Wow, did you just take those photos. I didn't see them as part of any of your posts otherwise I would have saved some time I wouldn't have bothered taking pictures.
Nice job.
oil cooler line replacement
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
PCV System Repair on a Volvo 5-cylinder
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aahmes57
- Posts: 268
- Joined: 15 November 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
- Location: Taylor, Pennsylvania
- Been thanked: 1 time
Re: oil cooler line replacement
1991 740 (saved a life)
1998 S70 Turbo caught fire, very sad day
1995 850 sold
1999 V70 Base daily driver
1998 S70 Turbo caught fire, very sad day
1995 850 sold
1999 V70 Base daily driver
No, they are old. I posted them earlier but probably just as a link to Picasaweb. Some of yours are different, so hopefully others may find the thread useful.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
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2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
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aahmes57
- Posts: 268
- Joined: 15 November 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 GLT
- Location: Taylor, Pennsylvania
- Been thanked: 1 time
Well it was somewhat difficult to get on. First I fitted the lines in so that the connections were close to each other.
I attached the both hoses to the radiator first then attached the oil cooler to the car. ( 40 torx) The O rings on both hoses were already on and were covered with plastic caps so I didn't have to worry about getting them nicked or dirty when I snaked them around to get them in. I definitely would wrap and tape a wrag around them otherwise. In my case I wrestled with what I came to find out later was the speedometer cable. Pay very particular attention to where the hoses go between other stuff to get to where they connect to BEFORE you take it apart. Now with both ends of both hoses attached it was just flexible enough to get the PITA bolt in because by connecting both ends first it allowed the bracket holes to align right on the hole for the bolt. 1/4 " drive 10mm with swivel and long extension. Test drive No leaks
I attached the both hoses to the radiator first then attached the oil cooler to the car. ( 40 torx) The O rings on both hoses were already on and were covered with plastic caps so I didn't have to worry about getting them nicked or dirty when I snaked them around to get them in. I definitely would wrap and tape a wrag around them otherwise. In my case I wrestled with what I came to find out later was the speedometer cable. Pay very particular attention to where the hoses go between other stuff to get to where they connect to BEFORE you take it apart. Now with both ends of both hoses attached it was just flexible enough to get the PITA bolt in because by connecting both ends first it allowed the bracket holes to align right on the hole for the bolt. 1/4 " drive 10mm with swivel and long extension. Test drive No leaks
1991 740 (saved a life)
1998 S70 Turbo caught fire, very sad day
1995 850 sold
1999 V70 Base daily driver
1998 S70 Turbo caught fire, very sad day
1995 850 sold
1999 V70 Base daily driver
Great idea. Nice job!aahmes57 wrote:Now with both ends of both hoses attached it was just flexible enough to get the PITA bolt in because by connecting both ends first it allowed the bracket holes to align right on the hole for the bolt. 1/4 " drive 10mm with swivel and long extension. Test drive No leaks
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
Thank you for posting those great pictures!!
I don't think there's anything as valuable. I'm still unsure how I'll do at this when I get to it. I worried I'll hit a point where I need some crazy tool...like a "flexible extension"...which has been mentioned.
Thanks again.
I don't think there's anything as valuable. I'm still unsure how I'll do at this when I get to it. I worried I'll hit a point where I need some crazy tool...like a "flexible extension"...which has been mentioned.
Thanks again.
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MatDesign84
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 29 April 2007
- Year and Model: 1997,855 T5
- Location: Johnson City, TN
- Contact:
Okay I just finished this job and have a tip that will save a lot of time and effort for everyone. I too was having a touch time getting the torx head bolt off at the thermostat and tried everything. I got to thinking of some old advice from dad for a similar situation and voila it worked. I managed to use a 4mm (may have been 6mm) allen wrench to get it off. I also used this method to get it back on again. I also want to say, yes this was a major pain in the butt!
Currently: 1997, 855 T5 | 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i, 1990 Volvo 240 DL
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn
Previous: 1997, 850 GLT | 1993, 850 GLT | 1988, BMW 325i, 1990 Volvo 240 DL
"That's good to know though in case they let loose again, but I swear if they do, I'll punch something." -jblackburn
First post here...
Thank you for all the info! One of the oil cooling lines was leaking on my 1998 V70. I found this thread and decided to do the work myself after I ordered the upper and lower oil cooling lines from Sweedishautoparts.com. All the great info and pics here made me confident enough to start the work when the parts arrived.... I got the lines out without too much trouble. Just messy because of all the oil gushing out even though I emptied the oil from the engine and removed the oil filter before removing the lines and the thermostat. I cleaned up the thermostat and tried to fit the new lines in. The lower one went in no problem, however the upper Iine didn't. First the o-ring that came with the lower line (black o-ring on photo) was too big. Bigger than the original one (green o-ring on photo) and bigger than the one on the upper line (green too). I tried with one of the original green o-ring, but still didn't fit. It appears that the tip of the lower line going into the thermostat is too long. It is longer than the tip of the line I removed (see photo) and longer than the tip of the upper line. I ordered OES parts (more expensive) from Sweedishautoparts.com. I noticed that the two lines came in two different bags. The upper line (which fits in the thermostat) came in a volvo bag with ''Made in France written on it'' (see photo) and the lower line (which doesn't fit) came in a generic looking bag with ''Dorman products, Made in CHina'' written on it (see photo). I contacted Sweedishautoparts.com explaining the problem with photos to help, and they answered ''We ordered that part directly from Volvo. No idea why it will not fit unless there is a difference in a Volvo for the Canadian market.'' Here's my question to people reading this post... are the tips of the lower and upper oil cooling lines different in length on US volvos? My guess is not, but I just want to confirm. I need my car, but right now I can't get it running because the lower line doesn't fit... If Sweedishautoparts.com can't help me, should I just cut the excess length on the tip of the lower line and use one of the original o-rings? Has anybody had that problem?
Also the removal of the old lines was made easier by the fact that the nut holding the lines to the engine wasn't there... It must have fallen...the lines didn't seem to be moving too much. I'm wondering though if the lines started leaking because of this. Once I get a lower line that fits, I'm planning on simply ziptying the lines to the engine or something... would that be ok? or should I order or find an appropriate nut. Any idea of the nut/thread size?
Thank you!
Thank you for all the info! One of the oil cooling lines was leaking on my 1998 V70. I found this thread and decided to do the work myself after I ordered the upper and lower oil cooling lines from Sweedishautoparts.com. All the great info and pics here made me confident enough to start the work when the parts arrived.... I got the lines out without too much trouble. Just messy because of all the oil gushing out even though I emptied the oil from the engine and removed the oil filter before removing the lines and the thermostat. I cleaned up the thermostat and tried to fit the new lines in. The lower one went in no problem, however the upper Iine didn't. First the o-ring that came with the lower line (black o-ring on photo) was too big. Bigger than the original one (green o-ring on photo) and bigger than the one on the upper line (green too). I tried with one of the original green o-ring, but still didn't fit. It appears that the tip of the lower line going into the thermostat is too long. It is longer than the tip of the line I removed (see photo) and longer than the tip of the upper line. I ordered OES parts (more expensive) from Sweedishautoparts.com. I noticed that the two lines came in two different bags. The upper line (which fits in the thermostat) came in a volvo bag with ''Made in France written on it'' (see photo) and the lower line (which doesn't fit) came in a generic looking bag with ''Dorman products, Made in CHina'' written on it (see photo). I contacted Sweedishautoparts.com explaining the problem with photos to help, and they answered ''We ordered that part directly from Volvo. No idea why it will not fit unless there is a difference in a Volvo for the Canadian market.'' Here's my question to people reading this post... are the tips of the lower and upper oil cooling lines different in length on US volvos? My guess is not, but I just want to confirm. I need my car, but right now I can't get it running because the lower line doesn't fit... If Sweedishautoparts.com can't help me, should I just cut the excess length on the tip of the lower line and use one of the original o-rings? Has anybody had that problem?
Also the removal of the old lines was made easier by the fact that the nut holding the lines to the engine wasn't there... It must have fallen...the lines didn't seem to be moving too much. I'm wondering though if the lines started leaking because of this. Once I get a lower line that fits, I'm planning on simply ziptying the lines to the engine or something... would that be ok? or should I order or find an appropriate nut. Any idea of the nut/thread size?
Thank you!
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nitehawk55
- Posts: 60
- Joined: 7 July 2012
- Year and Model: S70 T5 1998
- Location: Canada
I would not be happy about a part not fitting nor the fact it was made in China , that just seems odd . These guys really should help you out and you shouldn't be trying to do mods to make it fit , if it isn't right they should allow you to return it .
Perhaps you should source the line from a CDN Volvo dealer and see where it was made and if it is correct so it fits . With the differences in the Chinese part I would not be comfortable using it nor would I trust it .
Perhaps you should source the line from a CDN Volvo dealer and see where it was made and if it is correct so it fits . With the differences in the Chinese part I would not be comfortable using it nor would I trust it .
I would try to find a bolt to fit. Is the little flange the bolt goes through missing as well? I'm attaching a picture of the Torx bolt that holds the lines on the thermostat, with a Torx socket in it (T30 I think). This might help find the correct size bolt. If you have a T30 socket, measure the diameter and look for a bolt about the same diameter. Or just remove the thermostat and take it to a parts store and get a bolt to fit. I'm also attaching a picture that shows the flange etc - the Torx bolt is way to the right of this picture. My experience is that removing the thermostat makes it a lot easier to put the lines back on anyway.bcv70 wrote:Also the removal of the old lines was made easier by the fact that the nut holding the lines to the engine wasn't there... It must have fallen...the lines didn't seem to be moving too much. I'm wondering though if the lines started leaking because of this. Once I get a lower line that fits, I'm planning on simply ziptying the lines to the engine or something... would that be ok? or should I order or find an appropriate nut. Any idea of the nut/thread size?
Thank you!
If the lines you bought don't fit, there are some threads on the forum about repairing the old lines. I haven't done it myself, but it doesn't look that difficult.
- Attachments
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- oil cooler thermostat nut IMG_2646.JPG (113.73 KiB) Viewed 3036 times
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- oil cooler thermostat and parts IMG_2626.JPG (130.12 KiB) Viewed 3036 times
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---
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