I am noticing a gas smell after driving my car. There are no leaks when it is sitting, nothing on the ground underneath and no fuel loss. I have no idea what this might be, possibly a leaking filter?????? It seems to be coming from the rear area of the car, but I can't see any wet spots indicating leakage.
Any ideas?
gas smell after driving- no leaks
- jtp
- Posts: 490
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- Year and Model: 99 v70R
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Has any work been done on the car recently?
If you want to see the fuel filter its under the rear passenger side of the car. See a picture at fgp groton or ipd and then look for it and look for wet spots.
Or do you mean REAR of the car like the exhaust. A car running rich (i.e. having too much gas in the exhaust) is usually described as having exhaust that smells like something fishy/rotting, not just straight smelling like gas.
One issue I had with fuel leaks in the front of the car is that the lines going to the plugs are high up in the engine bay so they were briefly leaking when I didnt tighten them well one time and were not creating wet spots on the pavement because there is plenty of engine below them for the gas to sit on.
If you want to see the fuel filter its under the rear passenger side of the car. See a picture at fgp groton or ipd and then look for it and look for wet spots.
Or do you mean REAR of the car like the exhaust. A car running rich (i.e. having too much gas in the exhaust) is usually described as having exhaust that smells like something fishy/rotting, not just straight smelling like gas.
One issue I had with fuel leaks in the front of the car is that the lines going to the plugs are high up in the engine bay so they were briefly leaking when I didnt tighten them well one time and were not creating wet spots on the pavement because there is plenty of engine below them for the gas to sit on.
99 V70R AWD
Almost 155K Miles
Breaking is how I know it’s working
98 S70NA (sold)
95 850 Turbo Wagon (RIP)
Almost 155K Miles
Breaking is how I know it’s working
98 S70NA (sold)
95 850 Turbo Wagon (RIP)
- kcodyjr
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Have your fuel filler cap pressure-tested. When it shuts off, some fuel drains back to the tank, thus displacing some vapor, and it's got to go somewhere. Also, look for the vacuum lines going to the charcoal canister, see if any have fallen off.
Is the CEL on? Crappy mileage maybe? If so, it could well be coming out the tailpipe.
Is the CEL on? Crappy mileage maybe? If so, it could well be coming out the tailpipe.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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jblackburn
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Look for a disconnected or broken EVAP system hose at the charcoal canister.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
Thanks guys.
No recent work done to the car. I will check all the areas you posted.
It is straight gas smell, smells when you get out of the driver door or walk around the car, Only after driving, nothing if the car has been sitting.
Can I test the filler cap myself or do I bring it into a parts store?
Lastly what is the CEL? (Mileage seems ok)
Thanks again
No recent work done to the car. I will check all the areas you posted.
It is straight gas smell, smells when you get out of the driver door or walk around the car, Only after driving, nothing if the car has been sitting.
Can I test the filler cap myself or do I bring it into a parts store?
Lastly what is the CEL? (Mileage seems ok)
Thanks again
- kcodyjr
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Your local parts store can test the cap.
CEL = Check Engine Light, aka MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light
Uncorrected long enough, a leaky gas tank cap will throw a trouble code and turn on the dash light.
CEL = Check Engine Light, aka MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light
Uncorrected long enough, a leaky gas tank cap will throw a trouble code and turn on the dash light.
2012 C70 T5 Platinum, ember black on cranberry leather
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
2006 S60 2.5T AWD, ice white on oak textile
5 others that came and went
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toolmanjsp
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 21 October 2010
- Year and Model: 1994 850
- Location: New Jersey
I had similar issues in my sedan, could never see a leak but sure smelled raw gasoline, particularly after a fill-up.
Finally dropped the tank. I found the small diameter hose (7mm I think) running between a nipple on the top of the tank and the roll-over valve was rotted and wet. This hose eventually goes to the charcoal canister. Probably most of the problem. Fixing it also cured an occasional CEL that was EVAP related.
Second hose is the larger one (about 5/8" ID) that also goes from top of the tank to a nipple on the filler pipe. This is the line that vents the top of the tank back to the filler pipe when filling the tank, and is slightly "U" shaped to go around the fuel pump cap. One end had a small split which was a bit wet. I tried generic hose but the ends are different size, get a new OEM hose.
Haven't had a problem since. About 2.5 hours start to finish and part of that was scrubbing the outside of the tank, cleaning the bottom of the body, and chasing the rust and dirt off of the bolt threads.
Finally dropped the tank. I found the small diameter hose (7mm I think) running between a nipple on the top of the tank and the roll-over valve was rotted and wet. This hose eventually goes to the charcoal canister. Probably most of the problem. Fixing it also cured an occasional CEL that was EVAP related.
Second hose is the larger one (about 5/8" ID) that also goes from top of the tank to a nipple on the filler pipe. This is the line that vents the top of the tank back to the filler pipe when filling the tank, and is slightly "U" shaped to go around the fuel pump cap. One end had a small split which was a bit wet. I tried generic hose but the ends are different size, get a new OEM hose.
Haven't had a problem since. About 2.5 hours start to finish and part of that was scrubbing the outside of the tank, cleaning the bottom of the body, and chasing the rust and dirt off of the bolt threads.
94 850 turbo sedan, teal (we call him "Dash")
95 850 turbo wagon, also teal! (we call her "Dash-ette")
95 850 turbo wagon, also teal! (we call her "Dash-ette")
When you did this fix, did you have use a lift or did you jack/stand the car? I have visible drops of gas dropping and I need to do something ASAP. Really started yesterday with a fill of the tank. Dripping on driver's side, underneath, tank is wet underneath. Getting an OEM part will not be possible until Monday (today is Saturday) so can a NAPA aftermarket work? Thanks in advance.
98 V70 R AWD
98 V70 R AWD
1998 V70 R >267K
2004 XC70 >171K
2004 XC70 >171K
- pkc303
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I backed up on Rhino Ramps to fix mine. I don't think you'll have enough room to work under the car if you don't get it up somehow. Be careful.
It requires Volvo parts to repair it.
It requires Volvo parts to repair it.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
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toolmanjsp
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 21 October 2010
- Year and Model: 1994 850
- Location: New Jersey
Hi Anodyne-
I ran it low until the low fuel warning light came on so there wasn't much fuel left and not much weight. Jacked up the rear to a comfortable height and put it on jack stands.
Steps:
1. Take off access plate to pump - folded the rear seats forward and did it from inside - 3 or 4 nuts, 10mm
2. Disconnect two sets of wires - one for pump, other for level sensor
3. Disconnect fuel pump discharge and return hoses. Note their location in relation to the top of the pump housing (make a diagram, take a cell phone picture or similar) because it is possible to swap the hoses on reassembly and if you do it will pressurize the return line and probably blow the hose off of the fuel regulator and spew gas all over (you can probably guess how I know that...). Hoses have a sleeve on them like an air fitting, just pull up on the sleeve, twist sightly and they should come free without too much problem.
4. Open fuel door and take off filler cap (may want to plug with rag to keep dirt out)
5. Floor jack under tank, just enough pressure to hold it in place.
6. Remove 3 bolts & 2 retaining straps.
7. Lower jack and tank slightly and while under car pull filler pipe from grommet inside filler lid.
8. When all is free, lower away until jack bottoms. Disconnect small vent hose going to roll-over valve.
9. Slide jack out from under tank. Tank will be free to pull from under car. Inspect and replace any bad hoses.
Reinstall is pretty much the same in reverse. Only minor problem is guiding the filler pipe back in place without dislodging the rubber grommet in the hole behind the fuel door.
For PITA factor I'd rate it 4 of 10.
Jeff
I ran it low until the low fuel warning light came on so there wasn't much fuel left and not much weight. Jacked up the rear to a comfortable height and put it on jack stands.
Steps:
1. Take off access plate to pump - folded the rear seats forward and did it from inside - 3 or 4 nuts, 10mm
2. Disconnect two sets of wires - one for pump, other for level sensor
3. Disconnect fuel pump discharge and return hoses. Note their location in relation to the top of the pump housing (make a diagram, take a cell phone picture or similar) because it is possible to swap the hoses on reassembly and if you do it will pressurize the return line and probably blow the hose off of the fuel regulator and spew gas all over (you can probably guess how I know that...). Hoses have a sleeve on them like an air fitting, just pull up on the sleeve, twist sightly and they should come free without too much problem.
4. Open fuel door and take off filler cap (may want to plug with rag to keep dirt out)
5. Floor jack under tank, just enough pressure to hold it in place.
6. Remove 3 bolts & 2 retaining straps.
7. Lower jack and tank slightly and while under car pull filler pipe from grommet inside filler lid.
8. When all is free, lower away until jack bottoms. Disconnect small vent hose going to roll-over valve.
9. Slide jack out from under tank. Tank will be free to pull from under car. Inspect and replace any bad hoses.
Reinstall is pretty much the same in reverse. Only minor problem is guiding the filler pipe back in place without dislodging the rubber grommet in the hole behind the fuel door.
For PITA factor I'd rate it 4 of 10.
Jeff
94 850 turbo sedan, teal (we call him "Dash")
95 850 turbo wagon, also teal! (we call her "Dash-ette")
95 850 turbo wagon, also teal! (we call her "Dash-ette")
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