1990 volvo 740 GL wont start!
Re: 1990 volvo 740 GL wont start!
No I havent.... hmm. This car was suppose to be fixed when I got it!! Car issues are just so frustrating. But I will read the instructions for the fault codes and try and figure it out this weekend. Thank you Bill!
Hello again. I am trying to decide if it is a waste of money to have my car checked by an auto repair place to run a diagnostic test that will check the starter, the parts and electric stuff. Can I check for this all myself or would it be helpful for them to do it and stop randomly replacing parts. Please respond!!!
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billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
Some fault codes don't trigger the CEL.
How mechanically minded are you? Checking parts like the starter motor, alternator and other electrics takes knowledge/experience and test gear. I agree you shouldn't just throw parts at the car because you may spend a lot of money before you hit on the right part.
In the UK we have specialist auto-electrical shops with all the test kit and, usually, someone who knows how to use it. I don't know the position on this in the US.
From your previous posts I assumed that the starter motor was working OK and the problem was, in fact, a non-starting, or hesitant, engine. I have had cars that started after releasing the key and it was usually an ignition problem. If this is the problem you won't solve it by spending money on diagnosing the starter etc.
Bill.
How mechanically minded are you? Checking parts like the starter motor, alternator and other electrics takes knowledge/experience and test gear. I agree you shouldn't just throw parts at the car because you may spend a lot of money before you hit on the right part.
In the UK we have specialist auto-electrical shops with all the test kit and, usually, someone who knows how to use it. I don't know the position on this in the US.
From your previous posts I assumed that the starter motor was working OK and the problem was, in fact, a non-starting, or hesitant, engine. I have had cars that started after releasing the key and it was usually an ignition problem. If this is the problem you won't solve it by spending money on diagnosing the starter etc.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Hi Bill, I went ahead and took it to get a diagnostic test and apparently it is the IAC valve. Thank god I now know what it is so I can replace that. Now I just need to find one that isnt 200 dollars. Once i replace it, I'll give an update. Thank you!
So I gave in and took it for a diagnostic test. I came out to be that the IAC valve needs to be replaced and that is why it is having a difficult time starting and idling properly. After I find a part that isnt over 200 I'll replace it and post my results. Thank you everyone
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billofdurham
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 6507
- Joined: 2 February 2006
- Year and Model: 855, 1995
- Location: Durham, England
- Been thanked: 5 times
They are rather expensive aren't they? However, it may be possible to clean it using a non-residue electrical parts cleaner which you should be able to buy at any car parts store or electrical repair shop.
It is reasonably easy to do as all you need is the correct size spanner, the cleaner and a little patience.
Let your engine cool down, remove the IAC Valve and detach the electrical sensor.
Spray the valve liberally with the electrical parts cleaner. Keep spraying the valve until the fluid runs white, not dirty. Make sure to clean the clip that holds the electricals too. Place the IAC Valve on a towel or cloth and let it drain and dry for at least an hour. Replacing the valve before it is completely dry can cause more problems so leave it as long as possible. Overnight is good.
After the IAC is completely dry, replace it in the engine. Start up the vehicle and let it run for about five to ten minutes to ensure that the engine can adjust the amount of air while it's idling.
Bill.
It is reasonably easy to do as all you need is the correct size spanner, the cleaner and a little patience.
Let your engine cool down, remove the IAC Valve and detach the electrical sensor.
Spray the valve liberally with the electrical parts cleaner. Keep spraying the valve until the fluid runs white, not dirty. Make sure to clean the clip that holds the electricals too. Place the IAC Valve on a towel or cloth and let it drain and dry for at least an hour. Replacing the valve before it is completely dry can cause more problems so leave it as long as possible. Overnight is good.
After the IAC is completely dry, replace it in the engine. Start up the vehicle and let it run for about five to ten minutes to ensure that the engine can adjust the amount of air while it's idling.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
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Whitebrick
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 14 December 2010
- Year and Model: 89 240 Wagon
- Location: Portland, Oregon
Hmm, my post vanished. Jessica, are you in Portland, Oregon? If so, which shop did you take the car to?
I have lots of kid errands Sunday, but if you aren't too far away from me (I'm in the Hollywood area) I could bring you the wrench and carb cleaner you need to clean the IAC and get you started. It's really simple like Bill said. I found electrical cleaner too weak though, I used carb cleaner.
I have lots of kid errands Sunday, but if you aren't too far away from me (I'm in the Hollywood area) I could bring you the wrench and carb cleaner you need to clean the IAC and get you started. It's really simple like Bill said. I found electrical cleaner too weak though, I used carb cleaner.
Hey there! So the final verdict was my IAC valve. I went to a junk yard and bought a used one because since my car is the regina model, it was much more expensive than if it were a bosch. Hopefully some of the things I replaced helped and didnt go to waste! (ie fuel filter, fuel pump, etc.) Anyways, hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes because typically with the volvo, the IAC valve needs to be replaced every decade or so.
Hello whitebrick! For some reason I just saw your message. Sometimes mine get erased as well. I do live in portland, or and took my car to canyon auto repair to do the diagnostic test. I did get a used IAC valve and am glad that I did because comparing the two my old one could blow air through it and whistled! I do appreciate the directions on how to clean the IAC too. It could probably benefit a cleaning but the volvo starts up like a charm and idles much better!
BIll, the IAC valves are very expensive. This is why I didnt get a new one. For my regina it was going to be about 400 dollars, the bosch was about 200. I am just SSOOOOO thrilled that after all this work, time, and money the car is fixed.
Thank you Bill and Whitebrick!! I will clean my IAC valve immedietly. So far that was the easiest and fastest fix. =)
I also found that with the volvo 740 the battery cable was crushed into an L formation causing the plastic to break off and was almost cutting the wires. By zip-tying it closely to the tubes it wasnt being crushed anymore as the engine was running. That would have been another issue.
BIll, the IAC valves are very expensive. This is why I didnt get a new one. For my regina it was going to be about 400 dollars, the bosch was about 200. I am just SSOOOOO thrilled that after all this work, time, and money the car is fixed.
Thank you Bill and Whitebrick!! I will clean my IAC valve immedietly. So far that was the easiest and fastest fix. =)
I also found that with the volvo 740 the battery cable was crushed into an L formation causing the plastic to break off and was almost cutting the wires. By zip-tying it closely to the tubes it wasnt being crushed anymore as the engine was running. That would have been another issue.
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