Getting my V70 back to "0" one slow step at a time.

[TRuck]

Hi all
I am new to the forum & world of volvos (this is my first volvo) though I have been reading on this site for a few months now. I have a "new" '98 V70 (turbo?) with 250k miles that I am now trying to get back to a "0"...dependable ride I can take on 1-3 hour trips.
The short story: I got the car 5 months ago from a friend of my girlfriend that was moving to the west coast. He Wanted $1k for it. I told him I couldn't afford to get it back in shape(a mechanic said it was a minimum of $2,500 to make it dependable). So he made me an offer I couldn't refuse...."take it for free". who could say no to that?? So I bought it for free!....& now the work begins ...just did a tune-up thanks to the directions on here...soooo much easier than i ever imagined.
My next most immediate concern is the timing belt. The only indication of the last belt put on was @90k miles I have been reading the various posts/threads here and at VolvoSpeed to prepare myself. i plan to go ahead and replace the water pump as well, and the serpenine, and all the rollers , and tensioners.
Questions:
1) In ordering parts (I will go with FCP agin...they were lightin' fast with my ingnition kit!) is the difference in quality of parts massively significant? ie...the volvo brand water pump is twice the price of some of others.. "ASIS" just as good? any to avoid?
1a) Should I worry about replacing all those other gaskets/seals ie....cam & so forth...some of the kits have all this in them.? and honestly doing all that in one sitting seems pretty daunting.
2) I read somewhere that the best temperature to change the belt was at around 70 degrees outdoor temp is that true? does the temperature have a huge bearing? I need to do this now, but temps here are in the 30's-50's at best for the next couple weeks.
3) How do I know which type tensioner I have? The sticker on the hood says engine type B5254T.
4) I am unsure of how the "tensioning" process works (how do i get it tight enough by hand?) for the TB and especially the serpentine. Any detailed info or tips on how to do this part of the process for both belts would be greatly appreciated.
5) in one of the posts someone used a cam locking tool....recommended?
6)Shoud I anticipate having to drill/tap out old bolts? on such an unkempt car. (I had to do this with a rotor bolt).
6) am i insane for trying to do this? ..i have no garage & will most likely be on the street. ....the alternative is..the mechanic wants $750-$800 to do the job....which i ain't got.
If I am able to do this, my next step will be the pcv.
thanks thanks thanks...this site is awesome
Truck

[polskamafia mjl]

I am doing the timing belt this summer so I can only answer a few questions.

1) Everything should be Volvo/OEM. You do not want to skimp on anything related to the timing belt.

2) Temperature isn't a factor.

5) Word on the street is that the cam locking tool doesn't help and in fact makes the job harder.

6) No you're not insane; ambitious, but not insane. Just take your time, don't rush anything, and follow the directions. Everything will work out ok. lol

I haven't done the PCV yet, but I do believe it is easier, however the Timing Belt is a much higher priority.

Also, I can't speak for anyone else, but I would really appreciate it if you did you own write up for the TB. That along w/ Lee's write up and the various other threads will help me out a ton. lol

Good luck!

EDIT: Also, welcome to MVS!

[egads]

Here is the writeup I used to do this on my NA V70

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28334

Here is a good one for if you have a turbo

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=28487

But yeah, as above welcome to MVS and have a go at the timing belt first and all OEM parts there is a very good insurance policy against less ideal after market parts giving up and allowing your engine to trash itself.

[jblackburn]

B5254T = light pressure turbo, 190 hp engine.

That timing belt absolutely needs to be replaced as soon as possible. 1998's have two different style tensioners; you will need to find your engine number (it's printed on the timing belt cover sticker, but mine is worn off - or, you can take the top of the cover off and look to see what style you have).

1) Hepu water pumps are just fine. DO NOT buy anything but OEM for the rest of the timing components. You should probably change the cam seals at that mileage - mine are leaking behind the cam gears on mine, and I blew out the ones on the other side a year or so ago.
2) That's for the cars with the variable valve timing - it's easiest to set around 70. Don't worry about it, your model doesn't have VVT.
4) Serpentine's a cinch. Put the belt on (this may require standing on top of your car trying to get it over the pulley for the PS pump ), then tighten the tensioner til it's taut. Timing belt just requires lining up the marks; the tensioner does the rest.
5) Not necessary for a '98.

[Pauloil]

as you plan the job think about getting a 30mm for crank bolt and how will you clean out and then remove the T40 bolt on either the idler or tensioner pulley? I found it useful to undo the rIGHT MOTOR mount and raise the engine a bit to do the work. here's another good post on the belt:

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... hange.html

[TRuck]

Thanks so much guys for all the speedy and useful info.

I took a peek under the TB cover. It looks to be an automatic tensioner. Also, I found what looks to be some green coolant laying about. So will definitely replace the pump (any extra tips on this section of the task are welcome/appreciated).

And i found surface rust on the tensioner, all the pulleys, cam gears...& basically all metal connections at the end of all hoses all over the place (I did notice this prior to posting). There is what i would describe as kind of calcification looking-ness to much of the parts. looks like it hasn't been worked on in a long time (perhaps salt from the roads?). I will try to get a pic, but my computer is acting up at the moment.

...because of this I am worried that the various bolts are not going to come out/will strip do to age and neglect...Especially the torx. Getting in there to extract them (in a worst case scenerio) looks like it would be next to impossible . I plan to begin PB Blasting in advance of the job...any other suggestions are most welcome. I do not have impact tools.

Seals: I can't tell if the crank seal is leaking, but it looks like the cam areas are dry. Think I could get by with not replacing the seals yet? Or if so, maybe just the crank seal? Does it basically just pull out once you get the pulley off?

Trying not to get myself in over my head all in one sitting.

Also, I can't speak for anyone else, but I would really appreciate it if you did you own write up for the TB. That along w/ Lee's write up and the various other threads will help me out a ton. lol

..yes,it may be another week or two until i can get to doing this job... probably at least will be able to tell you what NOT to do ...hahahahahaaaaaa

thanksthanks
T

[Alecw81]

Do the cam seals... it would really really really piss you off if they started to leak at anytime before you were due for another timing belt.

[VolvoTurbo850]

So I ask this question to a lot of people...

What do you want the car for... the occasional long trip? Daily driver for short distances? Learning experience? Drive it till it is dead? Want a car that does not cause additional damage to the environment (oil drips and excess smog)? How long do you intend to keep it?

Your answer will tell you what you need to do:

1. The timing and components including the water pump need to be changed or you wont be able to fulfill any of those options.
2. Ensure your cooling system is working properly
3. Make sure you pass emissions testing and related repairs.
4. Keep your car tuned up and oil changes regularly.
5. Basic maintenance on the belts and hoses and tires and brakes.
6. Use this volvo as a way of learning about your future purchases of volvo's

I find too many people want too much for their car's because they put in too much money into their cars. I would say a car with 250,000 miles is not something which will be a car you keep for life.. but it could be a start of a volvo education.

If you want to fix cars for a hobby your time would warrant spending more time on the car.

[TRuck]

another couple questions as i am about to order parts from FCP...probably a stupid question, but, would it behoove me to replace the serpentine belt tensioner?...is it standard to do that at this point? seems like no, but...what with all the mileage and all?

Replacing seals is still under consideration....though i will probably just go for it (the ones in the front anyway).

Front Crank Seal question: i have read in some posts about this that i have to remove the oil pump? doesn't seem like i should have to. is that referring to the Back crank seal?

What do you want the car for... the occasional long trip? Daily driver for short distances?

...excellent question.
though i know it was probably rehtorical...the answer is: dependable occasional 1-3 hour trip...and little errands around town once a week or so. As of yet mostly move it from one side of the street to the other to avoid parking tkts.

But (i'm sure i don't have to tell any of you's guys) this is how it goes: found out that the timing belt is a big deal if not taken care of, then "while i'm there" the seals, then "oh, might as well replace the hoses"....an so it goes..haha

thanks again for the patience and input
T

[Alecw81]

Believe me, I know what it's like. I meant to replace my rear cam seals over a month ago, but have continued making excuse after excuse... of course the more I looked at it, the more I realized I need to replace my turbo oil seal and gasket, the turbo coolant hoses, the vacuum lines coming off the turbo, intercooler hoses, radiator hoses, expansion tank, expansion tank hoses... I'm sure I'm forgetting something else...