said pretty much any tubing will do.

The crush washer is the same as the one on the oil drain plug but I don't know the size, I have a bunch I ordered a long time ago. It is probably M12, you could buy a couple in the range then take back the one(s) that are the wrong size.

If you go the route of taking off the trans hose, be sure to replace the clip in the same orientation when you put it back together. The side toward the radiator is flared just a little bit.

[rybu0305]

The continuing saga...for me.
Rowing the shifter fixed my last problem and got the arrow to go away.
Car has been driving and shifting fine as far as I can tell.
I still have had the 4th gear incorrect ratio code.
Am I damaging my transmission by continuing to drive with this code?

So I did a drain and fill, removing 3 quarts and adding 3 quarts of Mobil 1. Car seemed fine for a week so this past weekend I did a drain and fill again adding Mobil 1. I have drained a total of 6 quarts and added 6 Quarts of Mobil 1. The second drain and fill was pretty glittery but I figured it was the new fluid cleaning things out???

Driving home from work today I noticed the car downshifting kind of hard which it has NEVER done before. So despite my best efforts and changing out fluid I seem to be having more issues.

Is this the point where I take my car in? Am I damaging the trans. by continuing to drive? Do you think changing out the PNP is going to fix it or is this something else?

Thanks

[Pauloil]

hard shifts are good, I always thought....
you done good things for your tranny and might want to another drain and fill in 500 miles
right now you say the car "Car has been driving and shifting fine as far as I can tell"
the swithes, electrical controls and computers can set codes and cause anxiety
if the car runs well, clear the code and see if comes back.
the PNP repair can wait and gives you time read up on how to do it. you aren't hurting the tranny.

[rybu0305]

Thanks for the input. It ran fine after the first drain and fill and fine after the second one also, which was done on Saturday. But driving home from work today, about a 40 mile commute, I noticed the down shifting being king of jerky. It has been smooth up until now. That is what concerned me.

Basically what I am understanding here is that my tranny should be ok and I can keep driving. Just ry to do another drain and fill soon? I am going to double check the fluid level in the morning and check the tcu? I think I read a thread about reseating it.

I have been burned in my last two vehicles (ford and dodge) by the tranny and am admittedly a little gun shy about it now.

Thanks for the help everyone.