Hello again,
Just finished replacing the driver's side axle shaft/cv joints, struts, strut mounts and spring seats. I was going to replace the passenger axle but someone, probably the dealership I bought it from had apparently just changed out one side. I want to thank all who posted about the axle change out procedures and note that it was easier than changing the spring seats for me. Thanks to those who posted pictures.
On to my new question. I found that I have an oil leak on the front of the motor. I have not pulled the covers off and done a cleaning to determine the culprit, but it does have 123,000 miles on it. Thus my question, how long do timing belts, tensionors, and water pumps generally last on the 2.5 liter turbos? If I am looking at having to replace one seal I will probably replace them all (save the rear main, I am not a masochist), and if I am going to do that, then a new water pump, tensionors and timing belt will go on too. The leak is not bad for now, so I might live with it for a while before doing the front reseal/timing belt change out.
I appreciate anyones advice on this,
Otto
P.S.-One more question. Posts on front end problems have given me a good idea of what to expect, watch out for and replace, but I have not seen enough to get an idea of when problems start occuring with the rear suspension. Would apprciate comments on that as well.
When to replace the timing belt
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Otto2005s60
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 26 February 2011
- Year and Model: S60 2005
- Location: Dayton Texas
Timing belt interval is at 105k so you are due. As you mentioned change the tensioner and idler as well, they are as likely to fail as the belt itself breaking with age. The water pump is not a high failure item, but while you're in there you might as well put a new one on. In regards to the seals, I generally don't have them changed unless they are leaking. I've never had much problem with the rear suspension on these cars, your struts obviously will be shot at some point if you keep the car long enough and I've had to change an endlink or two on the rear but basically no major issues there that I have found.
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Volvos rock3
- Posts: 84
- Joined: 20 February 2011
- Year and Model: v70xc, 2002
- Location: Danielsville PA
The dealer recommended 80k for the timing belt, the scheduled is 105k, I changed mine at 90k and it was pretty well worn, starting to crack, etc.
1996 850 GLT sdn (deceased)
2002 V70XC 118k
2009 S80 3.2 37k
1998 Chevrolet K1500 84k
1965 Pontiac Lemans convt
2009 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV 2x (work)
2002 V70XC 118k
2009 S80 3.2 37k
1998 Chevrolet K1500 84k
1965 Pontiac Lemans convt
2009 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV 2x (work)
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
105K or SEVEN YEARS
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
I've checked everywhere and both dealer and independent volvo only shop said 100k or 10yrs. With that note I have 13k miles and 11 yrs on my car and belt looks fine no wear marks no discoloration etc. But why take the risk although the engine is not zero interference it can take 2-3 teeth off the alignment it will however bend valves with a belt failure. I also have rear cam seal seepage not sure whats going on in the front seals. I would change the belt its one of those piece of mind deals and if it goes wrong its goes horribly wrong pros outweighs the cons. Independent quoted me 1200 for the job but I'm sure he's way off base as 700 was the labor part and rest parts.
lexluther wrote:I've checked everywhere and both dealer and independent volvo only shop said 100k or 10yrs. With that note I have 13k miles and 11 yrs on my car and belt looks fine no wear marks no discoloration etc. But why take the risk although the engine is not zero interference it can take 2-3 teeth off the alignment it will however bend valves with a belt failure. I also have rear cam seal seepage not sure whats going on in the front seals. I would change the belt its one of those piece of mind deals and if it goes wrong its goes horribly wrong pros outweighs the cons. Independent quoted me 1200 for the job but I'm sure he's way off base as 700 was the labor part and rest parts.
The bearings can go bad and seize,,,or the belt can unravel..
I bought a T-Belt kit [Volvo from FCP, for 115.00,
dealer, 850, no w/p..
, I will check for bearing play, before I replace the W/P, imho..
..john
.2003, V-70,. 2.4T, 101,100K..
.1985, 245T,.sold at 280K....
.1974, 145, sold at 250K....
.1985, 245T,.sold at 280K....
.1974, 145, sold at 250K....
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JRL
- Posts: 9350
- Joined: 22 November 2005
- Year and Model: Several
- Location: 19333
- Been thanked: 16 times
uh yeah!zooplane wrote:i have 97k on an 2003 v70 non turbo... time?
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
2007 V70 2.5T White/Oak 111,000 MILES. Polestar tune, IPD bars, rear spoiler, dark grey Thors, DWS 06, HU850, sub.
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