DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock

Post by **cn90** » 27 Nov 2010, 21:12

DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock Replacement

Car is 1998 Volvo V70 with 106K miles.
- Symptoms: sometimes cannot crank the engine, after wiggling the key a few times, then I can start the engine. It was intermittent, then it became permanent.
- Key can turn to Position I and Position II but not Position III (crank).
- Initially I thought it was the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion to the LEFT of Steering Column), which was replaced but same symptoms! It turned out to be the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key).

The links below are very good DIYs but both of these DIYs mentioned Steering Wheel Removal (not needed IMHO). These are 1999-2000 S70, S80 Ignition Tumbler DIYs:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13514

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ignition_S80.html

---> If you replace the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key), there is NO need to remove the Steering Wheel at all! Read on.

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Parts/Tools:

1. Igntition Switch (Electrical Portion is PN 9447804, $50 at Volvo dealer. Do not use aftermarket part).

2. Ignition Tumbler Assembly (where you insert the key, Volvo PN is 8626325). I bought it for $210 from (ordered Monday and got it by Fedex on Saturday, wow fast service!):
Don Snyder
Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 Direct
Tel. 1-800-679-6124
Fax 615-599-6253
[email protected]

3. Tools:
- Torx set
- “Trim” Hammer (this hammer is used for carpentry trim job) is useful in this tight space
- 1/32” Nail Set
- Flat Screwdriver.

FYI, 1998 and earlier models probably have no anti-theft chip in the key. I connected the Ignition Switch (Electrical Part on the LEFT of Steering Column) to the connector and use a flat screwdriver (in the location labeled “Slot”) to crank and the car starts right up.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-01.JPG (107.64 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

4. Shear Bolts are supplied with new Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly. For those not familiar with Shear Bolts: these are used during assembly at factory, once the head on the Shear Bolt is tightened to a certain torque, the outer head snaps off, leaving a round inner head, making it difficult for thieves to remove. When you buy the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly, the Shear Bolts are supplied with it.

- During re-installation, I simply tightened the Shear Bolts snug without snapping the head off just in case I want to remove them later.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-02.JPG (53.67 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

5. Have a look at the first picture above to be familiar with the setup:
- The LEFT side of the Ignition Assembly is the Electrical Portion of the Ignition: it turns I, II and III (crank).
- The RIGHT side of the Ignition Assembly (where you insert the key) can only be turned with the proper key and has a cable to control so you cannot remove the key if the car is not in Park. The RIGHT side turns the LEFT side via a flat piece of steel, pretty much similar to your lock at home.

Procedures:

1. Disconnect Battery Ground Cable for safety reasons.

2. Use a flat screwdriver to lift off the rubber trim, then lift the Upper Cover close to SW upward (#1), then slide it toward you so it slides out of the hook (#2).
The Lower Cover is secured by three (3) Torx #25 bolts. When removing the Lower Cover, pay attention to the part around the Lighted Ring: tug the Lower Cover outward a bit so it clears the Lighted Ring then remove it.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-03.JPG (88.4 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

3. Remove Turn Signal Stalk and Wiper Stalk: Each Stalk is held by two (2) Torx #25 bolts.

4. Now you can see the Shear Bolt round head. At factory, the force used to tighten the Shear Bolt was not much, so with the Nail Set you can “chisel” it out. Angle the Nail Set in such a way that it angles about 45 degrees and tap it with the “trim” Hammer Counter-Clockwise to remove the Shear Bolt.
This is why you do NOT need to remove the Steering Wheel when replacing the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-04.JPG (94.99 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

5. Use a flat screwdriver to gently disconnect the Connector to the Ignition Switch (left side of Steering Column).
Disconnect the three Torx Bolts holding the Horn/Air Bag Ring (aka "Clockspring").
Once the Shear Bolts are removed, the Cylinder Lock Assembly will fall down, so support it with your knees.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-05.JPG (92.64 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

6. Now disconnect the Lighted Ring connector then remove the Lighted Ring from the Assembly.

7. To remove the Parking Release Cable: squeeze both sides of the tabs and use a flat screwdriver to gently pry it out. But first use a Sharpie to mark the depth of insertion of this Parking Release Cable so you know how much to insert it to the new Assembly. I think the key needs to be in position II to insert this Parking Release Cable.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-06.JPG (72.86 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

8. If you decide to keep your Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion), then remove it using Torx #20 key, then transfer it to the new Ignition Tumbler Assembly. Note there are a large and a small notch so it can only be aligned 1 way.
However, at 100K, I think it is better to replace both the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion) and the Ignition Tumbler Assembly.

9. Re-assembly is straightforward, make sure the notch on the Ignition Tumbler Assembly lines up with the Steering Column hole before you tighten the Shear Bolts. Again, I did not snap the heads of the Shear Bolts, just finger-tight and snug.
Also make sure the Rubbers around the Turn Signal and Wiper Stalks fit properly on the Upper and Lower Covers.

: 1998VolvoV70-Ign-07.JPG (87.6 KiB) Viewed 39996 times

This is all boy and girls, the good news is you don’t have to remove the Steering Wheel if you replace the Ignition Tumbler Assembly!!!

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Nov 2010, 21:18

Awesome write-up as always! Added to the repair database!

Post by **cn90** » 27 Nov 2010, 21:33

jablackburn wrote:Awesome write-up as always! Added to the repair database!

You were right though, there is no need to remove the Steering Wheel (which by itself adds another 30-45 minutes because of the Airbag thingy)!

Post by **FlyingVolvo** » 28 Nov 2010, 07:55

Great write-up!

Do you know if this procedure (even the steering wheel non-removal) would be more or less the same for a 2000 XC? The other write-ups I've seen make this look like a bear of an ordeal...

Post by **cn90** » 28 Nov 2010, 11:03

ecbsykes wrote:Do you know if this procedure (even the steering wheel non-removal) would be more or less the same for a 2000 XC? The other write-ups I've seen make this look like a bear of an ordeal...

I'd think 2000 XC has very similar if not the same setup as 1998 Volvo V70.
It is very easy to find out, simply remove the Upper and Lower Covers and peek in there to see the Shear Bolts.

Just go to a Volvo parts website and enter PN 8626325. And you will see this PN is listed for 1998 through 2004. So I assume the procedure is the same for 2000 XC. If and whenever you replace your Ignition Tumbler Assembly, take a few pics and post them here just in case others need them:

http://www.volvowholesaleparts.com/part ... eid=213784

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Nov 2010, 12:46

Were you able to order one that fit your existing key pattern, or does your car now have 2 keys to it?

They can be matched to your VIN number, but I was curious if you were able to get a matching one from anyone other than a dealer.

Post by **cn90** » 28 Nov 2010, 19:42

I got this key cylinder from Volvo dealer using my VIN number, so it is an exact match. Car came from factory with 3 keys.
When I ordered this key cylinder from Volvo dealer, it came with an extra key, now I have 4 keys!

peacock · Post by **peacock** » 04 Dec 2010, 13:21

On a side note to this topic, my life would be hell with out a trip computer i dont know how you do it!

Post by **cn90** » 09 Dec 2010, 09:42

So I finally have time to dissect the old tumbler. See this thread by "mom":
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=13514

Anyway, removed all the "guillotine", steering lock rectangular metal piece and ended up with only the Assembly (cylinder and rod to drive the Ign Switch).
Cannot turn past position II ---> the damage is INSIDE the tumbler itself, which I have no desire to open up and play with it, so my advice for those with this problem:

1. A new tumbler is $210 from Waltrip Volvo and I think is worth it if you keep the car another 5 years.

2. A used tumbler from ebay is probably not worth it because the 1997 and 1998 tumblers are mostly from cars with 100K+ miles in the junkyard, given its age of 12-13 years.

3. For those with no budget, I guess you can:
- remove the "guillotine" using a flat screw driver and hammer, be careful not to damage the lock rod.
- drill through the tumbler (itself is a sealed device) and remove debris. You will permanently damage the tumbler.
- then hopefully turn this into a "faked lock cylinder": basically insert any key in there to start the car.
Just don't tell anyone you did this ha!

Of course the anti-theft feature is gone but if your car is too old with too many miles, you may not want to spend $210 on the tumbler, then I see nothing wrong with doing this "red-neck engineering" thingy.

Good Luck and have fun!

falconbrother · Post by **falconbrother** » 02 Feb 2011, 20:21

I just did this job on a 2000 V70 and have a couple of possibly helpful suggestions. I was able to "chisel" out the right side sheer bolt but, not the left. On the left side I drilled out the head of the bolt. I dimpled it with a punch and started with a small drill bit. I worked up to a big drill bit. When I had severely damaged the bolt and surrounding metal I tapped it with a hammer and it simply fell apart. This took longer than I anticipated. Screwed to this assembly is the reel that holds the wiring that goes to the air bag etc. behind the steering wheel. The two torx screws on the sides if the reel dont give you much room to work. I used an allen wrench rather than a torx. The screws weren't in very tight so, it wasn't bad. The key chip sensor ring is clipped to the lock cylinder. Look at the new assembly to see how much to lift the clip before pulling this off. The clip can break but, it doesnt need to be lifted very much to slide off.

Taking the assembly apart is 95% of the time. Everything goes back together quickly.

If I had it to do over I wouldnt even try to chisel the left sheer bolt off. I'm right handed and just never could get a good shot at it. The right side seemed to just be easier to work with. If you don't have good drill bits get some. The faster the bits cut through the bolts the quicker you can get done. Put a little grease on the drill bit and that will capture a lot of the metal shavings.

Otherwise, this is a pretty easy job and I 'm sure I saved hundreds of dollars.