Door pops when opening
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superfing
- Posts: 56
- Joined: 5 April 2010
- Year and Model: 96 volvo 850 Wagon
- Location: Oregon
- Has thanked: 2 times
Door pops when opening
Ive read various subjects on this matter, but short of welding (not doing) I havent gotten a response on how to fix it. I have had the door panel off and undone the pieces inside, they are broken. Where do I get a reliable fix?
96 Volvo 850 wagon
85 Volvo 240 Wagon DL
85 Volvo 240 Wagon DL
I have the same problem with the passenger side door. I was able to tighten the bolts up a bit that allowed for less flex, but if you over tighten, you can snap it off. I'm just going to live with it for now.
'94 855T Wagon (120K)= Boost and a booster seat all in one.
Stage 0 in progress...
Stage 0 in progress...
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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Are you saying the screw mounts where it bolts to the frame of the car are broken, or the pieces of the door check itself are broken?
If it's just the door check, replace it with a new one and be done with it - very easy fix. Don't use a crap aftermarket one; I had one break within a few weeks of installing it.
If it's just the door check, replace it with a new one and be done with it - very easy fix. Don't use a crap aftermarket one; I had one break within a few weeks of installing it.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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VolvoTurbo850
- Posts: 405
- Joined: 26 April 2010
- Year and Model: 1994 850 (T5)
- Location: Toronto, Canada
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yup the door check/ anti swing arm is broken and could be 3 things
1. as mentioned above the screw mounts are ripped off on the door itself
2. the internal piece inside has come off its rocker is floating about
3. the part that attaches to the frame of the car is broken and might need welding (worst of 3 scenarios to fix)!
1. as mentioned above the screw mounts are ripped off on the door itself
2. the internal piece inside has come off its rocker is floating about
3. the part that attaches to the frame of the car is broken and might need welding (worst of 3 scenarios to fix)!
The Fleet
2001 V70 (NA) 2.5
1999 C70 Conv. Turbo 2.3 HPT
1998 S70 Turbo (T5) SE
1994 850 Turbo (T5)
1980 Corvette (Corvolvo)
Previous Possessions: (4) 240's, (1) 740, (9) 850's, (5) 70 Series
Projects on the go: NONE... Yet!
- erikv11
- Posts: 11800
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This repair can be confusing until you have really checked it out and are used to the terms and the parts. There are some very good write-ups for how to deal with the problem, I would start by reading this thread and then go on to this one.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
If you aren't ready to fix it you can disconnect the check and avoid further destruction.
Unbolt the two bolts connecting it to the door and the one connecting it to the jamb. Now you can push the check into the door cavity and if you turn it 90 degrees, it should stay stuck in there without interfering with the closing of the door. I did this and would have of course removed it but after having already dealt with the destruction of every clip in the hatch from removing the top trim, I felt that I would properly address the door check all at once, when I was ready to replace the trim clips that would break and only remove the panel once. The less you remove the door panels, the better off you will be - and that goes for any make/model car.
Of course, the mount in the jamb promptly fell into the body of the car and I'm hoping I can fish it out when I remove the trim piece behind it. If yours is loose you may want to zip tie it so that it doesn't go away. Welding is the only way to fix this, don't bother with trying to bolt it back in.
So far I'm pretty satisfied with not fixing it as long as I remember to catch the door as it is prone to go out quite a bit further with the check disconnected.
Unbolt the two bolts connecting it to the door and the one connecting it to the jamb. Now you can push the check into the door cavity and if you turn it 90 degrees, it should stay stuck in there without interfering with the closing of the door. I did this and would have of course removed it but after having already dealt with the destruction of every clip in the hatch from removing the top trim, I felt that I would properly address the door check all at once, when I was ready to replace the trim clips that would break and only remove the panel once. The less you remove the door panels, the better off you will be - and that goes for any make/model car.
Of course, the mount in the jamb promptly fell into the body of the car and I'm hoping I can fish it out when I remove the trim piece behind it. If yours is loose you may want to zip tie it so that it doesn't go away. Welding is the only way to fix this, don't bother with trying to bolt it back in.
So far I'm pretty satisfied with not fixing it as long as I remember to catch the door as it is prone to go out quite a bit further with the check disconnected.
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