'96 Ignition key problem

[karltheozy]

By the year 2000 the Australian Government had mandated the inclusion of Key Coding for all cars ( even for the primitive locally made Vehicles ).

Volvo as usual were quick out of the blocks and put this option on the vehicles before it was required either as standard or a low cost option .

Besides that most Volvo's were sold as upper level Corporate Cars where the cost of options was not seen as a problem - -so they were optioned up anyway .

[diyer97]

- - - after all this does anyone know if the Key Chip lockout system can be disabled ??

This is just a ignition kill system-factory installed rather than some after market like those that comes with the after market auto security systems, to prevent anyone without the legitimate key to start the car - like car thief hot-wires to make the car
start. If you can locate the ignition wire (cable) then just follow it you will find some kind of relay(s) where the starter cable is
spliced and connected to two terminals of the relay and you can disable (or remove) it ..and build yourself a simple ignition kill with only one relay. You will need a 12V ignition wire, a ground wire, and a starter cable to connect to this relay so when you turn the ignition key the 12V will go to the relay and activate it and thus complete the starter circuit and power will go to starter and crank the engine...and you can forget about that faulty chip key.

[karltheozy]

Much as I would like to believe that - - - , I can always get the engine to turn over and run about 15 Revolutions - - - ! then the spark dies out completely .

So the System is sophisticated enough to start - - but then a kill system tells the motor not to continue - -

If I then remove the key - - draw a short breath to cover the expletives - -and put the key back in it always starts .

( The car has no hesitation then in running 120 Kms home or to work at any speed up till 140 Km/hr - - no hesitation down to a very quiet smooth Idle - - no misfire or any other difficulties ).

I can have multiple starts in any one day - - but then it will happen again sometime in the next 3 days .

So it seems like a sophisticated system of some kind - - .I will post any solution I find .

Karl

[precopster]

Perhaps we should go back to basics. All sounds a little too incredible.

What tests have you performed to be sure there's no spark?

If there is no spark have you tried cam sensor tests for output levels? Have you tried swapping the cam sensor with one of your "good ones" ??

[Tungus]

My 95 850 (4 spd automatic) had an issue similar to this. After cleaning the PNP and replacing the battery, it persisted.
I eventually ended up replacing the ignition switch. That fixed it.

[pgl001]

Hi down under,

I can confirm what your keymaker says - the car key has a transponder build in that communicates to the ECU via
the antenna ring in the ignition lock. I suggest that you clean the cable connector male and female at the ECU plug.

Cheers from Copenhagen.

[kcodyjr]

This sounds a lot like the pattern of a failing fuel pump. Every 850 I've ever known has eventually done it.

Sometime when it doesn't want to start, try one or several of these:

a) Turn off the radio and blower so you can hear what the car's doing. Flip the ignition key from 0 to II and back repeatedly; you should hear the fuel pump hum for a second or two each time. Then try starting. If this works, it would indicate a failed check valve in the fuel pump assembly. Just replace the assembly.

b) Slam the tailgate good, once, then retry approach A. The passenger rear door is fairly close to the pump as well, also worth a shot. It's also worth having someone crank it while you do the slamming. If successful, his would indicate the pump itself is failing. Again, replace the whole fuel pump assembly.

c) If you're not into the percussive diagnostic approach, there is a Schraeder valve on the fuel rail where you can directly check for fuel pressure. Turn the key off (pressure should remain), wrap a rag around a Philips head screw driver, turn your face the other direction, and depress the valve. If you've got fuel pressure, you'll know it. If not, look around other posts for how to short the relay and try again, if it still fails, pull a pump assembly from the local boneyard.

Note since it runs fine when it does run, you can rule out a fuel filter.

[mrpainter]

Yeah someone else has the same problem. But i dont know what the answer is except take the key out and put it back in again seems to work for us. We have had 2 850s and had the same problem with both. Just lived with it. As a last resort if you exit the car and lock the door with the key, it will always start the next time you try. WHY i dont know.

[RatFace]

Dear Mr. Painter! You might not believe it but your last thoughts on your thoughtful post just might have saved my marriage! Yes, typical of us dumb Volvo owners (just THIS dumb Volvo owner, and most certainly not ALL Volvo owners), I plunged right in to 'sort out' some of the basic items that many 'new' C70 (2004) owners are wont to do: air filter, battery connections, any loose electrical connections, etc., and not giving a second thought to transponders, codes, security devices, etc., until BAM! My wife's new (2004) and beautiful C70 convertible was 'dead in the water'! After I'd just been through the similar function with my son's '97 528i when replacing keys that then needed 'codifying'. She's in Williamsburg for the weekend on this the first weekend of her ownership! What a nice long explanation I'd be in for when she returns, hopefully, tomorrow. Long story short: Your last several words were something like: Well, you can always lock yourself out of the car with YOUR KEY which, and 'why you don't know', it will set everything aright as if nothing had happened! Thanks, old shoe! RatFace!