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Amazingly well documented Odometer Fix

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How to Fix the Odometer on your Volvo 850
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Guest

Post by Guest »

spdykat wrote:For the person who posted as Guest above, re: trying to open your glovebox, there is a really awesome set of instructions on that fix, created and posted by Yeagermeister on another thread entitled "94 850 Glovebox frozen shut"...good luck.
It's reassuring in a weird way to know that mine is not the only 850 with a permanently frozen odometer (164,450) and a permanently locked glovebox. Today I took it to the dealer for the fuel tank recall fix, and one of the mechanics said, hey at least it's still rolling, right? haha, whatever.
Only 113k here, Should get a good price for it *hehe* (more like 125-135k). Yeah, still thinking about tackling the glovebox by the drill-hole method.

Kara

Post by Kara »

matthew1 wrote:Many thanks to Rox for this fine series of photos and text on how to fix an 850s odometer.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/odometer_fix.php <-- big bandwidth

Fantastic. If anyone has comments, please add them here.
It's so nice to know that others are having problems with their odometers. Mine stopped working 3 years ago with 87,000 miles on it.

Thank you for the detailed fix. I'll be asking my husband if he's up for a little project. :D

Thanks!

volvo850_1994
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Post by volvo850_1994 »

Excellent help! Have some pointers. I got the 15 tooth gear from odometers.com. There are two gears in the odometer that can fail. The 15 tooth is most likely to fail while the other one is quite sturdy. Taking off the dashboard requires a Torx-25 and opening the instrument cluster requires a Torx-10. On the instrument cluster only 11 screws need be opened (9 over the edges and 2 above the black ones on the back of the digital clock). Also note that after replacing the face plate back after the repair and before putting the clear cover, the temperature gage should be below zero (mechanical jarring can leave the needle stuck higher than actual). Good Luck!

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Tsquared
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Post by Tsquared »

I purchased the kit from IPD with the step-by-step video. My daughter drives the 850 now and I made her do the maintenance. I sat back and supervised by telling her lefty lucy and righty tighty and provided her with the correct tools.

It took her 1 hour 20 minutes and she also changed out the light bulbs for the cluster and clock. This was her first attempt on any maintenance for the car and we went on to change the rotor, cap and spark plugs.
'11 C30 T5

'96 854 - died an early death with 184K miles. Killed by the front end of an LTD on a suicide mission (T-boned and both cars totaled).

bills '94 850
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Post by bills '94 850 »

Thankyou very much. The job was easily done with your directions.
Bill

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

The repair page has been updated with more images, these from Govil. Thanks Govil!
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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Mike in SC

Post by Mike in SC »

Thanks, Instructions were excellent. My mechanics told me minimum $400 to fix, and they had trouble doing the fix without breaking plastic. Mine went smooth, $50 for both gears from odometergears.com, a little over 2 hrs.

make sure you have a #8 TORX head for the 3 screws that hold odometer onto frame, and #10 TORX for rest of the speedometer screws. Dash cap screws are all #25 TORX. also, only have to remove left and center 2 vent heads to undo dash cap screws.

to remove vent, i used a small hook, pulled straight out from dash so not to break anything. Here is photo:

Mike in SC

Post by Mike in SC »

OK, photo didn't go ... try again

[img=http://img354.imageshack.us/img354/8949/ventandpivotdetail27fv.th.jpg]

also, on our 97 850, instead of a wired connector, it's an edge type connector that has to be pulled away from board to disconnect odometer, and replaced by aligning and gently pushing straight in: photo:

[img=http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9697/elecconn97850odometer0aa.th.jpg]

Thanks again, mike

steveiz

Post by steveiz »

Great descripton.
Where does the signal come from to increment the odometer / trip meter?
Before I pull this, I want to insure that the speed sensor or whatever sensor that is used is not bad.

In my 850, it is both the odometer and trip computer that is not moving. It happened after I did work on multiple other systems, and had the battery removed (front suspension work, cap, rotor, ...). After banging on the dash to attempt to move the gear, I now have a bad bulb. ( I need the number for that also, if anyone has it). sh*t happens.

Thanks all
[email protected]

dd

Post by dd »

Once you get the failed gear out try to locate the broken tooth. Mine was stuck to the motor drive gear and it looked like a dab of oil. If you don't get the tooth out it may get caught and prevent the odometer from working.

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